Help! Series 3 Intermittent Stalling

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wingertzahn

Member
Posts
12
Location
Salisbury
(Posted also on Series Forum) OK so this is an intermittent problem where my 1979 Landy Series 3 just splutters and dies. It has been going on for over a year but is now becoming more frequent. Before I ask for advice: I’ve replaced the fuel tank, checked breathers and filters, replaced the fuel pump (mechanical) and removed disassembled cleaned, serviced and refitted the Weber 34 ICH carb. So I’d be surprised if it’s fuel starvation. On the ignition side have fitted new alternator, new coil and last year fitted an electronic ignition. And still it happens. I can SOMETIMES tell its going to happen because the engine tone includes a sort of fluttering sound and it starts to struggle just a little on hills. It also SOMETIMES seems to be induced after I’ve driven on rough ground either off-road or on an uneven/pot-holed road (and even then it doesn’t stall immediately). So I’ve also checked around for loose components but can’t immediately see anything. When a stall occurs I just wait for between 2 and 10 minutes and then she starts up again and off I go sometimes running normally for a few days, sometimes stalling again just a few minutes later. I’m at the end of my tether and limit of knowledge now. Any wise people out there lead me to the next steps (or perhaps identify the problem!)???
 
I would have pointed to the alternator but if you’re replaced it, possible culprit could be the connections from the solenoid. I’m actually suffering with the same problem which started a few weeks ago. Even though my alternator is only three years I’m going to replace it. Discussed it with my landy garage and they’ve tested everything else. Alternator’s are reconditioned not necessarily brand new and no reason they can’t have an internal fault.
 
Sticking with fuel and air for a minute, have you had a good look at the inlet side, looking at the big air filter - carb hose for signs of collapse, birds nests etc..? How is the vacuum advance pipework? Vac pipe to the brake servo?

When you stripped the carb, did you open up and clean the internal filter? I got caught by that one, assuming that it was just a fuel in connection.
 
I would have pointed to the alternator but if you’re replaced it, possible culprit could be the connections from the solenoid. I’m actually suffering with the same problem which started a few weeks ago. Even though my alternator is only three years I’m going to replace it. Discussed it with my landy garage and they’ve tested everything else. Alternator’s are reconditioned not necessarily brand new and no reason they can’t have an internal fault.
It’s definitely not the alternator. However, on another thread a kindly fellow suggested it might be a fault in the ignition circuit so to isolate it I ran a direct connection from the battery through a switch in the cab to the solenoid. So far she has run very well over several long journeys and a variety of terrain. Lead me to think it’s probably burnt or sticky connections in the ignition switch itself. I’m running her on the bypass for the next month and if all is well I intend to replace the ignition switch. Here’s hoping!!
 
It’s definitely not the alternator. However, on another thread a kindly fellow suggested it might be a fault in the ignition circuit so to isolate it I ran a direct connection from the battery through a switch in the cab to the solenoid. So far she has run very well over several long journeys and a variety of terrain. Lead me to think it’s probably burnt or sticky connections in the ignition switch itself. I’m running her on the bypass for the next month and if all is well I intend to replace the ignition switch. Here’s hoping!!
When you see how the wiring is squashed together and jammed into a space that's too small for it, you won't be surprised that individual wires fail. Likewise, the switches aren't exactly the most robust devices either.
 
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