Classic How can I determine how much my RRC was lifted?

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So, just finished fixing some wiring and put the second rear wing on. Got to take some measures as well:

Wheel hub to body above the coil spring:

480 mm, give or take some

Dampers (unloaded car): 600 mm

Thing is I'm not any wiser now...
 
I started thinking. Unfortunately when it comes to Roll Royce, that usually ends expensive...

So, when I drove it, empty and unloaded, the ride was rather hard. So hard that I reduced tyre pressure a little. Now I consider to replace the existing suspension, I want Koni shocks already so I'm not a couple of coils short.

What would be the "best" suspension set-up? The plan is to use it off-road and for camping with the family. So I'd like wheel travel and enough space for 235/85R16 tyres. Camping means it'll be pretty loaded with a roof tent a folding kayak and two one seater for the kids. Plus all the other stuff you take camping...

Any ideas anyone?
 
I'm probably a bit late with this, but as promised 450mm on my '87 RRC V8 … standard LR suspension, renewed (genuine parts) only a few thou. miles ago.
Hope that helps.
 
So probably 1” lift give or take. I was advised with my mk2 RR keep the front a little lower than rear for handling. Ive read about some that put on coils to lift, buy extended front shocks and fit the old front ones to rear save few quid as they are longer? Classics I don’t know exactly but geometry goal is same.
 
The one inch being for a new set-up or what I currently have? I kind of like the look of it right now, but suspect the springs are too hard. Ah, so many questions. But I found out that LRparts.net is selling Land Rover manufacture police specs coils. Costy compared to Britpart, but I won't take chances. Still not decided...
 
hef19898 said:
I started thinking. Unfortunately when it comes to Roll Royce, that usually ends expensive...

So, when I drove it, empty and unloaded, the ride was rather hard. So hard that I reduced tyre pressure a little. Now I consider to replace the existing suspension, I want Koni shocks already so I'm not a couple of coils short.

What would be the "best" suspension set-up? The plan is to use it off-road and for camping with the family. So I'd like wheel travel and enough space for 235/85R16 tyres. Camping means it'll be pretty loaded with a roof tent a folding kayak and two one seater for the kids. Plus all the other stuff you take camping...

Any ideas anyone?
Click to expand...
Police springs

Red and white stripe
 
Kinda like the thought of that! Front and back, I assume right? And that would be standard length brake flexi hoses and shocks I assume?
 
Don't give me ideas, you!

I want to keep it as much original as possible. And since I'm not able to figure out what is actually fitted, and it is old and definitely geared for towing, I'll just go for my own set-up. I'll keep the double shocks in the rear so, first because they are there and I want to keep the history of the car and because it just looks not too bad
 
hef19898 said:
Kinda like the thought of that! Front and back, I assume right? And that would be standard length brake flexi hoses and shocks I assume?
Click to expand...
Yes You don't need to change flex hoses and shocks as the travel remains the same from bump stop to max shock travel
 
Good to know! So my suspension shopping list is:

Red/White Police spec springs front and back, Koni shocks front and back.

Sounds like a plan, one that will push back completion by another two to three weeks. But it's the journey that matters!
 
Yeah, with original I mean stuff you could maybe even fit back in 80s. And it was already worked on quite a bit, don't get me started on wiring...

So let's call it modded in my weird sense of original. ;-)

Regarding the set-up I'm thinking about, would it be feasible? Or would some diesel springs in the front make more sense?

Sorry if I keep asking stupid questions, but I have NO idea about suspension in general let alone to speak about Range Rovers...
 
hef19898 said:
So let's call it modded in my weird sense of original. ;-)
Click to expand...

I’m with you on that one ;)

Diesel springs are generally firmer and longer to accommodate for the extra weight of the doozle. I have seen people fit them to petrol cars to marginally increase height and for durability - whether it works I don’t know, I think it may make your ride a bit stiffer, depends on what you want.
 
Front is fine judging from limited road miles I had so far. The rear is stiff as hell, it was fine when it was loaded with five spare wheels, a camping conversion, 20l full jerry can, the rear seats and a ton of spares... Without the wheels not so much. Which again brings me back to the original question.... I REALLY have to figure out if the front was lifted or not... Don't want to have it sit funny...
 
Something to consider Before you start ordering parts, has yours got a Boge Self Leveling Unit ? and is it working ? this can have a huge impact on the way the rear suspension acts.
 
Many Classic owners here tend to be ‘originality’ owners. Lifting a RR intended to have EAS Is generally not a popular subject here - I know as I am the black sheep of LZ P38 section for this reason. To be honest I don’t even know why the others tolerate me? :confused: My guess is they can see for all my ineptitude I am trying to help for the better of all.

You may be the first to delve into this quest and document what works for the next person that comes along... ;)
 
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