robbiemcvee
Active Member
- Posts
- 116
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Help with my bent rear door
- Thread starter robbiemcvee
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,013
- Location
- west wales coast
Check out LR parts for spares. If the frame of the door is not to bad and fixable new skins are available.
doriz
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,312
That is class - just wear it as a battle scar, the inside is worse. Get a bit of 3x2 and a rubber mallet and knock the skin out job done.
- Posts
- 4,522
DoH !
No pocket money for him this week and he's buying you a new door for xmas ....
No pocket money for him this week and he's buying you a new door for xmas ....
robbiemcvee
Active Member
- Posts
- 116
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
ive just taken the door card off and its as rotten as an old pear - so its going to have to be replaced i think
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,270
As long as the spars okay as mentioned just warm up the panel and beat back. I suspect your lad didn't drive at full pelt from the image.
robbiemcvee
Active Member
- Posts
- 116
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
it was more of a roll down the hill and panic sort of moment...
doriz
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,312
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,219
- Location
- Wiltshire
You did explain to you son…
You bend it,you mend it? This is a good way for them to learn spanners & hammers.
you can get replacement parts for the door frames. You just need to weld in
You bend it,you mend it? This is a good way for them to learn spanners & hammers.
you can get replacement parts for the door frames. You just need to weld in
robbiemcvee
Active Member
- Posts
- 116
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
oh yeah - im sure he'll lend a hand, he's a good lad really - poor driver though ;-)
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Looks like it's got a spare wheel pattern to the dent!
If the steel bars inside were ok the skin would probably knock out ok. I've had all three of mine off the frames. If the frame is a bit rotten then you could weld new bits of frame in. If it's very rotten then it's a new door. If you're landy is a keeper I'd invest in a galvanised one.
If the steel bars inside were ok the skin would probably knock out ok. I've had all three of mine off the frames. If the frame is a bit rotten then you could weld new bits of frame in. If it's very rotten then it's a new door. If you're landy is a keeper I'd invest in a galvanised one.
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,436
- Location
- Henley on Thames, Oxfordshire
Did the skin come off and go back on easy enough? I need to get new rear passenger doors, but I want to keep the skins as the decals are no longer available (and it’ll be cheaper!).
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Yes, they did surprisingly!
I bought a set of pry bars like these LINKY and used the small one to pry the edge of the skin up. I took the skin just over the 90 degrees so it would lift off. I think galv doors were very much in their infancy, if available at all. What I should have done was got the frames galvanised. What I did instead was get them plastic coated. I then filled them with dinitrol. The skins just sat back on and the edges folded over no bother. I had them painted in a paint shop after that. That was seven years ago, but the frames are going already
EDIT
@bluedog333
I've been looking through my rebuild pictures and it's reminded me that the skins on my new doors were also glued on. The skins came away no bother though (They were Britpart mind!)
This is the adhesive being scraped off the skin.
Frame with industrial plastic coating.
Full of dinitrol
Skin back on
I should have galvanised the frames
Last edited:
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,436
- Location
- Henley on Thames, Oxfordshire
Cheers for the info chap! I’m going to get galvanised frames as a minimum requirement, I still may go down the fully galvanised frame and skin route, as the ally corrosion may be to far gone to stop, at least for one of my doors.Yes, they did surprisingly!
I bought a set of pry bars like these LINKY and used the small one to pry the edge of the skin up. I took the skin just over the 90 degrees so it would lift off. I think galv doors were very much in their infancy, if available at all. What I should have done was got the frames galvanised. What I did instead was get them plastic coated. I then filled them with dinitrol. The skins just sat back on and the edges folded over no bother. I had them painted in a paint shop after that. That was seven years ago, but the frames are going already
EDIT
@bluedog333
I've been looking through my rebuild pictures and it's reminded me that the skins on my new doors were also glued on. The skins came away no bother though (They were Britpart mind!)
This is the adhesive being scraped off the skin.
View attachment 251243
Frame with industrial plastic coating.
View attachment 251244
Full of dinitrol
View attachment 251245
Skin back on
View attachment 251246
I should have galvanised the frames
Good to know that the skin removal is very much doable!
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
No bother mate. I should take mine off again and get the frames galvanised before they're too far gone.
Good luck with yours 
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,901
- Location
- Sligo,Wild West of Ireland.
There's a guy in NI. That makes them. He's on here but I can't remember his name. Do a search on rear doors and his name will come up in one.
Try a comapny that makes the doors and are located in Liverpool. Their name is SP panels or use www.sp-4x4.com. They do new doors in Ali or steel and galv frames too or for about £100 there are front door skins too.
