Freelander 1 Houston we have a problem!!!!

Bottom line . . if the 24mm bolt is not tight it will never move the tensioner spring. I'm fairly sure it's a normal CW thread.

You need to tighten the 24mm first, and then tighten up the locknut behind, as per the picture posted by Arctic2.

The assembly looks like the attached pic (from RAVE), so you cannot remove the assembly with the engine in the car

I think the main problem it will be to get that 15 on the back of the tensioner.

pwood999 said:

Bottom line . . if the 24mm bolt is not tight it will never move the tensioner spring. I'm fairly sure it's a normal CW thread.

You need to tighten the 24mm first, and then tighten up the locknut behind, as per the picture posted by Arctic2.

The assembly looks like the attached pic (from RAVE), so you cannot remove the assembly with the engine in the car
View attachment 325838

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Real photo of the pulley tensioner.
1a

1b

All the pulleys freewheels off the car.
1c

Yes it is a pulley wheel which is attached to an arm which is the tensioner spring arm, so you need to tighten the back nut, then the arm will go backwards anticlockwise when you pull towards you on the wheel 24mm bolt.
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Tool i use for the tensioner when changing the belts, these are ground down so they can also be used on the Rover 75 with limited space against the chassis arm.
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15mm aviation spanner is good for getting to the 15mm nut behind the wheel.


Good luck you will get there.

I bought a spanner extender to move the tensioner, and keep it loose. Was awkward to hold it, get the belt on and not get one skin behind the belt. To stop the spanner slipping off a wedge of wood may help.

A 15/16 inch ring spanner is a better fit than 24mm. They are cheap and turn up at junk tool sales. Well worth having an old one handy. You can weld an extension on, or just slip a pipe on it as I do.

WOOOOOOHOOOOOOOO!!!! done!!!!!
I manage to insert a 15 mm curved behind the tensioner and then used my home made 24mm and it tight the tensioner , came out easy breeeeezyyyy.
YOU GUYS ARE JUST AMAZING!!!!
THANK YOU ALL!!!

ONEEEEEEE LAST QUESTION i know you might kill me but...

I dont have the tool to remove the pulley....
i have seen..
using the engine (hey say you shouldnt)
using the impact wrench (they say you shouldnt )
using a belt with a wrench to hold it
What are your thoughts?
and then to tight it again?

By the photo my pulley was getting noisyyyyy

Buy the holding tool. They are less than £20 on eBay

Never use impact wrench on TD4 as you will fracture the cast iron crankshaft.

Tool is the answer. Buy a good one or it bends !!!

Note to self;

andyfreelandy said:

Never use impact wrench on TD4 as you will fracture the cast iron crankshaft

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Dunno about FL2 but BMW M47 is Deffo a NO No !!

Glad you got there ! Be simpler next time !