How hot is yours?

RRC83 · Feb 23, 2016

My temp gauge is showing some intermittent readings when driving, sometimes it's in the middle and a few minutes later it's near the red zone.
I decided to install a watertemp gauge instead of the clock and put sensors in the top and bottom hose.

After bleeding the system and fully warm the gauge shows close to 100 at the top and 60 ish at the bottom.

Rad, fan, viscous and pump are all new.
Being new to these engines, would petrol quality make these run hotter than normal? I filled up with 95, does it require 98?

Regards,
Rob

Pete-B · Feb 23, 2016

I've got an 82 degrees thermostat in mine and measured with an infra red thermometer pointing at the thermostat housing it is pretty much spot on. My dash temperature gauge reads at the high end of normal but I'm assuming this is down to a poor earth or just an inaccurate gauge.

cooltide · Feb 23, 2016

It doesn't require 98ron unless you have a cr over 10:1 which you won't in an 83 rrc.
Try a new stat, 82deg is correct for your car. Paddocks usually stock them

RRC83 · Feb 23, 2016

Thanks for the quick replies, will try a new stat. Wish I had checked it when I put the sensors in.

Cheers,
Rob

norseman · Feb 24, 2016

I think the fluctuations in temp. readings would be more of a concern to me, as 'stats usually either work or they don't.
Depending on the driving conditions, ie in traffic or at sustained speed, I suspect you have a coolant circulation problem, despite the new components fitted - an air lock possibly?
An '83 engine could have the 9.35cr (check eng. #) so although it should run on happily on 95RON you might have to play with the timing.

cooltide · Feb 24, 2016

Did the 83 model have a coolant bleed on the circuit to the matrix (over o/s rocker)?

RRC83 · Feb 24, 2016

I was about to ask if there is a tried and tested method for bleeding the system. A bleedscrew would be handy.
@cooltide: by matrix, you mean the heatermatrix? O/S is 2468 cyl.bank?
Thanks,
Rob

cooltide · Feb 24, 2016

Yes as you said, on the later models there are 2 metal water pipes from back of water pump over rocker cover to heater matrix. There is a plastic hex bleed screw on one of them. If the coolant is up to temp, the air will be pushed out automatically

RRC83 · Feb 24, 2016

Thanks cooltide.

This is what it looks like. And before anyone asks, I have no idea where that puddle of coolant comes from. All hoses are dry but I'll check again with a cold running engine.
Anyone know what this (hexbolt with pipe) is for?

Thanks,
Rob

cooltide · Feb 24, 2016

Can't make out what I'm looking at in second pic, what type of carbs do you have?. What I described must just be later efi set up. Do you have coolant pipes running under carbs leaking on to valley gasket? Or maybe split hose only sprays when hot and pressurised

RRC83 · Feb 24, 2016

Strombergs carbs.

This is the manifold from a spare engine but I am pretty sure this is what the underside looks like.
The hoses from pump to manifold to matrix are not new, I'll replace them and see if it cures the leak.
If it doesn't, next suspect is that freeze plug.
Cheers,
Rob

cooltide · Feb 24, 2016

I suspect the one bolted to the underside of your manifold has corroded through.

RRC83 · Feb 24, 2016

The pipe or the plug? Either way, the manifold has to come off. Not a job I'm really looking forward to, I removed it from the spare engine and all sorts of crap fell into the valley.
Maybe this time I should clean the top first.

cooltide · Feb 24, 2016

The coolant pipe that is fixed to the underside of the inlet manifold in your picture. They do corrode.

RRC83 · Feb 26, 2016

Don't you just love classic cars. 1.5 hours with the spanners and it looks like this.

On a modern car your lucky if you can change a lightbulb in that amount of time.
Hot running mystery solved, stat is 88 degrees.
Coolant leak mystery also solved.

That pipe clearly can't hold its water.
@cooltide, thanks for steering me in the right direction.
Cheers,
Rob

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