Hole to ground zero.

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Mackers said:
Wow. Just been to check and I don't think so. Pipes are in the way? Actually, just wondering since I've discovered this now. Can I bend the pipe or something to make the fuel gauge tally to when my tank's full from this location?
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That toolbox/storage tray doesn't go in the drivers position, it goes under the centre seat - bags of room.

Sender mis-read: Bending a pipe won't solve this but if you unscrew the plate that the wires go into you can then alter the float arm to suit - depending on which way it read depends which way you need to bend the float arm.
 
discomania said:
Bending a pipe won't solve this but if you undo those screws on the plate that the wires go into you can then alter the float arm to suit - depending on which way it read depends which way you need to bend the float arm.
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Well if you can tell me, that would be brill as I can do it now. When the tank is absolutely full, the gauge says 3/4s. But, it starts to fall when the tank gets to 3/4 and they're in sync thereafter.
 
Mackers said:
No. I was playing banter tennis, or so I thought, with a house team member who drives an inferior model of a make of car, be it dressed up in fluff and leather, or not (as your version may be cloth)
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No, you were being offensive. Simple as. You read what you wanted into my post and decided I was taking a dig at your 90. If you could show me anything in my post that could be mistaken for being derisory, then there might be an excuse. However, there is nothing. Anyone who spends time around them does know what theyre like and they are bone rattlers, so you could be getting a headache , stemming from your neck. However, Im starting to think it is more likely from the amount of times you have to wind your neck in, after jumping to conclusions.
I suggest, you grow a thicker skin and a better understanding of 'banter'. Or youre going to be spending a lot of time jumping down the throats of anyone who owns a different model, when they comment on the known foibles of your 90.
 
gold rover said:
No, you were being offensive. Simple as. You read what you wanted into my post and decided I was taking a dig at your 90. If you could show me anything in my post that could be mistaken for being derisory, then there might be an excuse. However, there is nothing. Anyone who spends time around them does know what theyre like and they are bone rattlers, so you could be getting a headache , stemming from your neck. However, Im starting to think it is more likely from the amount of times you have to wind your neck in, after jumping to conclusions.
I suggest, you grow a thicker skin and a better understanding of 'banter'. Or youre going to be spending a lot of time jumping down the throats of anyone who owns a different model, when they comment on the known foibles of your 90.
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Oh you do make me laugh lol. You're absolutely astute in recognising that I jump to conclusions, and 'act in haste, repent at leisure' was invented for me. I won't do a theamatic analysis of the past narratives though (if that's alright?). I'm very much a mad hare, and I rarely look back (zip, zip, zip). It's so much easier to stay friends when we just keep moving forward. It's why my skin's as thick as rhino sperm. Now let's be friends and talk no more of our vehicular differences.
 
Mackers said:
Well if you can tell me, that would be brill as I can do it now. When the tank is absolutely full, the gauge says 3/4s. But, it starts to fall when the tank gets to 3/4 and they're in sync thereafter.
Click to expand...
See my edited post, I meant to say if you unscrew the plate - basically there is a ring, you knock the ring round and that will release the sender, you lift it out and there is the sender mechanism.

Basically what you need to do it alter the arm to suit the mis-read - so if it reads much lower fuel level than what is really in the tank then you need the float to be bent down a little so that as the float drops the arm doesn't sweep down as low, thus you will end up with a higher fuel reading - other way if it reads too full that means that the arm float is sitting too low, needing bent up a little, so even with say 3/4 tank of fuel, the arm sits higher i.e. in the fuller position before it should because the float is sitting down in the fuel.

Small moves, when I did it when I fitted my new tank I got my tank low, like just enough to cover the tank but still enough the pickup could suck fuel, so maybe 2-3 litres in the tank, then I calibrated it so that the fuel light was on and it was showing empty, then add about 6 litres and make sure that the fuel light is still on and still showing near enough empty/low, then get it so for the sake of an extra 3-4 litres it turns off the warning light, you want to get warned when you have about 5-6 litres of usable fuel really - maybe even more if you want - I think I get a warning when I have about 45miles range (probably more but I never try it), my engine gives me about 28mpg so about 7.28litres in the tank.

It is better to read lower than fuller and then conk out with no fuel. The tanks are small and you don't get far on a tank really.
 
discomania said:
See my edited post, I meant to say if you unscrew the plate - basically there is a ring, you knock the ring round and that will release the sender, you lift it out and there is the sender mechanism.

Basically what you need to do it alter the arm to suit the mis-read - so if it reads much lower fuel level than what is really in the tank then you need the float to be bent down a little so that as the float drops the arm doesn't sweep down as low, thus you will end up with a higher fuel reading - other way if it reads too full that means that the arm float is sitting too low, needing bent up a little, so even with say 3/4 tank of fuel, the arm sits higher i.e. in the fuller position before it should because the float is sitting down in the fuel.

Small moves, when I did it when I fitted my new tank I got my tank low, like just enough to cover the tank but still enough the pickup could suck fuel, so maybe 2-3 litres in the tank, then I calibrated it so that the fuel light was on and it was showing empty, then add about 6 litres and make sure that the fuel light is still on and still showing near enough empty/low, then get it so for the sake of an extra 3-4 litres it turns off the warning light, you want to get warned when you have about 5-6 litres of usable fuel really - maybe even more if you want - I think I get a warning when I have about 45miles range (probably more but I never try it), my engine gives me about 28mpg so about 7.28litres in the tank.

It is better to read lower than it is than fuller and conk out. The tanks are small and you don't get far on a tank really.
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cheers for that. I've just maxed it (10p a litre off at Morrisons, but it does only take 40 odd quid. I've copied and pasted what you've said. A job for this or next weekend.
 
With regard to your fuel sender - it may need cleaning. I had an old Vauxhall VX4/90 years ago that did the same thing, turned out it had been sat for a good while on about 2/3 of a tank so it wouldn't register anything above that due to dirt and a bit of corrosion, a gentle clean with some fine emery paper and it worked perfectly. I don't know much about landys but if it has the old float type sender it might be the same problem.
 
Mackers said:
cheers for that. I've just maxed it (10p a litre off at Morrisons, but it does only take 40 odd quid. I've copied and pasted what you've said. A job for this or next weekend.
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What does it read with a known full tank? If it took £40 then what was that, about 36litres? If it only took 36litres then there was probably about 22 litres in the tank as I think it is a 58litre tank - it is listed as 60 but I have never got enough into it to suggest this is correct, even when it was a new tank and empty.
 
Mick X11 said:
With regard to your fuel sender - it may need cleaning. I had an old Vauxhall VX4/90 years ago that did the same thing, turned out it had been sat for a good while on about 2/3 of a tank so it wouldn't register anything above that due to dirt and a bit of corrosion, a gentle clean with some fine emery paper and it worked perfectly. I don't know much about landys but if it has the old float type sender it might be the same problem.
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Mine did this last month actually, it had sat little used most of the autumn and when I brimmed it there was a bit of a fluctuation for the first while of driving about, I put it down to the contacts cleaning up as the fuel sloshed the float up and down.
 
Mackers said:
yeah, there's a battery there. I saw that about a week after owning it, but it's in a box as in a shell of the car. I thought under the driver's side would be the same (a box to keep stuff in or whatever)
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If you had bought a full sized version (110 or larger) rather than a matchbox toy, you would also have a nice large box under the drivers seat instead of a fuel tank. My one is filled with tools and spare parts for when it brakes at the side of the road :D.

Something to be aware of with the battery box is that if it is original it will be steel rather than ali (bermabright for the pedantic) like the rest of the bod work. This mean that when combined with battery acid fumes it enjoys rusting away so would be worth checking and posisble giveing a bit of a preventative rub down and paint if it needs it. Or if it is very rusty, YRM do large ali replacement battery boxes which just rivet in, so may be worth checking before you order the middle tool tray from them to save on postage. I rebuilt my seat box using the yrm parts a couple of ears ago and they are great, I did both under seat boxes (110 remember) and the side panels. Was a very satisfying job and made a huge difference to mine which was very rusty and had a lot of ali corrosion as well.
 
Mick X11 said:
With regard to your fuel sender - it may need cleaning. I had an old Vauxhall VX4/90 years ago that did the same thing, turned out it had been sat for a good while on about 2/3 of a tank so it wouldn't register anything above that due to dirt and a bit of corrosion, a gentle clean with some fine emery paper and it worked perfectly. I don't know much about landys but if it has the old float type sender it might be the same problem.
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Wow. My first car. Silver with a black vinyl roof. God I loved that car. Must dredge out a picture of it. VX490 automatic. 80's luxury :0)
 
Well I've taken off the cover as we've been talking (the hole discovery was a consequence of removing the seat). I think we can all safely say that the cushion is sh%$ged? I want to keep the original covers. There's a couple of small tears on the rear seat vinyl bits. I'd buy new but I can't source the original houndstooth tweed now. Vinyl repair ideas anyone? I thought about isolating the rips with tape then trying to melt the vinyl together with the flame magispark thing I use for the cooker. Has anyone tried that?

seat.jpg


... and 26 years of sweaty arse!!!

sweaty arse.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mackers said:
Well I've taken off the cover as we've been talking (the hole discovery was a consequence of removing the seat). I think we can all safely say that the cushion is sh%$ged? I want to keep the original covers. There's a couple of small tears on the rear seat vinyl bits. I'd buy new but I can't source the original houndstooth tweed now. Vinyl repair ideas anyone? I thought about isolating the rips with tape then trying to melt the vinyl together with the flame magispark thing I use for the cooker. Has anyone tried that?

View attachment 164670

... and 26 years of sweaty arse!!!

View attachment 164671
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Is that kitchen worktop varnished chipboard?
 
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