how high should a td5 boost?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
A standard td5 turbo:confused: will make 28 psi ......

where?...maybe on a bench with the wastegate rod completely shortened... which IMO it's not STANDARD anymore, Td5 engine with STANDARD equipment and management(fuel maps) gets 210KPa MAP for Defender and 230 for D2, which(presuming an average ambient pressure 100KPa) means in boost 110KPa/1.1Bar/16psi for Defender, and 130Kpa/1.3Bar/19psi for D2 ...that's what's STANDARD...what you can do with a boost box, turning the wastegate to maximum or other tricks is a different story.

or you confuse the boost with the MAP cos then you get 30psi on Defender and 33 on D2:rolleyes::cool:

*** MAP = manifold absolute pressure
 
Why buy a boost box when you can just use a resistor in the right place . actuator as short as poss full size front mount . silicone hoses egr blank . middle box removed and a custom map by big fish . I will gladly show you it do it if you want
 
i know exactly how to trick any sensor with resistors or what ever.... you better fit an EGT gauge if you do tricks like that, the MAP signal is not linear, is logaritmic that's why they do the boost boxes cos a simple resistor will only reduce the reading and for the ECU will be like a fault code and will affect the fueling.... the Td5 is conceived to work at least 300K miles without engine problems but i dont think it will work so much with such boost
 
Your right it'll never see 300k but I just did it to see how far it could be pushed and I was surprised how tough they are . I wont do it again to this extreme cos the fuel consumption is stupid but its a savage angry thing that makes me smile but its time it went for a more sensible truck for pulling trailers and general farm work . used a 4.75 volt resistor .
 
:confused:... now i'm intrigued, what do you mean by 4.75 volt resistor? ... a resistor is measured in ohm not in V, and by putting a certain resistor on the MAP signal it would lower the input as at a greater boost the ECU to get a lower reading and this way avoid the overboost protection but that would mix up the fueling bad... what i can imagine is ti use a 4.75V zenner diode between the signal and earth which would limit the MAP signal to max 4.75 V no matter what boost it get, and that's a kind of boost box emulator.

either way it's not good for the engine to do such thing and it'll ruin it on a long run
 
Its run like this for 3 years everyday and its been worked hard . we wired it into the yellow and white wire on the ECU plug and put a earth dump on it . you maybe don't approve but it works and hasn't caused any problems on my 90 or the 2 my mate has . my d2 has one of Pete bells boost boxes on and I can't say it seems any different to what I did .
 
hey guys...
after playing a lot with waste-gate, trying to raise the boost (1.1bar only reached) I found out that my car has the Waste-gate solenoid bypassed... Changed the solenoid, connected the pipes to their correct places, now I have OverBoost.
I started to undo the waste-gate actuator, so I figured to have 1.26 bar (maximum what Nanocom shows at a hill) with 8-9 threads on the actuator.

can anyone advise if this pressure is safe enough to drive and have the car more responsible?
btw, standard disco TD5 , auto, 300 000 km on ODO...

and last question, the 1.26 bar with 8-9 threads, are these saying that the turbo needs some works to be done?
 
Read the MAP in inputs fuelling not the calculated boost in instrument mode... the standard overboost limit on untuned Td5 is at 242KPa so that's what LR thought it's safe enough and at std wastegate rod setting of 13 threads left it's supposed to get up to 230
 
hey guys...
after playing a lot with waste-gate, trying to raise the boost (1.1bar only reached) I found out that my car has the Waste-gate solenoid bypassed... Changed the solenoid, connected the pipes to their correct places, now I have OverBoost.
I started to undo the waste-gate actuator, so I figured to have 1.26 bar (maximum what Nanocom shows at a hill) with 8-9 threads on the actuator.

can anyone advise if this pressure is safe enough to drive and have the car more responsible?
btw, standard disco TD5 , auto, 300 000 km on ODO...

and last question, the 1.26 bar with 8-9 threads, are these saying that the turbo needs some works to be done?

I would have to disagree with most people who say 13 threads
13 threads maybe a rough bassline setting from factory or a brand new waste gate diaphragm

little bit off topic considering I work with pressure limiting valves it is very hard to find a spring that has the same tension to another ..even though the rebuild kits come from the same factory this includeds new springs and they all measure the same ..so the valves are adjustable. via a long bolt that either screws on or out for pre load ...iam still yet to be proved wrong finding a valve that has 12 bar and the same thread length

waste gate actuators work the same way apart from they are pre loaded via the length of the rod
springs to become fatigued over time specially when there is heat involved

however when working with turbo boost pressures there are to many factors involved ..engine performance is one of them ...this is why I like to add silly gauges
 
13 threads maybe a rough bassline setting from factory or a brand new waste gate diaphragm
The "standard" setting is considered at 13 threads cos that's how the all the D2 garreth turbos left the factory, that's how my old turbo was and all i've seen at friends who didnt touch them... then i bought a bran' new turbo and it was the same.... then i fitted forge actuator which is different :cool:

+1 for the engine performance thing
 
ok,
I looked the input fueling in Nanocom, and the best I got is:
Ambient | Manifold
pressure | turbo pressure
97.30 kpa | 221,61 kpa
98.36 kpa | 222,21 kpa
97.51 kpa | 221,33 kpa
96,26 kpa | 221,61 kpa
these are being registered as I said before with 8-9 threads on waste-gate actuator
 
Then your's might be a bit low on power, you should have put the related MAF readings too cos if those are low as well it might be a restriction somewhere, ideal is to get around 230 MAP with 550-650 MAF according to load with standard settings
 
ok,
I looked the input fueling in Nanocom, and the best I got is:
Ambient | Manifold
pressure | turbo pressure
97.30 kpa | 221,61 kpa
98.36 kpa | 222,21 kpa
97.51 kpa | 221,33 kpa
96,26 kpa | 221,61 kpa
these are being registered as I said before with 8-9 threads on waste-gate actuator

diagnosing a turbo issue RPMs also come into play as well as engine load
the test I like to use is use the left foot on the foot brake and at the same time try an maintain speed while monitoring boost .... or use the same roads and hill for tests

222 KPA relative pressure = to 17.50242843760284 psi not far from the desired 230
you may be a fany hair out on adjustment (wastegate ) maybe even half a thread

when I deleted my cat I gained 1 psi on my boost gauge ..mine also has over 3K on the clock

is the EGR still active on yours ?
 
do you think I can't go wrong with playing to wastegate 1 or 1,5 threads?
I don't have EGR anymore, and my D2 is EU2, so no cat inside...

regarding MAF, I also own a Defender td5, and also the MAF is dead, but the DEF drives well, the pressure is rising easy to 230kpa, with 11 threads
the only thing to add here, the DEF has BAS Remap
 
Hello guys,
I have a question about a Defender TD5

After blowing up a turbo and almost blowing the engine, we ordered a new turbo, we clean everything and we started the engine.
Everything looks fine but:
1. New turbo has 15threads on wastegate rod.
2. Maximum boost I got in a hill is 212kpa
3. Whilst having the boost 212kpa, Nanocom shows Wastegate Actuator at 25%

Do you thing I should adjust the wastegate rod as previously, to 11-13threads? Btw, I have a remap, bigger intercooler on this car.

And another question, with the old turbo, I was gettting some kind of blue smoke whilst idle.
I was hoping that with the new turbo this will go, but I still have this smoke a little...
 
Back
Top