kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
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- Truro
It's a 1.8 K series and crank damperfailure isn't common on those.
Ah, In that case, my post probably isn't much help.
Freelander 1 Honey, I think I’ve killed my Freelander
- Thread starter rob_bell
- Start date
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Ah, In that case, my post probably isn't much help.
teddywood1
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- stoke-on-trent
I did not realise the 1800 had a pulley like that Nodge I will have to look at the wife,s car to see if that is ok
Most engines have crank damper pulleys, and have done for decades. Using a damper pulley enables the manufacturer to use less metal in the crankshaft. Crankshafts fail due to overloading or torsional vibrations. Overloading can be controlled by limitations in air flow into the engine. Torsional vibrations can't be controlled, so they add a crank damper.
GrumpyGel
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- Christchurch, New Zealand
Dunno what sort of moolah you're into there RB to fix that up - but (presumably!) gotta be better than a dead engine - you never want problems in the first place, but sounds like it could be a pretty decent outcome.
Donkey lives
Donkey lives
Thank you all for all the kind comments - really appreciated! Life can really kick you while you're down, but we'll get through this.
Thanks GG - I've bought a brand new, genuine LR crank pulley/ damper assembly off the bay of fleas (around 38 quid if I recall correctly - along with a new, genuine LR crank pulley bolt).
Thanks Kernowsvenski - I really haven't come across this problem on a K-series before. It's reassuring that someone else has been there, done that and came out the other side without too much drama! When I get the chance, I'll put the crank pulley on (after double checking the timing - but it does seem to run without any major problem) and see whether that cures the problems and the strange vibrations!
Anyone got any advice on which power steering belt to get? Might as well change it now as it is starting to show cracks...
Thanks GG - I've bought a brand new, genuine LR crank pulley/ damper assembly off the bay of fleas (around 38 quid if I recall correctly - along with a new, genuine LR crank pulley bolt).
Thanks Kernowsvenski - I really haven't come across this problem on a K-series before. It's reassuring that someone else has been there, done that and came out the other side without too much drama! When I get the chance, I'll put the crank pulley on (after double checking the timing - but it does seem to run without any major problem) and see whether that cures the problems and the strange vibrations!
Anyone got any advice on which power steering belt to get? Might as well change it now as it is starting to show cracks...
It's rare for K series dampers to fail, so you're just unlucky. Make sure you whack the bolt up nice and tight. I use my buzz gun, but a long bar will do. Just make sure it's in its pip, or it can slip off and loosen the bolt.
I always use Gates belts as quality is guarantee.
I always use Gates belts as quality is guarantee.
tlo
Active Member
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- nottingham
Life can be a bitch mate and I wish you all and the family the best and fingers crossed the hippo will be ok
Today has not gone quite to plan, as I shall explain shortly...
New parts arrived - new Land Rover crank pulley, bolt and power steering belt (Gates):
Nice dry day today, so I got to work. As I rather expected, there was a tonne of Salisbury Plane still trapped above the skid plate:
I’ve pulled out all this now dry clay (I suspect that this may have been causing some of the noises I could hear).
The sump guard panel I had made has taken quite a battering. It’s performed it’s purpose, but maybe I need to remake it in heavier grade alloy? I’ll park that for now...
New parts arrived - new Land Rover crank pulley, bolt and power steering belt (Gates):
Nice dry day today, so I got to work. As I rather expected, there was a tonne of Salisbury Plane still trapped above the skid plate:
I’ve pulled out all this now dry clay (I suspect that this may have been causing some of the noises I could hear).
The sump guard panel I had made has taken quite a battering. It’s performed it’s purpose, but maybe I need to remake it in heavier grade alloy? I’ll park that for now...
The immediate problem was obvious:
Makes removing the old pulley very easy.
Looking at the rubber in the pulley assembly, all isn’t quite right: multiple cracks. Not sure whether this sufficient evidence of damper failure?
I thought I was on the home run at this point and offered up the new pulley, but immediately there was a problem: it didn’t engage with the sprocket’s key.
I removed the crank pulley and looked at the cam belt sprocket:
See the problem? The key on the cam belt sprocket has chipped off.
I’ve tidied things up and popped the road wheel back on. I’ll have to replace that sprocket.
First I’ll have to figure out how to get it off and put a new one on!!!
This l’ill donkey is being predictably stubborn it seems...
Makes removing the old pulley very easy.
Looking at the rubber in the pulley assembly, all isn’t quite right: multiple cracks. Not sure whether this sufficient evidence of damper failure?
I thought I was on the home run at this point and offered up the new pulley, but immediately there was a problem: it didn’t engage with the sprocket’s key.
I removed the crank pulley and looked at the cam belt sprocket:
See the problem? The key on the cam belt sprocket has chipped off.
I’ve tidied things up and popped the road wheel back on. I’ll have to replace that sprocket.
First I’ll have to figure out how to get it off and put a new one on!!!
This l’ill donkey is being predictably stubborn it seems...
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
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Are you in the excavation business now?
Mike
Mike
That's what seems to have happened here. I found a couple of mentions of this on an internet search.
The crankshaft timing gear seems to be an interference fit on the crank. I looked at the K-series overhaul manual. That unhelpfully simply says "remove crankshaft timing gear". Brilliant.
I'll either lever it, or use a sliding puller. But first I'll need to put the engine into "safe position" and lock the engine and cams. And if I am doing that, I might as well replace the cam belt. Not quite the 30 minute job I had originally hoped for.
The crankshaft timing gear seems to be an interference fit on the crank. I looked at the K-series overhaul manual. That unhelpfully simply says "remove crankshaft timing gear". Brilliant.
I'll either lever it, or use a sliding puller. But first I'll need to put the engine into "safe position" and lock the engine and cams. And if I am doing that, I might as well replace the cam belt. Not quite the 30 minute job I had originally hoped for.
That's what seems to have happened here. I found a couple of mentions of this on an internet search.
The crankshaft timing gear seems to be an interference fit on the crank. I looked at the K-series overhaul manual. That unhelpfully simply says "remove crankshaft timing gear". Brilliant.
I'll either lever it, or use a sliding puller. But first I'll need to put the engine into "safe position" and lock the engine and cams. And if I am doing that, I might as well replace the cam belt. Not quite the 30 minute job I had originally hoped for.
The cam sprocket will come off easily. Just lightly tap it from one side then the other. This will break it's fit to the crank nose.
Thanks Nodge - I'll give that a go. I'll harvest a timing gear from a scrap engine I have here.
Question: should I replace the cam belt or not? That takes this from a relatively quick job to a rather longer one? (I'm feeling a little lazy, and I am not sure that I do have a spare cam belt in store... and I'd like to get this Hippo fixed tomorrow morning if at all possible!)
Question: should I replace the cam belt or not? That takes this from a relatively quick job to a rather longer one? (I'm feeling a little lazy, and I am not sure that I do have a spare cam belt in store... and I'd like to get this Hippo fixed tomorrow morning if at all possible!)
