P38A How does water get here then?

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Or re-plumb with screen wash tube ...
I have considered a re-plumb, but the rubber grommet/boot that takes it through the wheel arch is of a fixed (large) size.
It might be easiest to insert a small section of additional tube behind the C-Pillar capping and a barrel-connector so that you can work on it without it bein as tight as a ruddy bow-string.
I have got to get this fixed because it is ruining the interior carpeting. :)
 
I have considered a re-plumb, but the rubber grommet/boot that takes it through the wheel arch is of a fixed (large) size.
It might be easiest to insert a small section of additional tube behind the C-Pillar capping and a barrel-connector so that you can work on it without it bein as tight as a ruddy bow-string.
I have got to get this fixed because it is ruining the interior carpeting. :)

Cruise control tubing might be better has a variety joints etc ...
 
...And.... what total feckin' moron decided to put that soft rubber joiner through the wheel-arch panel under/alongside the rear inertia-reel mechanism and behind a bracket?
Re-inserting the clear plastic tube is like I imagine it would be to insert a wet and floppy bit of large size macaroni up an angry cat's arse while wearing boxing gloves. :mad::mad::mad::mad:
In the end I had to put a holesaw through the bracket to allow me to gain access and re-insert the pipe. :oops:
I will have to do this all over again when I apply sealant to the joint. :(:(:(
Is that a rural pastime in Essex Dan?.:):eek::D
 
Does it go through a rubber grommet or the steel? Metal on metal wouldn't be good.
The rubber "boot" has a"flange" either side of the wheel arch panel, above the panel and inside the car it is an enlarged CUP into which the clear plastic pipework is inserted.
The clear pipework is 10mm OD until it get to the rubber CUP and at this point it is enlarged/extruded to fit that.
However, it is a really sloppy fit and when I watering can the roof you hear a straw sucking sound and water comes back up out of the cup and runs down the panel and then under the carpets.
Here is a picture of the blighter doing it and soaking the paper-towel I have taped there. That white lump is the inertia reel seat-belt.
So, what's the best sealant to use? Tiger-Seal or CT1? I suspect a firm setting but ultimately removable one would be best.
I am going to remove the seat-belt so that I can get at the ruddy thing.
The amount of car you have to disassemble to do this fix is really disappointing.

20220101_140752.jpg
 
The rubber "boot" has a"flange" either side of the wheel arch panel, above the panel and inside the car it is an enlarged CUP into which the clear plastic pipework is inserted.
The clear pipework is 10mm OD until it get to the rubber CUP and at this point it is enlarged/extruded to fit that.
However, it is a really sloppy fit and when I watering can the roof you hear a straw sucking sound and water comes back up out of the cup and runs down the panel and then under the carpets.
Here is a picture of the blighter doing it and soaking the paper-towel I have taped there. That white lump is the inertia reel seat-belt.
So, what's the best sealant to use? Tiger-Seal or CT1? I suspect a firm setting but ultimately removable one would be best.
I am going to remove the seat-belt so that I can get at the ruddy thing.
The amount of car you have to disassemble to do this fix is really disappointing.

View attachment 255738

I reckon you could find a reducing adapter to fit that, or butcher a plastic funnel to fit. @brianp38dse is the resident plumbing expert. I bet he could think of something. There's always plumber's mate that seals and stays soft. Or get a jubilee clip around it.
 
The rubber "boot" has a"flange" either side of the wheel arch panel, above the panel and inside the car it is an enlarged CUP into which the clear plastic pipework is inserted.
The clear pipework is 10mm OD until it get to the rubber CUP and at this point it is enlarged/extruded to fit that.
However, it is a really sloppy fit and when I watering can the roof you hear a straw sucking sound and water comes back up out of the cup and runs down the panel and then under the carpets.
Here is a picture of the blighter doing it and soaking the paper-towel I have taped there. That white lump is the inertia reel seat-belt.
So, what's the best sealant to use? Tiger-Seal or CT1? I suspect a firm setting but ultimately removable one would be best.
I am going to remove the seat-belt so that I can get at the ruddy thing.
The amount of car you have to disassemble to do this fix is really disappointing.

View attachment 255738
Silicone sealant would do the job, sticks well, is flexible and is reasonably easy to remove.
 
Looking at the bottom bit hows about putt the 10mm id pipe inside a bit if heater hose that should fit better in to the bottom bit part with a jubilee clip and if the 10mm pipe is pushed a long way down inside the hose it will give a bit of room for any shrinkage
 
Get a longer piece of 10mm tubing, and run it from the sunroof all the way down & out the wheel arch ? That way there's no joins to leak.
I do have that option. Some 10mm OD 8mm ID aquarium tubing is on its way as well as some straight barbed-connector joiners. Ordered because I want to be able to cover all bases; first pass will be self-amalgamating tape collar on bottom of the extruded clear pipe and a backfill of silicone. I will test it harshly and then if it fails I will bore the existing cups out and push 10mm tube right through. :D
 
I would avoid using straight internal joiners on the 8mm id tube as it would be more likely to bung up, thats why i was suggesting putting a tube over the existing tubing so making it bigger bore.
as they say bigger is better:D
Good point, I can still use the 10mm tube, but put 12mm OD/10mmID over the joins.
 
I think I've fixed it! (Famous last words).
I removed the clear plastic pipe and with a funnel and a tube I poured 1 pint of water into the rubber boot/grommet.
No splash-back and the water exited out under the car immediately (no downstream blockages). :)
I put a 1/4-inch "shoulder" of self-amalgamating rubber tape on the end of the formed area of the plastic pipe and trimmed the end to make sure the bore of the pipe was unimpeded.
When putting the pipe back into the boot/grommet it was a squeaky fit.
I backfilled the open end of the rubber boot/grommet with sealant and then put a miniature cable tie around the boot/grommet where the new "shoulder" was located.
I will let the sealant set a bit and then try a watering can of water dumped on the roof before I commit to replacing all the trim and risking my freshly dried-out carpets. ;)
 

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I think I've fixed it! (Famous last words).
I removed the clear plastic pipe and with a funnel and a tube I poured 1 pint of water into the rubber boot/grommet.
No splash-back and the water exited out under the car immediately (no downstream blockages). :)
I put a 1/4-inch "shoulder" of self-amalgamating rubber tape on the end of the formed area of the plastic pipe and trimmed the end to make sure the bore of the pipe was unimpeded.
When putting the pipe back into the boot/grommet it was a squeaky fit.
I backfilled the open end of the rubber boot/grommet with sealant and then put a miniature cable tie around the boot/grommet where the new "shoulder" was located.
I will let the sealant set a bit and then try a watering can of water dumped on the roof before I commit to replacing all the trim and risking my freshly dried-out carpets. ;)
Nice one Dan:):)
 
Hope that sorts it Dan:).

Have you got a pic a bit further away I cant visualize where that is thanks:).

J
 
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