Disco 2 Hill Descent

You guys will probably moan at this as its another amigo problem. But a question over hill descent light on my new to me Disco 2.
The hill descent seems to be working , when on an incline in low range and in Drive with feet off the pedals the abs is working a good un. A constant chatter but no green light. In fact no other light from it at all good or bad.
On initial starting the amber light comes on for the required time and then goes out. If you engage hill descent in high , it chimes as it should but no illumination of amber or green. When you engage in low gear and drive there is no illumination or chime. But if you disengage you get 3 chimes.
As i said ABS and hill descent seem to be working. No Amigos. And amber light on at start up but distinguishes as it should.

Hoping to fit the missing CDL lever and slabs unit at some point but just wanting to make sure all is ok before i do. Have a Hawkeye total so can investigate if I knew what to look for.

Any guidance would be appreciated. Hopefully have posted in the right section.

Go with hawkeye in ABS - circuit tests and activate "HDC info light", it should come on for a short time on the dash, if it doesnt there's a problem probably in the instrument pack

Superb. Thank you will try tomorrow. As i said i think its working so quite a novel twist to this type of question. Normally not working.
Thanks for quick reply.

Hi again. Got rained off from a few jobs i was doing and was able to play with the discovery a bit more.
Investigated with Hawkeye. I am a novice but have been googling and picking some things up. Perhaps a little knowledge can be dangerous but perhaps thats a discussion for another day.

ABS no faults on DTC.
When abs is selected on Hawkeye numerous lights come up as probably expected.
Selected as advised 21. HDC info light. when tested nothing happens. The illuminated amber lights stayed on. It was already on from the moment that i started the investigation as were the other lights.TC SRS etc.
Selected next on the list 22. HDC faut light. Selected 'Forced off' and the HDC amber light went off for as long as i selected the check button.
Took the beauty for a run to the local hill on my lane. Engaged drive and low. Hit the HDC button and was transported to the bottom at walking pace with the abs doing its thing. As the hill levelled off the abs stopped working as no longer needed. But no green light at all so can only presume as you suggested that its the instrument pack at fault. But as working will just let it be.
Thanks

On another thing however had a look around the EMS and there was a fault of 3014 which seems to be low air flow. It would not clear so investigated.
At idle my air flow is 0.00 kg. Rising to approx 63 at 3000 rpm. no load. just sat in drive.
Not sure if important but checked the voltage on the Maf. v was 0.69 at idle and rose to approx 2.1 at 3000 rpm.
again was just looking around and under live data.
44. EGR vacuum 0.00
45 EGR inlet throttle not fitted
47 turbo wastegate 0.00
not sure if all the above are relavent but just wondering if you had a clue to the 3024 fault and the non air flow at idle.

Going to post another post another thread about tyres and then hide. Because i can see that that are many views on that subject.
Thanks again.

Hi, yes, i forgot that hawkeye brings on the warnings then forces off on circuit test but as you saw the green HDC is not working at all and most suspect is the IP for that... about the MAF, you need a new one, here's how all the sensor's readings should be:
MAF(air flow kg/hr) = 55-65 at idle growing with revs up to 600 or above at 3000+rpm under heavy load, at 680 the MAF drops to 0 and the ECU reduces fuelling(turbocharger overspeed protection)

AAP(ambient pressure kPa) = real ambient pressure on barometer in kPa, around 100 must drop up to 2 units to 3000+rpm, more decreasing of that value related to the acceleration should indicate that the air beyond the filter is less than required.

AAT(ambient temp) -only Eu3/15-16P engines = real ambient temp on thermometer (not shown)

MAP(manifold absolute pressure) = very close to AAP at idle growing to 230 at full load

IAT(inlet air temp *C) = AAT + 10 to 30 depending on outside temp, engine coolant temp and boost(meaured with coolant gauge at middle)...also it can be much higher if non-cooled EGR is still fitted

COOLANT TEMP(*C) = 70 - 115 gauge stays at the midddle, the gauge will go to red zone only at 120 and the electric cooling(aircon) fan kicks in at 110 and stops at 105

FUEL TEMP = around 10 - 20 less than coolant temp depending on ambient temp

THROTTLE
ACCEL. WAY 1 - about 0.3V with the pedal released, about 4.7V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 2 - about 4.7V with the pedal released, about 0.3V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 3 – this track must have values very near to the second track.(only 15P-16P engines)
ACCEL. SUPPLY – this value must stay between 4.9 a 5.1
* an up to +0.5V for WAY 1 and -0.5V for WAY 2 are accepted

IDLE ESPEED = 750rpm

IDLE SPEED ERROR – This is a calculated value that shows the difference between the idle speed and the real drive demand

wow. Thank you. Certainly some info.
Thought that the Maf was probably US. Will print this out. Check my wagon to these figures and if all else is ok replace the MAF. Thank you for your time and trouble. Really, Really appreciated. As I now have two working landies, will be able to enjoy them doing this forum is there to help.
Thanks . will let you know how i get on with the the new MAF.

Welcome, based on the "45 EGR inlet throttle not fitted" i deduce that your's is a 10P/Eu2 engine so the MAF is mainly for EGR management , better drive it with MAF unplugged untill you replace it

I have so much to learn in my old age. Now i have to read up on different td5 engines.
Old dogs and new tricks.
I had better go off and learn the difference. Thanks again.

Well new Britpart MAF delivered today.
Faults of high low air flow cleared and not come back.

Live data shows reading of 57 at idle.
Where as before it was zero.
Superb. Thank you.

Just now the S & M which momentarily came up to keep an eye. Had a google And read up. So xyz here i come depending on how it behaves. Then of course the water in the feul filter light came up for a breif moment. They like to keep us alert.

Thanks again for the help.

For the M+S you have to scan the EAT(transmission) ECU cos there should be a fault code logged in it... there can be about 19 reasons for flashing M+S, the XYZ switch is just one of them een though the most common

Hi. Lights on again for M @S.
Ran the Dtc s with Hawkeye and p1842 p1843. Did a bit of research and could be a connection issue to ecu possibly oil or just bad connection. Will start there but any other ideas if not. ? Gearbox seems to be working fine.

Yes, check for oil in the ECM red plug, erase the codes and see what comes back if M+S will flash again cos those codes can be hystorical as usually withs any of those codes if it's current the gearbox should go to limp mode

Well Ecu removed and check. Bit of oil around the red plug. But not disasterous. Cleaned up along with other plugs in the same area. Codes removed and so far not far come back. Watch this space.

According to paperwork with the car the injector loom was changed in 2016. 13000 miles ago. So should be ok. But presumably its the oil already in the loom to the ecu that could creep along and needs watching.
Thanks for the help. Brilliant.
Thanks again.

Richeee said:

the injector loom was changed in 2016. 13000 miles ago.

Click to expand...

that's relevant if you have the evidence that the loom is genuine LR... otherwise it's just a lotterty, there are many cases when aftermarket looms leaked after 6 months, othes after 1 year and others lasted more but not one more than 3 years.......

sierrafery said:

that's relevant if you have the evidence that the loom is genuine LR... otherwise it's just a lotterty, there are many cases when aftermarket looms leaked after 6 months, othes after 1 year and others lasted more but not one more than 3 years.......

Click to expand...

I'd second that, I changed mine about 5 years ago and I have had to clean the oil off the red plug more or less ever since. Stupid design.