HGF - yay!

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bluedog333

Well-Known Member
Posts
5,436
Location
Henley on Thames, Oxfordshire
F*ck sake! Don’t need this at the moment. The 200tdi has developed a chuffing noise and gases pulsing from rear of block at HG level, so I’m guessing the gasket has failed between cylinder four and rear of engine? Supposedly a fairly common area.
I obviously need to get this sorted ASAP, but... if I was desperate (I am) could I risk a short journey in the old girl? Coolant and oil levels are both normal looking, no overheating.
I don’t want to, but I don’t have much choice.
 
I drove mine around 6 miles but it got worse very quickly and started leaking oil too. If you drive too far, however too far is?, Hot gasses can eat the head away I think I read somewhere.
Mine was fine but you could see a witness mark where the gas was travelling.
 
I drove mine around 6 miles but it got worse very quickly and started leaking oil too. If you drive too far, however too far is?, Hot gasses can eat the head away I think I read somewhere.
Mine was fine but you could see a witness mark where the gas was travelling.
About 5 miles each way. I’ve read stories of some going on for hundreds of miles and some not lasting many more at all! No oil yet, only gases. I’m hoping to get away with just a gasket as I can’t keep her off the road to get the head skimmed etc. A right bugger.
 
Have you done one before?
If not, tie the bonnet up to the windscreen and get a milk crate or something to stand on.
I used a razor blade type scraper to get as much gasket off as possible then polished it up with fine Emery paper.
 
Have you done one before?
If not, tie the bonnet up to the windscreen and get a milk crate or something to stand on.
I used a razor blade type scraper to get as much gasket off as possible then polished it up with fine Emery paper.
First time for me. I’ve got the workshop manual and YouTube to hand. I’ve ordered a gasket scraper and taken the day of tomorrow to do it.
Wish me luck.
 
It's a simple enough job BUT lots can go south especially around the turbo and exhaust area with seized, rusty and rounded off fixings.
If the block drain plug won't undo you will get water down the bores when you lift the head.
Make sure you soak up water/oil from the head bolt holes.
Depending on your engine bay layout, removing the windscreen washer bottle gives better access on mine.
Disconnect the battery before you start.
 
It's a simple enough job BUT lots can go south especially around the turbo and exhaust area with seized, rusty and rounded off fixings.
If the block drain plug won't undo you will get water down the bores when you lift the head.
Make sure you soak up water/oil from the head bolt holes.
Depending on your engine bay layout, removing the windscreen washer bottle gives better access on mine.
Disconnect the battery before you start.
Cheers for the tips. Hopefully the exhaust manifold and turbo will come off easy enough as they were off just over a year ago. Is there anything else I should be replacing whilst I’m doing the gasket? I’ve got gasket, exhaust gasket, head bolts, injector washers.
 
Cheers for the tips. Hopefully the exhaust manifold and turbo will come off easy enough as they were off just over a year ago. Is there anything else I should be replacing whilst I’m doing the gasket? I’ve got gasket, exhaust gasket, head bolts, injector washers.
If you get water in the engine because you couldn't get the drain plug out then oil and filter change.
Shine a torch down the pushrod tubes and check the followers for damage, I like to lap the valves too, depends how much time you have really.
 
If you get water in the engine because you couldn't get the drain plug out then oil and filter change.
Shine a torch down the pushrod tubes and check the followers for damage, I like to lap the valves too, depends how much time you have really.
Cheers Flossie. I don’t have much time, so I’ll do the bare necessities!
 
Short trip or two wont hurt it, I left one of mine so long the hot gases took the paint off the bulkhead!
 
Well she made it through the day. Out of interest, did you need to skim your head?

Nope never skimmed a 200 head, always used the old haad bolts as well, Iirc they can be reused uo to 5 times, and what are the chances of the head having been been off 5 times in the cars life?
Literally take it off, clean the faces up but not polished just clean, Elring head gasket, new manifold gasket and away they go.
 
Nope never skimmed a 200 head, always used the old haad bolts as well, Iirc they can be reused uo to 5 times, and what are the chances of the head having been been off 5 times in the cars life?
Literally take it off, clean the faces up but not polished just clean, Elring head gasket, new manifold gasket and away they go.
Cheers Lynall. I could only get hold of a Victor Reinz gasket in the time I had, supposed to be ok too.
 
Cheers Lynall. I could only get hold of a Victor Reinz gasket in the time I had, supposed to be ok too.

I reckon so long as it a named make and not britpart/bearmach etc then it will be just fine.
Tbh if I was desperate I would use whatever was to hand!
 
I reckon so long as it a named make and not britpart/bearmach etc then it will be just fine.
Tbh if I was desperate I would use whatever was to hand!
I was talking about the impending task to a customer, he fondly remembers cutting a head gasket out from a Sunday Times magazine for his Mini, back in the 70’s. The local part shop was closed for the weekend. He sold it 50,000 miles later, with no issues.
 
The main thing is to make sure the threaded holes in the block for the bolts are clear of any liquids.
Dont lose valve stem lash caps, smear some sealant of the rocker gasket D seals.

I have used cornflake packets to make gaskets for motorcyles, as for some reason any motorycle gasket was seriously expensive when I was a kid.
 
Just coming on to back Lynall's posts and to say give it ago, not a hard job but follow the manual and do the correct tightening sequence for the head bolts
up to the correct torque and then the angle stages. Good luck.
 
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