P38A High beam issue

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I'm pretty sure on the gems the HEVAC powers the A/C directly, on late gems and thor there is a wiring harness and gets power directly from battery, could be mistaken tho.
 
I think that reading all of the info on the HVAC that you are right, I think it is a coincidence that it starting functioning correctly, probably from my removing the fuse box and reseating all of the fuses and relays. There was probably a duff connection and it has cleared it. I guess time will tell. I am shipping the BECM out on Monday to get it (hopefully) sorted.

Cheers
Chris
 
I'm pretty sure on the gems the HEVAC powers the A/C directly, on late gems and thor there is a wiring harness and gets power directly from battery, could be mistaken tho.

I read a thread on RR.net about swapping the GEMS lump for a chevvy 6.2. From memory all went well except the AC wouldn't pull in. Comparing the wiring diagram to the THOR and diesel (both of which are more of a cut and shut job) there was a difference and once wired up as per the THOR all was good. I cannot remember what it was now. @martyuk probably knows.
 
Many thanks to wazza for popping by and putting the nano on the old girl, unfortunately no faults logged so still don't know the actual issue at hand. I am not sure if faults would be logged with an internal failure, to be sure I will send the unit off to callrova to go through it anyway. It was at least nice to have met a face from the forum in person and a very nice chap to say the least.

Cheers
Chris
 
Many thanks to wazza for popping by and putting the nano on the old girl, unfortunately no faults logged so still don't know the actual issue at hand. I am not sure if faults would be logged with an internal failure, to be sure I will send the unit off to callrova to go through it anyway. It was at least nice to have met a face from the forum in person and a very nice chap to say the least.

Cheers
Chris
And I can confirm that a thor nanocom will work on everything but the gems ecu.

Was a pleasure to meet you.
Good luck getting it sorted.
 
I have also ordered a new fuse box from Island 4X4 as suggested by a few members, it seems that the 8 years it has been on there maybe a bit too long! So at least if the BECM is still serviceable after repair I will only have a couple of hundred other items left to do.... :)
 
Sorry - I've only just had a chance to check in and see that I've been tagged a couple of times on this...

I'm away on holiday at the moment, so kind of 'checking in' when I can.. that being said, I've had a couple of PM's back and forth about this over on RR.net and pretty sure it's a BECM issue rather than anything else unfortunately, given the number of the faults that are listed and that they all go through the BECM aswell. As I'm away and can't take a look myself, I suggested contacting callrova - so looks like it all should be sorted soon!

Air con - from what's been mentioned on here before, it sounds like one of the switched ignition feeds into the HEVAC is used to drive the compressor clutch output (I believe via a MOSFET - but haven't had the time to sit down with a multimeter and trace it all in the HEVAC unit)... but the wiring on later GEMS and Thor vehicles have the HEVAC only powering a relay, which then switches a direct battery +ve feed to the clutch itself.

The issue with the LSx powered one on RR.net was that the GEMS ECU wasn't thinking the engine was running all the time, so giving issues with tacho and AC from memory. The AC works (before getting to the compressor clutch drive) by sending a ground signal to the engine ECU to 'request' use of the AC. If the engine ECU thinks it can handle the load of the AC around the current running conditions/engine load, then it will send an AC 'Grant' signal back to the HEVAC (also a ground signal) which will then tell the HEVAC it can switch the compressor on.

The issue on the LS on was that as the GEMS ECU didn't think the engine was running, so wasn''t 'granting' the AC use back to the HEVAC - connecting the AC request and grant wires together meant that it bypassed the engine ECU, and when the HEVAC requested AC, it basically 'granted' it to itself, and would then turn the compressor on.

Back on-topic... hopefully Cornishboater will be up and running error-free again when the BECM comes back from Callrova.. I'm sure it will!
 
Have done the major surgery to the old girl, BECM is all packed and ready to go. While I had the seat out I thought I would check out all of the wiring, all looks good. One thing I have noticed while peeking around is that there is what looks like a solenoid switch behind the drivers side footwell kick panel. It looks like one of those that use to be used for starter motor actuation. It is a round canister about 1 1/2" diameter by about 3" long (thereabouts) it has a rubber cap on top which can be depressed. It is fully bracketed so I assume it is OEM. I have looked at the various diagrams I have and cannot for the life of me find it mentioned. Any ideas what it is? it is right beside the BECM white loom plug by the bonnet release
Cheers
 
Have done the major surgery to the old girl, BECM is all packed and ready to go. While I had the seat out I thought I would check out all of the wiring, all looks good. One thing I have noticed while peeking around is that there is what looks like a solenoid switch behind the drivers side footwell kick panel. It looks like one of those that use to be used for starter motor actuation. It is a round canister about 1 1/2" diameter by about 3" long (thereabouts) it has a rubber cap on top which can be depressed. It is fully bracketed so I assume it is OEM. I have looked at the various diagrams I have and cannot for the life of me find it mentioned. Any ideas what it is? it is right beside the BECM white loom plug by the bonnet release
Cheers

Emergency stop solenoid?
 
Hi, Cornish, I live in Creekmoor and have a spare fuse box in very good condition if its any help. I'll happily lend it to you if it will help with your diag work.
Meself, I think your BeCM has gone on the fritz - mine did and my RR is the same age and model and it was bone dry inside.
 
That would be awkward as it is behind the kick plate, when I first saw it it looked like a capacitor as per wazza, but it has a flexible rubber cap that seems to be a button of some sort, I aint gonna push because I have enough problems without creating a new one :) It must be there for something I guess, whether a button or capacitor, something else to go wrong at some point. My old Morris 1000 never had these problems ;)
 
A very kind offer Fergie, I have a new one on the way otherwise I would have taken you up on it, I have the BECM packed and ready, hopefully if that is what it is and callrova can sort it out, if not I think I have a bigger problem.......
There are certainly some great folks on this site. Quite a few local ones too, must have a get together! :)
 
A very kind offer Fergie, I have a new one on the way otherwise I would have taken you up on it, I have the BECM packed and ready, hopefully if that is what it is and callrova can sort it out, if not I think I have a bigger problem.......
There are certainly some great folks on this site. Quite a few local ones too, must have a get together! :)

That'll be the Landyzone Gettogether 2017!
 
Ah, is that what it is for, thanks for the info, mind you, in an emergency I don't think I would be focusing my attention on trying to pull the kick panel off :)
One would have thought that should be a sticker near it to advise emergency services
 
Ah, is that what it is for, thanks for the info, mind you, in an emergency I don't think I would be focusing my attention on trying to pull the kick panel off :)
One would have thought that should be a sticker near it to advise emergency services

It cuts out if jolted. The button is to reset it should it trigger accidentally.
 
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