Horn and flash problem

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mjr92

Member
Posts
12
Hi all.

I've just bought a series 2a. It's mostly made up of a lot of series 3 bits bulkhead dash etc.

The horn and full beam flash function don't work. I've checked the fuses under the steering wheel.

The horn has no power on the horn end when the stalk is pushed.

Full beam works when the stalk is pushed away but doesn't flash when pulled forwards.

I'm thinking it's the stalk itself that's faulty.

To complicate things it has both series 2 and 3 head lights with the series 2 lights acting as full beam.

Is there any thing else I should check before ordering a new stalk?

Im not great with electrics.

Any help would be appreciated

Mike
 
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Are you sure it's a 2a or is it a S3 with a 2a id and front panel?
Pretty sure our 2a had a live going to the horn which earthed via the column when the button was pressed.
Regardless of that anything could be happening with yours due to previous mods.
Switch is probably quite cheap and confirmation of your vehicle will help others to help you.
 
As Anaconda says above most horns are/were permanent live and the switch provides the earth.

Iirc series 2 has only one fuse, and the series 2a had two fuses, not sure on the series 3.
Single fuse on the s2 protects wipers and horn, and lighting, 30A fuse from memory.

Might pay to post a pic of your dashboard so people can advise as needed.
 
It was definitely a 2a once upon a time. I knew the chap that had it before me and he'd had it the past 40 years. He died and I bought it off his daughter. Not much 2a left now though it has a sherpa engine and series 3 bulkhead and dash and gearbox. I'll try and attach some photos.
 

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Just connected up another stalk. Same issue so it's not that
 

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I don't know about S3 electrics but I presume you have tested the horn actually works?
If you are using a spare 2nd hand switch I guess you need to check that also.
Does the switch carry the main power or is there relays involved and the switch operates through them?
Do you have a test light to check for power.
 
I think on the series three the stalk switch carries the main headlamp current, no relays.
The original switch lasts a decent length of time, but when it fails, owners tend to fit Britpart replacements, and they don't stand up well to the high current.
OK with a couple of decent relays apparently, well, as OK as anything Britpart ever is.
 
Thanks for all your help so far.

I tested the horn. Didn't work. It only had 1 wire on it red and white. I swapped the horn for one I know is good and added a live straight to the winch live next to it. Still nothing.

I fiddled about a bit more and discovered that if I hold the horn button down on the stalk and flash the high beam the horn sounds!?.
This makes me think the switch in fine and there's just a crossed wire somewhere.

Also there's a random thick brown wire behind the fuse box, everything still seems to work so I'm not sure if I've knocked it off where ever it's supposed to go or it's just something obsolete.

Pics attached

Mike
 

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Large wire like the one at your dash is usual a permanent live, could have been to a to a glow plug ignition switch [ bulkhead from a diesel model?] Recon I see a choke in your pic so petrol?
 
Large wire like the one at your dash is usual a permanent live, could have been to a to a glow plug ignition switch [ bulkhead from a diesel model?] Recon I see a choke in your pic so petrol?
You're right. It is a permanent live. It was a 2.25 petrol and is now a 15J. From a sherpa van. I've connected it to fuse 1 and the flash works as it should but no horn. Disconnect it, hold the horn in and flash and the horn sounds.

It's got to be a wire in the wrong place. Probably something obvious but I'm not smart enough to see it.

Mike
 
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Ok problem solved. Everything's working fine now.

Thick brown wire to fuse 1 and swapped the wire from live to neutral on the horn.

Really simple in hindsight. Feel stupid for taking all day to figure it out.

Thank you all for your help its much appreciated.

Mike
 
Ok problem solved. Everything's working fine now.

Thick brown wire to fuse 1 and swapped the wire from live to neutral on the horn.

Really simple in hindsight. Feel stupid for taking all day to figure it out.

Thank you all for your help its much appreciated.

Mike
Tbh most electrical faults are like that, spend ages working out what is wrong, and 5 minutes actually fixing it.
 
For vehicles with such basic electrics they have a lot of gremlins. You won't believe how much time I spend on the 110 jiggling wires around looking for bad bullet connectors.

Have both Landies fully working now except for the series not wanting to shut off intermittently. So it's about time to talk the wife into another "investment" perhaps a series 1 next.
 
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