How do I get better Light??

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samdaman

Member
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94
Location
N.Ireland
Hi folks,

Im in the process of building my 90 back together again, and the old lights are knackered.

I had been looking at the Trucklite led headlamps, and they make great boasts about improved lighting etc, but has anyone tried them? theyre expensive, but I wondered if they were worth every penny.

Would they be better than a std halogen lamp with a stronger bulb perhaps??

Thanks!! :p
 
I recently put a set of Trucklites in my 110, I chose them as they look reasonably standard.

A great improvement, I had 100/80w bulbs in and these are three times brighter, coupled with less draw they have stopped issues I had with relays, well that's my excuse for buying them!!!

On main beam they are great, so much so I don't bother using my spotlights. Dip is a compromise, double the brightness of standard but is very focused leaving a dim patch right in front of the car, I've got used to it and it doesn't compromise safety but it was very noticeable at first. The focus and tightness of the light pattern is very similar to the active Xenon's on my Audi, so I'm not blinding other road users but can see the sides of the road clearly even with car's coming towards me.

Value for money? For me yes, not cheap at all but a massive improvement, they make the car safer definitely.
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One day i'll work out how to attache pic's and not thumbnails!!!
 

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i fitted a boomslang loom recently- which is just a direct fused feed from battery and a pair of relays. - while i have not driven on the road with them they are noticably brighter and whiter than the standard wiring - using the same sealed beam cans.
 
I made my own cable tree thing with relays. The original + is now making the relays. The new + feed comes directly from my alternator.

Looked first and measures 11,7V at my headlights. Running engine ofcourse, so there is a lot of volts away because the 2 switches (normal light switch and the big handle for high beam). Now I have directly volts from the alternator like 14.2V. In combination with clear glas it's a hugh different.

You can also buy these wiring called Swedish light thing. A store called Landreiziger sell them for about 35 pounds.
 
I made my own cable tree thing with relays. The original + is now making the relays. The new + feed comes directly from my alternator.

Looked first and measures 11,7V at my headlights. Running engine ofcourse, so there is a lot of volts away because the 2 switches (normal light switch and the big handle for high beam). Now I have directly volts from the alternator like 14.2V. In combination with clear glas it's a hugh different.

You can also buy these wiring called Swedish light thing. A store called Landreiziger sell them for about 35 pounds.

sorry do you mean taken from the battery as power from alternator have made one persons relay burn out a few times
 
sorry do you mean taken from the battery as power from alternator have made one persons relay burn out a few times

I don't under stand how that can happen. If you think about it, when the engine is running the alternator is giving out 14+ volts and the same voltage will be at the battery. So burning relays shouldn't happen.:confused:
 
sorry do you mean taken from the battery as power from alternator have made one persons relay burn out a few times

Don't know why that happened, use my wiring already for 2 years and still works fine.... I do have also an relay for high beam.
 
in theory you are right but the battery has the affect of smoothing the power from the alternator. and a old one can break down over a long time so power spikes can happen but if it run though a battery thing will last-longer
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/spot-light-relay-275460.html is the thread about it
j


Doesn't happen with all relays. But as I (and others perhaps ) mentioned in the other thread, relays can be a bit temperamental with voltage fluctuations ( like you can get from an alternator ). They will last longer with the more constant supply from the battery.
 
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