Hood Sticks and Stuff

Innzy · Mar 19, 2014

Think it's gonna be a nice summer so I got my eye on a bikini hood to replace the truck cab. Could anyone explain exactly what bits are needed as well as the canvas I've had a search but am a bit puzzled

Obviously I need a front hoop thingy but what else? Eg how many of the clamps for the stick and what fixes it to the top of the screen?

Seems you can only buy a full kit for the full length hoods and don't fancy paying £250+ so hoping for a few raids on eBay! Ta.

doughnut · Mar 20, 2014

Hi Innzy, my truck cab will be coming off soon, I use a bikini hood with no door tops, so all I have to fit is the "sharks tooth rail" on the top of the windscreen and the hoop behind the seats.

Innzy · Mar 20, 2014

doughnut said:
Hi Innzy, my truck cab will be coming off soon, I use a bikini hood with no door tops, so all I have to fit is the "sharks tooth rail" on the top of the windscreen and the hoop behind the seats.

Cheers doughnut useful info I was thinking of removing the door tops also so if all I need is a rail and a hoop then happy days

Do you find the hood flaps around much without the door tops?

mrchurchill109 · Mar 21, 2014

you need a bit more than that to make it stable

Theree are door frame pieces for the doortops that will hold the whoole mess stable - top rails and back rails with seals that basically tie the hoop and windshield top rail together.

This helps to hold the canvas in place, as the canvas w/o the top and side rails will pull the hoop forward - and the hoops don;t sit all that tight in the holes even with the lobster claws to hold them down.

i'd add those bits, were it me. This way your doortops will sit properly on rainy days when you pop them back and and won;t flap!

ajr

Innzy · Mar 21, 2014

mrchurchill109 said:
you need a bit more than that to make it stable

Theree are door frame pieces for the doortops that will hold the whoole mess stable - top rails and back rails with seals that basically tie the hoop and windshield top rail together.

This helps to hold the canvas in place, as the canvas w/o the top and side rails will pull the hoop forward - and the hoops don;t sit all that tight in the holes even with the lobster claws to hold them down.

i'd add those bits, were it me. This way your doortops will sit properly on rainy days when you pop them back and and won;t flap!

ajr

Thanks that's very helpful

Don't fancy flappy canvas noise to deal with there's enough noises going on already looks like a full kit is in order then!

samc88 · Mar 21, 2014

I thought the shark tooth rail was hard to get hold of? Does it come with a hood stick set then? Not really looked into soft tops much

doughnut · Mar 21, 2014

I would buy the basics first, if you later decide you need all the gubbins around the door top you can get them then, keep it simple, it works fine. Yes Sam the sharks tooth rails seem expensive for what they are, I got mine on ebay for a reasoable price. but summers coming and everyone will want one now!

Innzy · Mar 21, 2014

Looks like the sharks tooth rail is available from exmoor for 65 quid, factor in the other bits and bobs and I see why the full kit is £250. Seems a lot I'm used to most landy bits being dirt cheap only paid 15 quid for me truck cab! not much on eBay though unfortunately may have to bite the bullet

honolulujoe · Mar 22, 2014

the price of the sharks tooth rail is obscene imho, can't remember whether it was paddocks or craddocks that quoted me £65 for it too - presumably they get it from Exmoor - absolutely ridiculous for what it is.

incidentally that's another area where the s1 scores, having the sharks tooth bit as part of the windscreen not a separate item. why lose some of the best design bits as you develop a vehicle beats me.

Freetime101 · Mar 22, 2014

Could you make one?
I haven't seen one up close to see how complicated it is but presumably it's just a spiky stick?

LandRoverbug · Mar 22, 2014

Spikey stick - ha ha. Not much immediate help to you but I have a separate windscreen with the top rail permanently attached (I got it off ebay for the price of a normal S3 screen).
Much simpler to leave a sreen attached to the hard top or cab and lift it off as one unit. Allows you to get the steel-eating crud out from under the screen frame as well.

Innzy · Mar 22, 2014

Freetime101 said:
Could you make one?
I haven't seen one up close to see how complicated it is but presumably it's just a spiky stick?

Was thinking this myself tbh think I will get the canvas and have a look for a DIY solution and if it's not possible then take the hit!
The door bits are cheap enough and plenty of second hand hood sticks available.

Freetime101 · Mar 22, 2014

Innzy said:
Was thinking this myself tbh think I will get the canvas and have a look for a DIY solution and if it's not possible then take the hit!
The door bits are cheap enough and plenty of second hand hood sticks available.

Pics if you do

Innzy · Mar 23, 2014

Freetime101 said:
Pics if you do

Haha watch this space the bikini is on it's way...........

darius · Mar 23, 2014

LandRoverbug said:
Spikey stick - ha ha. Not much immediate help to you but I have a separate windscreen with the top rail permanently attached (I got it off ebay for the price of a normal S3 screen).
Much simpler to leave a sreen attached to the hard top or cab and lift it off as one unit. Allows you to get the steel-eating crud out from under the screen frame as well.

Unless you have a series 2 or early 2a

honolulujoe · Mar 26, 2014

Freetime101 said:
Could you make one?
I haven't seen one up close to see how complicated it is but presumably it's just a spiky stick?

the s1 seems to just have the shark tooth bits welded to the top metal part of the screen, presumably prior to it getting galv'ed so I would think anyone who can weld could cut their own pieces and weld them on

Innzy · Mar 26, 2014

honolulujoe said:
the s1 seems to just have the shark tooth bits welded to the top metal part of the screen, presumably prior to it getting galv'ed so I would think anyone who can weld could cut their own pieces and weld them on

Would that still enable the roof to be bolted back on then? My plan is to bolt a strip of steel through the roof mounting holes with the teeth welded to the strip, and then welding some brackets to accept some thin steel tubes to act as door tops which will run to the hoop (which will also have brackets welded on).

This is all a plan in my head at the moment when the canvas arrives I will whip the cab off and have a proper look/think. And then probably just attack it with the welder and make a right mess

Iann · Mar 26, 2014

Take plenty of pictures so if it works out we can all copy you

honolulujoe · Mar 27, 2014

shouldn't affect the roof going back on, I probably wasn't clear in what I said, they are just below the front face of the top of the windscreen frame, might try and take a pic if I can

Innzy · Mar 27, 2014

honolulujoe said:
shouldn't affect the roof going back on, I probably wasn't clear in what I said, they are just below the front face of the top of the windscreen frame, might try and take a pic if I can

Any pics would be great! Google doesn't throw much up the only pics I can see are the exmoor ones which are useless as a guide. Otherwise it will be trial and error

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