So chaps ...I've a friend who's more mechanically minded than me , hes had a quick look with a code reader and theres no faults coming up on the reader , hes listened to it turning over (wont start) and he agrees with yourselves that it's an air / fuel issue and the extra oil wont have helped matters , hea going to help me strip it down over xmas and hopefully find the issue is a cheap fix , the pipe I felt under was the wrong one it was the thick top pipe that goes to radiator and the underneath of that was quite oily the intercooler pipe is the one underneath it I'm guessing , the end of the pipe I felt was quite thick with old oil that had congealed and gone hard it was wet enough to oil my hands up but not wet wet if you know what I mean, I'll keep you updated but thanks ever so much peteI also have a huge inventory of vehicle photos, pretty much all of them are in my headi.e. I know I have the pictures. However I'm finding that actually locating the picture I need is becoming very difficult, simply due to the sheer number of pictures I need to look through.
Hi and help !!!
- Thread starter Petenic73
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Jayridium
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- Pedronapper (Peterhead)
No offense pete, but given your mate approached what is perecieved to be a burst hose with a fault code reader, by the sounds of it you and your mate "couldnae put nuts in a monkeys mouth" never mind pass off as amateur mechanics. As such I'd suggest you refrain fromstripping down a modenr complex engine blindly. You're likely to end up with a box of oily metal bits and no idea how to put them back together let alone turn them into a running verion of your currently stricken car. Instead I'd suggest you take direct instructions from the experts in this forum who know these vehicles intimately.
rant over...
The sympoms you describe of your cars lack of power / power deliver scream of a turbo boost pressure leak. The prime candidates for that are the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to inlet manifold hoses. Essentially the engine is making black smoke as its seeing X amount of air going through the air filter via the sensor by the back of the air filter, and prescribing the appropriate ammount of fuel for that ammount of air. BUT we suspect some of that air is escaping though a leak, so the result is too much fuel for the ammount of air going into the engine so its running rich and making black smoke or rolling coal in american parlance. To solve that....
Look at Artics photos, all the blue hoses are like for like silicone replacements for the factory ones which are made of black rubber. We suggest you check those hoses for damage/leaks. Particularly the ones on the left of this picture:
As this is this is a prime candidate for chaffing on the underside of the hose on the top of the engine.
Another place to look is at the turbocharger itself, essentially if you start under the car, and follow the exhaust forward to the engine bay, the exhaust pipe disappears up into the back of the engine bay, where the pipe ends is where it bolts to the turbocharger. On the drivers side of the turbocharger is an unequal L shaped hose, roughly 1+1/2" x 2" if I remember correctly, undo the jubilee clips and remove it for closer inspection, as its also on the list of potential sources of your problems. Prime suspect is the one I've pointed to with the yellow arrow, where that hose is prone to rubbing against the underside of the hose onto an adjacent bit of engine. However... I have seen this unequal L one on the turbo disintegrate.
Essentially these hoses are normal rubber, which disolves in oil, the engines aren't getting any younger, and as such the turbo blows a bit of oil in with the air into the intake system where these hoses are located. Over time that oil contaminaiton weakens the hose causing it to swell/sag/soften to a point where it pops off its fitting / droops down and chaffs against something / weakens and cannot contain the pressure and bursts like a balloon. While they may be a few quid more than a straight like for like rubber replacement, the silicone hoses we are advocating are chemically resistant to the oil, so won't faildue to contat with the inevitable oil in a turbo system.
Sorry if my opening paragraph made me sound like a male genital, but I really don't want you coming back to us in the third week of January saying "got hold of my mechanically minded mate and we stripped it down a bit, but now two of the glow plugs have snapped and I've cracked the rocker cover trying to pry out one of the injectors, whcih btw is still stuck in there". But seeing as you are not clued up, do what we tell you and nothin else, and we will get you back on the road.
In the interim, seeing as its christmas, and you are not driving, drink more beer
rant over...
The sympoms you describe of your cars lack of power / power deliver scream of a turbo boost pressure leak. The prime candidates for that are the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to inlet manifold hoses. Essentially the engine is making black smoke as its seeing X amount of air going through the air filter via the sensor by the back of the air filter, and prescribing the appropriate ammount of fuel for that ammount of air. BUT we suspect some of that air is escaping though a leak, so the result is too much fuel for the ammount of air going into the engine so its running rich and making black smoke or rolling coal in american parlance. To solve that....
Look at Artics photos, all the blue hoses are like for like silicone replacements for the factory ones which are made of black rubber. We suggest you check those hoses for damage/leaks. Particularly the ones on the left of this picture:
As this is this is a prime candidate for chaffing on the underside of the hose on the top of the engine.
Another place to look is at the turbocharger itself, essentially if you start under the car, and follow the exhaust forward to the engine bay, the exhaust pipe disappears up into the back of the engine bay, where the pipe ends is where it bolts to the turbocharger. On the drivers side of the turbocharger is an unequal L shaped hose, roughly 1+1/2" x 2" if I remember correctly, undo the jubilee clips and remove it for closer inspection, as its also on the list of potential sources of your problems. Prime suspect is the one I've pointed to with the yellow arrow, where that hose is prone to rubbing against the underside of the hose onto an adjacent bit of engine. However... I have seen this unequal L one on the turbo disintegrate.
Essentially these hoses are normal rubber, which disolves in oil, the engines aren't getting any younger, and as such the turbo blows a bit of oil in with the air into the intake system where these hoses are located. Over time that oil contaminaiton weakens the hose causing it to swell/sag/soften to a point where it pops off its fitting / droops down and chaffs against something / weakens and cannot contain the pressure and bursts like a balloon. While they may be a few quid more than a straight like for like rubber replacement, the silicone hoses we are advocating are chemically resistant to the oil, so won't faildue to contat with the inevitable oil in a turbo system.
Sorry if my opening paragraph made me sound like a male genital, but I really don't want you coming back to us in the third week of January saying "got hold of my mechanically minded mate and we stripped it down a bit, but now two of the glow plugs have snapped and I've cracked the rocker cover trying to pry out one of the injectors, whcih btw is still stuck in there". But seeing as you are not clued up, do what we tell you and nothin else, and we will get you back on the road.
In the interim, seeing as its christmas, and you are not driving, drink more beer
Hey no that's fine I appreciate your honesty , that my friend is an excellent answer , one thing I have remembered is since weathers been cold when I start it early doors it was puffing more fumes out the back than usual and it was a strong exhaust smell to the point I havent dropped the rear window for a few weeks because the smell in the cab was too much , I smoke so use the rear window down a bit for its gentle air into car plus mi other windows dont work but yes it has smelt awfully exhaust the back box has seen better days so I just presumed it had sprung a little leak it's just one of those jobs that was going to have to wait till Jan, I dont know if the smell and fumes are related to its final meltdown but I just thought I might be significant but I dunno, as you rightly pointed out I couldnt hit a barn door with a banjo when it comes to cars there just not my thing so I'll be the first to agree with youNo offense pete, but given your mate approached what is perecieved to be a burst hose with a fault code reader, by the sounds of it you and your mate "couldnae put nuts in a monkeys mouth" never mind pass off as amateur mechanics. As such I'd suggest you refrain fromstripping down a modenr complex engine blindly. You're likely to end up with a box of oily metal bits and no idea how to put them back together let alone turn them into a running verion of your currently stricken car. Instead I'd suggest you take direct instructions from the experts in this forum who know these vehicles intimately.
rant over...
The sympoms you describe of your cars lack of power / power deliver scream of a turbo boost pressure leak. The prime candidates for that are the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to inlet manifold hoses. Essentially the engine is making black smoke as its seeing X amount of air going through the air filter via the sensor by the back of the air filter, and prescribing the appropriate ammount of fuel for that ammount of air. BUT we suspect some of that air is escaping though a leak, so the result is too much fuel for the ammount of air going into the engine so its running rich and making black smoke or rolling coal in american parlance. To solve that....
Look at Artics photos, all the blue hoses are like for like silicone replacements for the factory ones which are made of black rubber. We suggest you check those hoses for damage/leaks. Particularly the ones on the left of this picture:
View attachment 196747
As this is this is a prime candidate for chaffing on the underside of the hose on the top of the engine.
Another place to look is at the turbocharger itself, essentially if you start under the car, and follow the exhaust forward to the engine bay, the exhaust pipe disappears up into the back of the engine bay, where the pipe ends is where it bolts to the turbocharger. On the drivers side of the turbocharger is an unequal L shaped hose, roughly 1+1/2" x 2" if I remember correctly, undo the jubilee clips and remove it for closer inspection, as its also on the list of potential sources of your problems. Prime suspect is the one I've pointed to with the yellow arrow, where that hose is prone to rubbing against the underside of the hose onto an adjacent bit of engine. However... I have seen this unequal L one on the turbo disintegrate.
Essentially these hoses are normal rubber, which disolves in oil, the engines aren't getting any younger, and as such the turbo blows a bit of oil in with the air into the intake system where these hoses are located. Over time that oil contaminaiton weakens the hose causing it to swell/sag/soften to a point where it pops off its fitting / droops down and chaffs against something / weakens and cannot contain the pressure and bursts like a balloon. While they may be a few quid more than a straight like for like rubber replacement, the silicone hoses we are advocating are chemically resistant to the oil, so won't faildue to contat with the inevitable oil in a turbo system.
Sorry if my opening paragraph made me sound like a male genital, but I really don't want you coming back to us in the third week of January saying "got hold of my mechanically minded mate and we stripped it down a bit, but now two of the glow plugs have snapped and I've cracked the rocker cover trying to pry out one of the injectors, whcih btw is still stuck in there". But seeing as you are not clued up, do what we tell you and nothin else, and we will get you back on the road.
In the interim, seeing as its christmas, and you are not driving, drink more beer
pictures help , I dont suppose it would hurt to just replace all hoses in the process I would imagine you can buy them as a full set , thanks for your replyJayridium
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Hi Pete, glad you've taken my message as it was meant to be read
Its nice to have someone willing to spend the money on their freelander,replacing all the hoses with silocone ones now is an excellent idea, it will speed up the process of diagnosing your cars current woes and might save you another breakdown later on.
There are two variations of the TD4 engine in freelander 1's, essentially they are the same bar the addition of one more sensor unit in the turbo pipework, so you need to make sure you buy the correct set up of hoses for your vehicle. Fortunately the additional sensor is easily found being slightly right of vehicle centre at top of engine bay at front near bonnet catch. I'll post a couple of pictures below showing you the difference.
Nearly all the silicone hose kits on ebay etc overlook the turbo outlet hose:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICONE...EELANDER-1-TD4-NEW-UK-FAST-SHIP-/193073892320
If you want to otder yourself a set of hoses just now, that would be geat, but its going to be a pain having to wait until after christmas holidays (bah humbug) to get them leaving you without a car over the holidays. In the interim you could, purely as a temporart measure, check the turbo hoses for tears / cuts / slashes and tape up the offending one. Prime suspect is the one I put a yellow arrow pointing to it in my first post in this thread, and fortunately its about the easiest one to get onto.
Its nice to have someone willing to spend the money on their freelander,replacing all the hoses with silocone ones now is an excellent idea, it will speed up the process of diagnosing your cars current woes and might save you another breakdown later on.
There are two variations of the TD4 engine in freelander 1's, essentially they are the same bar the addition of one more sensor unit in the turbo pipework, so you need to make sure you buy the correct set up of hoses for your vehicle. Fortunately the additional sensor is easily found being slightly right of vehicle centre at top of engine bay at front near bonnet catch. I'll post a couple of pictures below showing you the difference.
Nearly all the silicone hose kits on ebay etc overlook the turbo outlet hose:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICONE...EELANDER-1-TD4-NEW-UK-FAST-SHIP-/193073892320
If you want to otder yourself a set of hoses just now, that would be geat, but its going to be a pain having to wait until after christmas holidays (bah humbug) to get them leaving you without a car over the holidays. In the interim you could, purely as a temporart measure, check the turbo hoses for tears / cuts / slashes and tape up the offending one. Prime suspect is the one I put a yellow arrow pointing to it in my first post in this thread, and fortunately its about the easiest one to get onto.
Morning chaps, right I've had a look at it , the pipe you highlighted indeed had a 3 inch split in it so taped that up just to see if any different, still wont start, egr not blocked had a look and fuel reaching injectors fine so where do I look next , could it be the timing chain that's slipped or anything like that ?Hi Pete, glad you've taken my message as it was meant to be read
Its nice to have someone willing to spend the money on their freelander,replacing all the hoses with silocone ones now is an excellent idea, it will speed up the process of diagnosing your cars current woes and might save you another breakdown later on.
There are two variations of the TD4 engine in freelander 1's, essentially they are the same bar the addition of one more sensor unit in the turbo pipework, so you need to make sure you buy the correct set up of hoses for your vehicle. Fortunately the additional sensor is easily found being slightly right of vehicle centre at top of engine bay at front near bonnet catch. I'll post a couple of pictures below showing you the difference.
Nearly all the silicone hose kits on ebay etc overlook the turbo outlet hose:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICONE...EELANDER-1-TD4-NEW-UK-FAST-SHIP-/193073892320
If you want to otder yourself a set of hoses just now, that would be geat, but its going to be a pain having to wait until after christmas holidays (bah humbug) to get them leaving you without a car over the holidays. In the interim you could, purely as a temporart measure, check the turbo hoses for tears / cuts / slashes and tape up the offending one. Prime suspect is the one I put a yellow arrow pointing to it in my first post in this thread, and fortunately its about the easiest one to get onto.
No it's unlikely to be the timing chain. It's more likely to be a split O ring on the HP regulator.
Jayridium
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- Pedronapper (Peterhead)
Evening @Petenic73 - Sorry its taken me a couple of days to pick up on this thread, Nodge is most likely right, si it will almost certainly be the orings on the fuel pressure sensor, I've taken the liberty of pulling out the appropriate pages of the Land rover workshop manual for you...Basically the orings on the regulator need the regulator removed, to get to it you've got to remove some of the turbo pipework and the starter motor, so I've grabbed those pages as well. They are big pictures screen shot' on a 4k monitor so the resolution should be good enough to print / read / see details on, and the page for the regulator mentions the starter so I've grabbed its page, and it also mentions the ducting so I've grabbed that page, they are all remove and refit on one page so not a massive job, and the regulator is on the front of the engine rather than the back so you'll have better access to it
