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Why's that Dopes?
P38A hot start mod
- Thread starter mrtayto
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Not seen you for a bit, you auditioning for Bond again?
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RovyCouple
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Please believe me the glow plugs light comes on when the engine is hot, THERE IS NO FIX FITTED !
How can they come on, only the ECU can do that.! Does it perhaps mean the 'blue' sensor is sending a wrong message the the ECU, if so that could mean the ECU constantly thinks the engine is cold, very bad for fuel consumption. Please someone explain how the glow plug light can possibly come on when there is NO hotfix fitted??!!
How can they come on, only the ECU can do that.! Does it perhaps mean the 'blue' sensor is sending a wrong message the the ECU, if so that could mean the ECU constantly thinks the engine is cold, very bad for fuel consumption. Please someone explain how the glow plug light can possibly come on when there is NO hotfix fitted??!!
RovyCouple
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Further thoughts, the ECU gets info from several sources (runs an Algorithm),
at least two from coolant,
fuel sensor,
crankshaft position sensor,
throttle position sensor,
how , when the engine is hot does it turn the bloody glow plugs on, ? poor sensor (corroded), wire chafing . Until this dilemma is solved, there is little point in setting the FIP timing or adding a 'hotfix' of any kind as it will only add to the confusion in the ECU. (been there done that). No **** Sherlock.
at least two from coolant,
fuel sensor,
crankshaft position sensor,
throttle position sensor,
how , when the engine is hot does it turn the bloody glow plugs on, ? poor sensor (corroded), wire chafing . Until this dilemma is solved, there is little point in setting the FIP timing or adding a 'hotfix' of any kind as it will only add to the confusion in the ECU. (been there done that). No **** Sherlock.
RovyCouple
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Currently thinking change the GREEN sensor in the head, not the BLUE or the BROWN.
It's the GREEN one that sends the info to the ECU. If it's not working properly, it tells the ECU the engine is cold when it's hot, thus possibly the glow plugs on when hot, against the expectation (they are not supposed to come on when engine is hot), this also affects fuel consumption.
So don't blame the FIP, change the GREEN coolant sensor. Set the FIP up properly with a nanocom, and then and only then possibly a 'hotfix'.
It's the GREEN one that sends the info to the ECU. If it's not working properly, it tells the ECU the engine is cold when it's hot, thus possibly the glow plugs on when hot, against the expectation (they are not supposed to come on when engine is hot), this also affects fuel consumption.
So don't blame the FIP, change the GREEN coolant sensor. Set the FIP up properly with a nanocom, and then and only then possibly a 'hotfix'.
RangeRoller dt
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EVU temp sender is cheap enough, would it not throw a code you think.
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That sounds reasonable. I've not got the manual open to check what is what. If it only started doing it after a replacement chip then that's where I would start.
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Can the Coolant temp be read in the nanocom?
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Setting the injection pump with Nanocom is not a good idea. Static timing should be set first of all as directed in RAVE. Modulation has nothing to do with fuel quantity it is a function of point of injection adjustment.
You know we will bu*ger it up..... and then you have to put it right!! you're just making more work for yourself lolNo am leaving things to the happy amatuer experts for a while.
plumbfisher
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Speaking of amateur experts... here I am!
I've recently got a Nanocom and am learning how to use it. Got it primarily to see if I could sort out the difficult hot starting and a slightly rough tickover.
It shows modulation as a percentage (93.5) when hot and idling. I suspect that this is way out from what it should be from reading all the above.
How do I change this? Or (Wammers) should I?
Nanocom reads many values in 'Fuelling', but where can I find what they should be? And then how to adjust them?
Thanks for any help
I've recently got a Nanocom and am learning how to use it. Got it primarily to see if I could sort out the difficult hot starting and a slightly rough tickover.
It shows modulation as a percentage (93.5) when hot and idling. I suspect that this is way out from what it should be from reading all the above.
How do I change this? Or (Wammers) should I?
Nanocom reads many values in 'Fuelling', but where can I find what they should be? And then how to adjust them?
Thanks for any help
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Modulation at 93.5 means the static timing is retarded more than likely due to chain stretch. You cannot adjust fuelling other than the idle fuel to increase or reduce idle speed.Speaking of amateur experts... here I am!
I've recently got a Nanocom and am learning how to use it. Got it primarily to see if I could sort out the difficult hot starting and a slightly rough tickover.
It shows modulation as a percentage (93.5) when hot and idling. I suspect that this is way out from what it should be from reading all the above.
How do I change this? Or (Wammers) should I?
Nanocom reads many values in 'Fuelling', but where can I find what they should be? And then how to adjust them?
Thanks for any help
plumbfisher
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Thanks Wammers. Yup, I suspected chain stretch. So what should I do now? Re-set static timing? Can this be done by slackening the FIP mountings and moving the pump?
Last edited:
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Procedure to set static timing is in RAVE. I would imagine you are very close to stalling on lifting the throttle and seeing the engine management light flick on at times.
RovyCouple
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If ECU thinks engine is cold it increases the tick over rate, if the Green sender/sensor is dodgy and sends false info to ECU, the knock on effects are discrete and difficult to pin point, blaming the FIP is fruitless, fitting a 'hotfix' adds more false info. If the ecu gets correct info the P38 is a dream car.
RovyCouple
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If you want to get a life get a P38.
RovyCouple
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It's useful to note that there are two temperature senders, BROWN to dash and GREEN to ECU, don't let the fact that the dash shows HOT fool you if
the ECU gets the massage the engine is COLD, it will act on the COLD message! Running a car where the control unit thinks the engine is cold all the time is not a good idea.
the ECU gets the massage the engine is COLD, it will act on the COLD message! Running a car where the control unit thinks the engine is cold all the time is not a good idea.
RangeRoller dt
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Change all 3 they are not spensive
Disconnect battery inlet manifold off is pretty much it. If early (metal inlet) you will need 6 gaskets for it
good chance to do IAT same time
@plumbfisher you can adjust the static with dti kit, eventually it will jump a cog or go bang without renewing the chains.
I have seen few get away with jumping a cog and resetting timing, it depends how far they’ve gone?
Welcome back
Disconnect battery inlet manifold off is pretty much it. If early (metal inlet) you will need 6 gaskets for it
good chance to do IAT same time
@plumbfisher you can adjust the static with dti kit, eventually it will jump a cog or go bang without renewing the chains.
I have seen few get away with jumping a cog and resetting timing, it depends how far they’ve gone?
Welcome back
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