How much paint needed to redo a SWB ? advice too please

So Im thinking of repainting my swb series. The plan so far

Rub down the worst bits and paint over the lot
White roof possibly, green body probably. Hard top has windows so the edges wont take a lot of paint.
This is a diy at home task, so no spraying. Do I use a synthetic enamel ? Which ones for a good finish ?
Will I need a high build primer then flat down prior, or can I get away without that step ?
What are the short cuts and the consequences ?
How much paint to buy ?

There was a good thread on hand painting S3's a few months ago, its somewhere here in this section if you trawl around. Capable of achieving a good finish if you are methodical and careful. Classic landrover paints are sold by Paddocks, including thinners and undercoat. I'm close to changing mine from masai red to classic green. Good luck.

check out the last couple of pages of this thread

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/time-to-overhaul-the-old-girl.257501/page-4

i used about 5 litres on my lightweight a while ago,got the
paint given a big 25 litre tub,it was meant for a steel painting
job that didnt come off,never got to use it all though,but all
things landy related got a few coats of R.A.F blue,chucked
about 10 litres away got sick of it in the end.

If its something you havnt done before your going to need all the help you can get. Unfortunately nobody can teach you to hand coach paint over the tinterweb so make it as easy as you can for yourself.
Synthetic is good to brush but has the habit of surface drying very quickly then running behind the surface film, making it very hard to make good.

The easiest way I have seen it done was by an old boy many years ago on a ford Anglia. He obviously had the correct brushes for starters. Oh and 40 years experience.

If I was to transcribe it to modern terms it would go something like this.
Take two litres of synthetic in chosen colour.
Go to Wilco and buy two litres of exterior oil based undercoat, white for light or grey for dark or mix to get a similar tone.
Bottom the car with wet and dry as with any other paint job then mask everything.
Thin down the undercoat to 'single cream' consistency and paint the car. Its softness makes it easier to wet and dry again and the oils give the paint time to relax and smooth its own brush marks out.
Second coat add 50% colour to the undercoat then wet and dry.
Third coat 90% colour.
Final coat 100%
Each coat was slightly thinner than the last and applied very quickly in all directions then layed off top to bottom. He also used a dry brush to lay off some areas that had slightly heavier paint and risked sagging.
It was a fantastic job when done but he did say it normally took about twenty coats for a half decent finish. Apparently he served his time when they used flat oil paints and varnished for a gloss finish.

It was great to work with him and to pick his brains a bit about mixing paints and the whats whys and everything else. Needless to say everything had a very good reason and made perfect sense.

aye the old boys knew a trick or two,but people these days
want the job doing like,yesterday,patience like that has mostly
been chucked out of the window.good tips though.
regards stan.

It will get a few coats, but not 20.
Slumping is best avoided by thinning the paint a little, might make an extra coat necessary.
Im tending towards getting 5 litres and using the lot, maybe keep a jam-jar or two for touch-ups