brianp38dse
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The pictured bit is the anti rollbar.
P38A Help ??????
- Thread starter pete12345
- Start date
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Ok cheers at least i won't need one of them will just respray it
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Open ended spanner and turn the bolt via the head with a suitable 12 pan socket. 
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Cheers my bloody spanner didn't go in that gap I may have to cut the bracket off I wasn't sure if it was welded that side still got to get myself a socket for the other side anyway none of mine fit
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Viscous coupling? Do you mean constant velocity joint?
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/87921/88041
Click on the subheadings & then the blue number on the part.
Usually prudent to replace seals if you've got things apart.
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/87921/88041
Click on the subheadings & then the blue number on the part.
Usually prudent to replace seals if you've got things apart.
Datatek
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It looks as though you need to replace the oil seal on he axle especially as you have it all apart.
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Ive landed an upper and lower ball joint job today with new seals as a matter of course for a client's P38.
Big clamp time!! He's already putting release oil around the hub and abs sensors waiting for the parts.
So I'll be doing the same as yourself plus the ball joints.
Big clamp time!! He's already putting release oil around the hub and abs sensors waiting for the parts.
So I'll be doing the same as yourself plus the ball joints.
Last edited:
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Im doing ball joints aswell and thanks for the advice on oil seal and big washer I think you will have the job done long before me as I'm complete novice and stuck at home so may aswell find something to do but will probably wait till I return to work before laying out funds on new parts I don't think my partner would ever understand that she struggles to understand when I'm at work
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And thanks ratae that link looks helpful for the novice I am
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When you look at the bottom ball joint nut that holds it in, there is also a collar that adjusts the height of the hub assembly, DO NOT adjust the collar. It will have been adjusted to suit the seal as well. If you adjust it by mistake you'll be forever chewing one face of the seal, upper or lower. So no no no! You going to need a big bush removal tool or something heavy and similar. The ball joints take a little persuasion to move. Pressure, heat and a few taps from a mallet hell to move them if they are really stuck in place. The top ball joint does go up and down in its cup. The bottom ball joint doesn't at all.
There are only three times the ball joints can be replaced before the holes are too stretched. Check for markings in the axle case near the ball joint holes. I've seen them welded into the holes
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My mistake mark I'm not attempting the ball joints I've no press I ment front bearings
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Are you getting the bearing assembly and carrier or just the bearing. The bearing and carrier assembly is easier... Ish to do but the bearing needs a good press to shift 'em.
Don't be sorry, be prepared
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I was thinking of getting the carrier & bearing already assembled a decent one or do you think you should go with original on shuchan important part
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I've got a feeling a firm in Birmingham does them with a Timken bearing for a very reasonable price. @MrGorsky might know.
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Cheers grrrr yer 200 a pop with the timken bearing
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Thats why the last one lasted all this time
