Freelander 2 (LR2) Help! Won’t start after fuel filter change

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Dart2050

Member
Posts
15
Location
Gloucestershire
Changed my diesel fuel filter today hoping would be easy as I did it two years ago with no problem. This time front was on ramps as I’d also changed oil and I could not start it after finishing servicing. I remembered that sometimes a vacuum pump is needed (didn’t need one last time) and I think that whilst on ramp fuel returned to tank and cranking it I put more air into system, damn! So I bought a vacuum tool and managed to get fuel to car filter outflow. Would not start. So, Onto injectors, while my son cranked the engine I loosened and watched each one until fuel came through on each one. Still won’t start. Stuck now, any ideas please?
 
I find there's enough room to get at the oil filter and drain plug, without the need for ramps. ;)

Having the vehicle level or slightly front down hill is best when changing the fuel filter, as it minimises the fuel retuning to the tank.

However it's almost always necessary to use a manual pump to prime the fuel system, carefully following the instructions that come with the manual pump.
Also only original equipment filters should be used (they have Purflux on them), as aftermarket filters can have issues.

Something you should NEVER EVER DO, is to loosen the injector union nuts. The fuel system on a common rail injection system can be at 25,000 PSI, which if it were to spray fuel at your skin, it'll literally inject diesel into your blood, with fatal consequences. :eek:

Additional the fuel pipes are a once tighten design, so any that were released, will now need replacing, or they can come apart in use, with potentially disastrous consequences.

If it was starting before you did the filter, and it isn't now, then it suggests there is air in the system, which will need purging through, with the manual pump, and not by cracking injector union nuts.
 
I find there's enough room to get at the oil filter and drain plug, without the need for ramps. ;)

Having the vehicle level or slightly front down hill is best when changing the fuel filter, as it minimises the fuel retuning to the tank.

However it's almost always necessary to use a manual pump to prime the fuel system, carefully following the instructions that come with the manual pump.
Also only original equipment filters should be used (they have Purflux on them), as aftermarket filters can have issues.

Something you should NEVER EVER DO, is to loosen the injector union nuts. The fuel system on a common rail injection system can be at 25,000 PSI, which if it were to spray fuel at your skin, it'll literally inject diesel into your blood, with fatal consequences. :eek:

Additional the fuel pipes are a once tighten design, so any that were released, will now need replacing, or they can come apart in use, with potentially disastrous consequences.

If it was starting before you did the filter, and it isn't now, then it suggests there is air in the system, which will need purging through, with the manual pump, and not by cracking injector union nuts.
Thank you for this information. I followed a ‘Poweful Uk ‘ iTube video for the filter replacement and also using vacuum pump which is where I saw the injector nuts loosened. Also had gloves on but appreciate your warnings. Interestingly tge first time I did this two years ago, the car was facing slightly down hill and I didn’t have any trouble starting afterwards so clearly you are right
 
Couple of videos on how not to do the fuel filter change, the change over was ok but they did not prime the fuel filter,

The next one shows how they had or tried to solve it not starting after the fuel filter change.


You do need to prime the filter with a bulb pump.
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1

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2

Their videos are always worth having a look at, you can learn from their mistakes which are many.
 
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