Hoisting gearbox via centre console question.

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jamesmartin said:
i remove boxes through the tunnel opening with an engine crane very frequently, i use a chain on the top rhs stud that secures t/box to g/box, its front heavy but very level side ways
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Hi James, i am sorry for asking all these questions. Is this the stud you use ( black arrow in picture )?
tboxgbox.jpg
 
jamesmartin said:
its the laterally thats worse
Click to expand...
JM, how different is that R380 D2 gearbox to the one fitted to the later D1?
On my D1 I attached the lifting device with one of the bolts on the gearshift plate mount surface, (gearshift stick removed), and it was laterally well balanced and hung level front to rear, just requiring a light push to change angle for entry.
I also had the handbrake drum and backing plate off.
 
I don't suppose you can remember which one? It has started raining again. Having such awful weather. Oh for the luxury of a garage big enough. In a break in the rain yesterday re-centered the clutch plate and the alignment tool fitted a whole lot more freely. There is a chance of a dry period tomorrow afternoon. i will have another go then. Thanks you.
 
Gazbo said:
JM, how different is that R380 D2 gearbox to the one fitted to the later D1?
On my D1 I attached the lifting device with one of the bolts on the gearshift plate mount surface, (gearshift stick removed), and it was laterally well balanced and hung level front to rear, just requiring a light push to change angle for entry.
I also had the handbrake drum and backing plate off.
Click to expand...
the same but more front heavy
 
brianconwy said:
I don't suppose you can remember which one? It has started raining again. Having such awful weather. Oh for the luxury of a garage big enough. In a break in the rain yesterday re-centered the clutch plate and the alignment tool fitted a whole lot more freely. There is a chance of a dry period tomorrow afternoon. i will have another go then. Thanks you.
Click to expand...
one of the rhs 2 ie drivers side, they would balance better fore and aft but a weak point unlike the 10mm stud
 
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brianconwy said:
I don't suppose you can remember which one? It has started raining again. Having such awful weather. Oh for the luxury of a garage big enough. In a break in the rain yesterday re-centered the clutch plate and the alignment tool fitted a whole lot more freely. There is a chance of a dry period tomorrow afternoon. i will have another go then. Thanks you.
Click to expand...
As JM has said it was one of the two rhs but it was a while back now so I'm not sure. It's only m8 dia but if you use a HT bolt to utilise the full thread depth and use washers to make sure the bolt is tightened firm against the lift bracket and the surface of the box the tensile strength of that bolt is sufficient to support the weight. But for and aft balance might be an issue due to more weighted front end as JM has indicated.
 
are clutch splines aligned , barring spigot bush been too tight if its that far manipulating by hand shouls see it go in you need to lift/ feel the box in by hand
 
Thanks. I can't see the spines but the transfer box output shaft isn't rotating when the crank pulley bolt is turned. Is it better to turn the output shaft or the crank? Thanks again.
 
jamesmartin said:
are clutch splines aligned , barring spigot bush been too tight if its that far manipulating by hand shouls see it go in you need to lift/ feel the box in by hand
Click to expand...
After lots of pushing and wiggling, we lowered the gearbox back down and saw this (see photo).
Do you think this is the cause of the problem?
I have checked the drive plate is the right way round and alignment is still OK.
Can we bend those tabs up and what is supposed to hold the clutch pipe out of the way or is it in the way because of how we positioned it out of the way?
It is manual 2003 TD5.
Thanks.
Brackets.jpg


Can we bend those tabs up and what is supposed to hold the clutch pipe out of the way or is it in the way because of how we positioned it out of the way?
It is manual 2003 TD5.
Thanks.
 
yes bend the tabs and position the slave so pipes out of the way, i use a lever bar to push tabs back once box is up, lhs from engine bay rhs from underneath, once you have a few bolts in box can be lowered to give better access,to rhs bolt ,lhs wants box up
 
jamesmartin said:
yes bend the tabs and position the slave so pipes out of the way, i use a lever bar to push tabs back once box is up, lhs from engine bay rhs from underneath, once you have a few bolts in box can be lowered to give better access,to rhs bolt ,lhs wants box up
Click to expand...
Other people have said they have had a problem with these and I meant to check but was in too much of a rush. Caused a lot of extra work. I just hope this is the cause of our problem. We seemed to be really close but splines hadn't meshed and top of bellhousing just sprung back. Thanks.
 
brianconwy said:
Other people have said they have had a problem with these and I meant to check but was in too much of a rush. Caused a lot of extra work. I just hope this is the cause of our problem. We seemed to be really close but splines hadn't meshed and top of bellhousing just sprung back. Thanks.
Click to expand...
they are an issue i didnt mention them as someone else did, i either bend or sometimes you can cable tie them up enough
 
brianconwy said:
Other people have said they have had a problem with these and I meant to check but was in too much of a rush. Caused a lot of extra work. I just hope this is the cause of our problem. We seemed to be really close but splines hadn't meshed and top of bellhousing just sprung back. Thanks.
Click to expand...
To align clutch spline, engage fourth gear, a couple of bolts in the drive flange holes on transfer box and rotate output shaft to front while you hold the rear output flange or jam it to stop rotation. Once the spline slips in and is entered put a bolt in each side LH and RH of bell housing at horizontal centre line, start to tighten evenly each side, making slight movement of the rear of the gearbox up and down until the nose end of the first motion shaft enters the spigot bearing. At all times trying to keep the gap engine to bell housing equal top to bottom and side to side.
 
jamesmartin said:
they are an issue i didnt mention them as someone else did, i either bend or sometimes you can cable tie them up enough
Click to expand...
For me the hard part was to bend them back. I could do somehow the left one but gave up the right one. Next time I do some work in engine bay i will remove the cooler pipe which is fixed by those 2 tabs, as my egr has removed and it is for that (from oil cooler to egr)
 
Gazbo said:
To align clutch spline, engage fourth gear, a couple of bolts in the drive flange holes on transfer box and rotate output shaft to front while you hold the rear output flange or jam it to stop rotation. Once the spline slips in and is entered put a bolt in each side LH and RH of bell housing at horizontal centre line, start to tighten evenly each side, making slight movement of the rear of the gearbox up and down until the nose end of the first motion shaft enters the spigot bearing. At all times trying to keep the gap engine to bell housing equal top to bottom and side to side.
Click to expand...
i would never start the bolts or tighten evenly till its slid it up fully ,you run the risk of damaging the spigot bush
 
berg450 said:
For me the hard part was to bend them back. I could do somehow the left one but gave up the right one. Next time I do some work in engine bay i will remove the cooler pipe which is fixed by those 2 tabs, as my egr has removed and it is for that (from oil cooler to egr)
Click to expand...
thats easily done at the time with a longish bar after other bolts are fitted by letting box down to give access to top of bell housing ,crank sensor and accoustic cover can be fitted at the same time
 
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