Help, what did I do ?

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Skinny Mike said:
By afm do you mean maf. If so just unplug it to test it, doing this forces a default reading.
If face lifts have another sensor, I'm unaware of this.
Mike
Click to expand...
The face lift has an extra sensor which measures the boosted air into the engine. All other sensors are the same as far as I can tell.
 
The MAP Sensor on the inlet manifold, Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor.

I also strengthened the flimsy wiring going into the back of the connector to the Cam Sensor with some more "Plastic Padding Super Steel" as there is a bit of movement in them and they are the same wafer thin rubbish as the broken wires on the Boost Air Temp Sensor I fixed yesterday.
 
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Hello mate. Sorry my earlier post with error codes is highly confusing, I re-read it, it's bollox.
To be clearer,
P1E30 - Short Circuit to V Battery +ve(???)

This relates to the earth connection on either the fuel pump relay or on the ECU. So the engine cranks, but gets a bad earth signal from the ecu and will not start.
Check your earth's and earth pins, a continuity test should do it.
Again, apologies for my earlier crappy post. I fully understand this must be driving you mad.
Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
Smashing, something else to go wrong :confused:
Mike
Click to expand...
Sensor under discussion is the intake air temp sensor - on prefacelifts, it's incorporated in the MAF, so still there to go wrong!

Rocky, what fuel pressure readings are you getting during cranking? Fault codes are useful, but live data is the way to solve a knotty problem like this.
 
Scanner resets when you crank so can't tell.

Skinny Mike :-
Any idea where the earth is located, have lifted up the engine fuse box and can't see a separate connector for each yellow relay, google suggest it earth's through ECU but can't find anything in Haynes manual etc on where it is.

Thanks,
 
image.png



This gives a general idea of earth locations. If you want to know more about a specific connector, let me know as the manual has photographs of the positions as well as details of what is being earthed where.
 
Fitted a brand new Bosch Air Flow Meter, reset codes first with scanner, rescanned and same error and obviously truck still doesn't start.

Thats 2 new parts I have bought now and a repair made to a broken wire and still no fix.

Am wondering if the short circuit fault is triggering false codes in scanner.
 
The earth wire that really needs checking is on the connection socket to the ecu, in the L shaped box in the engine. The diagram I sent last night shows which pins are the earth. It's a **** to do, but the code is related to that.

Another idea that jumped to mind, have you checked the inertia switch, it might have tripped while you were messing with the engine. Look in your Haynes manual, page 4B 16 bottom right corner. I doubt it will be this, but it's free to check it:)
Mike
 
I know the switch is under the ECU area and is a big red thing but I know nothing about it, will it be obvious if it has tripped ?

Does it stick out or something or do I press it like a reset button ?
 
Rocky Ward said:
I know the switch is under the ECU area and is a big red thing but I know nothing about it, will it be obvious if it has tripped ?

Does it stick out or something or do I press it like a reset button ?
Click to expand...
Push the red button in. If it clicks, it's popped out accidentally.
If the car unlocks when the ignition is turned, the red button has popped. I suspect it's OK anyway as it also inhibits the back fuel pump, which is working.
 
Inertia switch was fine, my next move it to use the wiring diagram for the ECU / EMU's bank of connectors and check all the earths and inputs.

At this rate if I don't get anywhere soon, I shall have to concede defeat and call in a mobile auto electrician.

I hate losing especially to electronics ;-)
 
I think I am getting somewhere now.

There is no earth on pin 9 in first block on the ECM Harness C0603, this is described as the Main Relay Earth.

Tested it with ignition on and off and with all connectors unplugged and plugged in by testing at back of connector.

I think the ECU creates the earth as it is described as an output, so I could cut the wire in the loom and feed directly from a suitable alternative earth location and leave the wire from 9 pin loose, question is should I do that or is that a major mistake ?

I have replaced the glow plug relay and the AFM with new ones and the scanner still flags them, so I am wondering if they are false readings all caused by 1 wiring fault.

The 3 earth inputs all tested ok as did the 2 voltage inputs.

Thanks
 
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I think I said earlier it might be worth trying to source an engine loom from a car the same age. I'm not sure what a Freelander loom is like but other cars I've worked on they are easy enough to change.
 
Not a chance, I'm sorry but thats not the right way to go with it.

Firstly there is no guarantee its the loom, secondly I would not trust a kid at a dismantles to cleanly removes a loom from a scrap car and thirdly it might be just faulty as mine.

I think the only course of action is to fix mine, then pass the knowledge on, it would seem that TD4s are blighted with starting issues that are misdiagnosed.

I shall be cutting the wire on pin 9 tomorrow afternoon and bypassing the ECU output earth to supply an earth to the Main Relay unless someone tells me why thats a bad idea.

Thanks all, Karl.
 
I guess that makes sense. I have a scrappy near me that will let me work on the car so I could guarantee the work if not the loom but the chances of having the same fault on two looms is pretty low. If you don't have that luxury then your probably right.
Might be worth checking your pos is switched before hard wiring the earth, or probably makes sense to wire it through a switch.
 
You cannot damage the wiring by splicing into an earth. Everything eventually ends up earthed.
Just do it so you can put it back if it doesn't work.

On dodgy codes, I'm fighting a gearbox problem, but due to a bad connection / earth my code reader just tell me I have a loss of power to display binnacle!
Both myself and @Nodge68 have had abs fault codes that are spurious.
Electronic devices are great to help find faults, until your electrics play up:confused:
Mike
 
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