Help....P38 Interior lights always on

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While I care not a jot what John70 thingy has to say, I saw this had been revised (whatever) and found I had the same fault.

I will, to the best of my ability, reply with any relevant information and faults found so others behind me can learn and repair from my findings.

There is nothing worse than following a thread and when you "think" you have found the answer, it turns out to be .........................

:eek:o_O:(:confused::mad:

I hope my problem is caused by wetness or some such.

Watch this space :cool:
 
Doo said:
While I care not a jot what John70 thingy has to say, I saw this had been revised (whatever) and found I had the same fault.

I will, to the best of my ability, reply with any relevant information and faults found so others behind me can learn and repair from my findings.

There is nothing worse than following a thread and when you "think" you have found the answer, it turns out to be .........................

:eek:o_O:(:confused::mad:

I hope my problem is caused by wetness or some such.

Watch this space :cool:
Click to expand...
Tena pants can help with wetness apparently:D
 
Doo said:
Already did that Mr W, the puddle lights went off, but the three main interior lights remain lit!
Click to expand...
So you are saying the interior lights are on at all times regardless of opening and closing a door and cannot be switched off manually? Have you pressed the front lamp centre button until the dash signals lights ON?
 
wammers said:
So you are saying the interior lights are on at all times regardless of opening and closing a door and cannot be switched off manually? Have you pressed the front lamp centre button until the dash signals lights ON?
Click to expand...

Both on and off!

I pulled fuse 15 but even though the lights went off, the battery "still" went flat. Nothing to do with the keyfob receiver either as it's never given bother in the two and a half years I've had the car, but as it is, removing fuse 15 also cuts off the receiver and I had to use the key in the lock.

Anyhoo, yesterday I stripped bits off. The door is dry, no wires chaffing, no broken wires. The plugs at the bottom of the "A" pillar are all clean apart from one with a tiny grotty bit, but it's to do with the window which works. I started pulling plugs from the BECM and when I pulled a particular one, the front centre and rear right light went out, leaving the rear left still lit!

Gave up, disconnected the earth and came in....
 
Doo said:
Both on and off!

I pulled fuse 15 but even though the lights went off, the battery "still" went flat. Nothing to do with the keyfob receiver either as it's never given bother in the two and a half years I've had the car, but as it is, removing fuse 15 also cuts off the receiver and I had to use the key in the lock.

Anyhoo, yesterday I stripped bits off. The door is dry, no wires chaffing, no broken wires. The plugs at the bottom of the "A" pillar are all clean apart from one with a tiny grotty bit, but it's to do with the window which works. I started pulling plugs from the BECM and when I pulled a particular one, the front centre and rear right light went out, leaving the rear left still lit!

Gave up, disconnected the earth and came in....
Click to expand...

Think you need to read Rave owners manual. Even if the interior lamps are on automatic. (Set as ON on message centre). If any are switched on manually they must be switched off manually they will not automatically go out.
 
wammers said:
Think you need to read Rave owners manual. Even if the interior lamps are on automatic. (Set as ON on message centre). If any are switched on manually they must be switched off manually they will not automatically go out.
Click to expand...

Like I said, this all seemed to start with the tailgate switch. The lights would come on or off at each pot hole, cats eye or bump on the road surface that shook the car sufficiently. I disconnected the switch at the tailgate latch, but this only seemed to make the lights stay on permanently!!!
 
Doo said:
Like I said, this all seemed to start with the tailgate switch. The lights would come on or off at each pot hole, cats eye or bump on the road surface that shook the car sufficiently. I disconnected the switch at the tailgate latch, but this only seemed to make the lights stay on permanently!!!
Click to expand...

Best connect it back up then?!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Best connect it back up then?!
Click to expand...

I did, made little difference! Possible the constant off/on has damaged the BECM.

Personally, I think something may have burned out, such as a transistor, leaving the "switching" permanent on. Or perhaps if it's a relay involved, it's melted to permanent on...
 
Doo said:
Like I said, this all seemed to start with the tailgate switch. The lights would come on or off at each pot hole, cats eye or bump on the road surface that shook the car sufficiently. I disconnected the switch at the tailgate latch, but this only seemed to make the lights stay on permanently!!!
Click to expand...

Would have thought that was an obvious tailgate switch problem. Look for FRQ100550.
 
wammers said:
Would have thought that was an obvious tailgate switch problem. Look for FRQ100550.
Click to expand...

But surely disconnecting it should have bypassed it?? Or pressing & holding the centre button on the front interior lamps should have switched everything off?? I know I'm having a blonde moment, but right now I can't see the wood for all the tree's :confused:

Is that a part number? If so, where do I look? And thank you for putting up with my continued thickness :p
 
Doo said:
But surely disconnecting it should have bypassed it?? Or pressing & holding the centre button on the front interior lamps should have switched everything off?? I know I'm having a blonde moment, but right now I can't see the wood for all the tree's :confused:

Is that a part number? If so, where do I look? And thank you for putting up with my continued thickness :p
Click to expand...

Yes it is look here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQR100550 but you may prefer Ebay.

If you press the centre button on the front lamp for 10 seconds or so you can switch the interior lamps to ON or OFF. OFF they must be switched on and off manually. ON they are switched on and off automatically when you open and close doors. IF the lamps are set at ON (automatic operation) and you switch one on manually you must switch it off manually. Even if the lamps are set to auto, if you switch one on manually you must switch it off manually it will not go out on it's own and will stay on when you close the door and lock up.
 
From RAVE.


COURTESY AND MAP READING LIGHTS
Manual operation
Press the appropriate switch to turn the lights
on - press a second time to turn off.

NOTE: The front courtesy light switch
will also operate the rear courtesy lights.

Automatic operation.

The front and rear courtesy lights illuminate
automatically whenever a door or tailgate is
opened, and remain illuminated for
approximately 15 seconds after the doors and
tailgate are closed or until the starter switch is
turned on.

If a door or the tailgate remains open for ten
minutes or more, a ’time out’ function will
extinguish the courtesy lights in order to
prevent the battery from discharging.

NOTE: If the rear courtesy lights or map
reading lights are left on after being manually
operated, they will NOT extinguish
automatically.


To cancel automatic operation:

Press and hold the front courtesy light switch
until a tone sounds and the message
centre displays ’INT LIGHTS OFF’.
Repeat the procedure to re-activate automatic
operation (a tone sounds and the message
centre displays ’INT LIGHTS ON’).
 
wammers said:
From RAVE.


COURTESY AND MAP READING LIGHTS
Manual operation
Press the appropriate switch to turn the lights
on - press a second time to turn off.

NOTE: The front courtesy light switch
will also operate the rear courtesy lights.

Automatic operation.

The front and rear courtesy lights illuminate
automatically whenever a door or tailgate is
opened, and remain illuminated for
approximately 15 seconds after the doors and
tailgate are closed or until the starter switch is
turned on.

If a door or the tailgate remains open for ten
minutes or more, a ’time out’ function will
extinguish the courtesy lights in order to
prevent the battery from discharging.

NOTE: If the rear courtesy lights or map
reading lights are left on after being manually
operated, they will NOT extinguish
automatically.


To cancel automatic operation:

Press and hold the front courtesy light switch
until a tone sounds and the message
centre displays ’INT LIGHTS OFF’.
Repeat the procedure to re-activate automatic
operation (a tone sounds and the message
centre displays ’INT LIGHTS ON’).
Click to expand...

That's the thing, mine stay on all the time whether or not I have them on auto or manual.

If I play with the tailgate (pulling at it when it's closed on the latch) I can sometimes get them to go off. But even disconnecting the latch switch makes no odds, they stay on. Only pulling fuse 15 kills them.
 
Doo said:
That's the thing, mine stay on all the time whether or not I have them on auto or manual.
If I play with the tailgate (pulling at it when it's closed on the latch) I can sometimes get them to go off. But even disconnecting the latch switch makes no odds, they stay on. Only pulling fuse 15 kills them.
Click to expand...

When it comes to electrikery @martyuk is a master. I think he trained with some electric monks on some mountain in NZ.
 
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Doo said:
That's the thing, mine stay on all the time whether or not I have them on auto or manual.

If I play with the tailgate (pulling at it when it's closed on the latch) I can sometimes get them to go off. But even disconnecting the latch switch makes no odds, they stay on. Only pulling fuse 15 kills them.
Click to expand...

Change the fooking latch switch. They go off when the switch is closed circuit and come on when it's open circuit. Unplugging feed causes open circuit. Close the circuit on the plug and see what you get. Then change the fooking latch switch.
 
wammers said:
Change the fooking latch switch. They go off when the switch is closed circuit and come on when it's open circuit. Unplugging feed causes open circuit. Close the circuit on the plug and see what you get. Then change the fooking latch switch.
Click to expand...

Well that's more like it :D I'll change the fookin switch...:p

I looked at the price of a new one and almost shat myself! 250 quid!!! For a tiny little thing made of plastic encased in metal! They are mental :eek:

I'll try a "pre-owned" one as the local Mercedes dealer used to advertise 2nd hand cars :D

Looks like I'll be visiting my mate Jarv then :rolleyes:

I did a code reading (using my bluetooth OBD hoodgy that I read with my phone) and it said 4 faults stored. One being MAF, but it was brand new very recently, Bosch at a cost of 170 quid :confused: Surely it has to be wrong! I'm betting my air leak is back at that stupid bloody tee piece from the IACV as it only really affects the LPG side of things and a weaker mix would certainly cause my missing under load feeling. The other suggested I have a 0200 injection fault (but LR fault codes for each individual injector is 0201 to 0208 I think...) could that simply be the engine had switched to LPG and the injector system was off? The others said something about power train which kind of meant both of the above just in a different way.

The only other thing is the ABS & TC fault when I reverse. I'm thinking bearing, but equally it could be the sensor doesn't "like" reversing wheels... Thoughts?

Soon as I switch off and restart the lights go off but the dash is still insisting on a TC fault. Where to start with that one?

I'm guessing all are happening at the same time, but unlikely connected then?!?!
 
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