help with vic check for my 90

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whiteakita

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3
Hi, I recently got a 2007 defender 90 puma and when I went to tax it found out it needs a vic check.
After some reading it seems they just check the numbers, problem is the last 4 numbers on the chassis are unreadable, it looks like it has rusted slightly and warped the metal slightly.
Is this going to be a fail ? Can I just re stamp the last 4 digits ?
The vin numbers in the windscreen match the log book and what I can see of what's visable of the chassis numbers.
I'm not sure about the engine numbers as I can't open the bonnet as the cable has snapped.
 
Opening the bonnet is a few minutes work and they will want to see the engine anyway.
I can read the chassis number on my 93 model, there are also other numbers stamped around the chassis.
Stamping will land you in a world of ****.
 
My job today is to get the bonnet open, can someone tell me how with a completely snapped cable ?
I read somewhere that on the 2007 puma cars that I need to remove the grill, i tried but the bottom 2 screws were just spinning, it didn't look like it would of made any difference anyway as the radiator is about 2mm behind it and looks bigger than the grill.
so do you think that it may still pass the way it is ?
It also says silver on the log book and its now been painted green.
 
Sounds a bit like it's going my to fail, get the bonnet open. Post up a photo of the chassis number.

Why would an 07 need a VIC?
 
Is it stolen recovered ? Or cat c crash damaged?

Sounds like the chassis numbers been tampered with.

My 87 was rusty as hell , but a wire wheel in a grinder removed the rust and i was able to read the numbers clear as day,....

Sounds dodgier than a string bag of fish anyhoo
 
Is it stolen recovered ? Or cat c crash damaged?


Sounds dodgier than a string bag of fish anyhoo

My thoughts exactly. Mine needed a VIC and they definitely wanted the bonnet open. From what it sounds like the car doesn't even sound like it's drivable? It also needs a current MOT certificate.
 
Re your vic , bonnet and all other doors, etc must open . The vehicle must be in a safe drivable condition , and start up and switch off. Not a good idea to try and enhance the VIN stamp. Colour is not a reason to fail , although it will be checked against DVLA data .
The VIN stamp could be a problem , depending on all the other things that will be checked it may be OK or it may not if they don't all correlate . There is quite a delay in VIC appointments , more so in some areas , and depending on how far you are willing or can travel . If driven to the test site it must have mot and insurance , although need not be road taxed. HTSH
 
Sorry don't mean to hijack Thread. Would like to ask has anyone had to patch where VIN is stamped on chassis if so what did you do? I.e restamp reason I ask my 1993 Defender 99 chassis has had patches welded where VIN would be.
 
Sorry don't mean to hijack Thread. Would like to ask has anyone had to patch where VIN is stamped on chassis if so what did you do? I.e restamp reason I ask my 1993 Defender 99 chassis has had patches welded where VIN would be.


That sounds a bit dodgy! Don't imagine it's going to be straight-forward. Someone will be along shortly to make it all clear! ( I know feck all !).
 
That sounds a bit dodgy! Don't imagine it's going to be straight-forward. Someone will be along shortly to make it all clear! ( I know feck all !).

Yeah I know it does that's why before I bought it I did a full check! It's never been reported stolen or accident damaged. The report showed previous MoT failures and passes it failed once for excessive corrosion in steering component mounting area i.e where the patch is.
 
My car drives perfect and has 12 month mot. I knew the bonnet needs to be open for the vic, i haven't got round to fixing it yet but I don't know how to fix it either!
The last 4 numbers don't look to me like they have been tampered with but they are unreadable, the metal looks like it has started to corrode from the inside and gone slightly uneven but with no signs of rust on the surface.
 
Sorry don't mean to hijack Thread. Would like to ask has anyone had to patch where VIN is stamped on chassis if so what did you do? I.e restamp reason I ask my 1993 Defender 99 chassis has had patches welded where VIN would be.

There is no need to restamp , as if subject to a check it will be apparent that
the area where the vin is normally stamped has been modified. If you stamp the number adjacent it wont be correct so its up to you , as it wont have any real legal standing .
 
My car drives perfect and has 12 month mot. I knew the bonnet needs to be open for the vic, i haven't got round to fixing it yet but I don't know how to fix it either!
The last 4 numbers don't look to me like they have been tampered with but they are unreadable, the metal looks like it has started to corrode from the inside and gone slightly uneven but with no signs of rust on the surface.

If it fails the initial vic there are further means that will be used , just that it might involve a bit of further inconvenience to you and takes longer .

Re the bonnet , you need to get it open , as you already know, and it will then most likely need a new cable to replace the old one.
HTSH
 
There is no need to restamp , as if subject to a check it will be apparent that
the area where the vin is normally stamped has been modified. If you stamp the number adjacent it wont be correct so its up to you , as it wont have any real legal standing .

Thanks for clearing that up for me tacr2man. I'm not going to stamp it as everything else ties in when I had the check done and was issued a V5 with no problem. I am going to remove the patches at some point as they are quite crudely done and want to do them properly. I'll see if any of chassis number remains when I do.
 
My car drives perfect and has 12 month mot. I knew the bonnet needs to be open for the vic, i haven't got round to fixing it yet but I don't know how to fix it either!
The last 4 numbers don't look to me like they have been tampered with but they are unreadable, the metal looks like it has started to corrode from the inside and gone slightly uneven but with no signs of rust on the surface.

Found this whiteakita hopefully it'll help you.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/snapped-bonnet-release-cable-bonnet-still-locked-58187.html
 
On the TD5 I've had success in releasing the bonnet using an L shaped piece of metal (an Allen key clamped in a mole wrench) to the driver's side of the central latch where there's a hole in the slam panel. With the arm of the L pointing downwards you can move the catch slightly and release the bonnet. I don't know if the Puma is similar, but this works on earlier models.
 
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