Jacks026
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Breakdown of new estimate-
Supply and fit rear main oil seal- £540
Parts- rear main oil seal £17.90
Vat £100 odd
Help, oil leak
- Thread starter Jacks026
- Start date
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Supply and fit rear main oil seal- £540
Parts- rear main oil seal £17.90
Vat £100 odd
freelance
Well-Known Member
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If it needs a seal, did it really need the other work, and if you have the seal changed it would be silly not to fit a clutch( depending on mileage) unless it's an auto?
Arctic2
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Personally I would take it somewhere else, maybe a Landrover place to have it checked over before even having any work carried out,
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
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- Inverness
Why do they want to replace the main oil seal - did the other job not cure the leak?
Agreed. Sounds like it was misdiagnosed to start with.
That's the best plan imho. A failed rear oil seal is easy to diagnose. I can't see why there's such difficulty in doing so.
I'd also be popping into the CAB to see if there's any way you can claim some of the repair costs back from the original seller. He's obviously sold the vehicle on knowing it was faulty.
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
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Agree with Nodge. If the breather is blocked, oil will be leaking from many joints and there will be pressure from the oil filler and dipstick hole. If the only the rear main seal is faulty (common problem apparently) then, of course, only that will be leaking.
Looks like your garage might be making you pay for their mistakes. Get a second opinion from a decent independent LR place or a main dealer and then make moves to claim some money back if they agree the original work was unnecessary.
Looks like your garage might be making you pay for their mistakes. Get a second opinion from a decent independent LR place or a main dealer and then make moves to claim some money back if they agree the original work was unnecessary.
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The FL2 doesn't have a crankcase filter, only a separator that returns the oil to the sump and any gases back through the induction system.
Although this job is specified in the service routine, the Land Rover workshop manual makes no reference to the procedure for changing it. The filter is housed inside the depression limiter valve casing on top of the engine. To reach it you’ll need to remove the air filter element cover and engine top cover, then unbolt the injector harness support rail and tilt it forward out of the way. The depression limiter valve assembly is between the injector harness and the air filter casing. It’s black plastic with two circular shapes, like a figure eight on its side.
Depression limiter valve assembly (arrowed) is unscrewed
Remove the screws from the valve casing and lift off the assembly. You’ll see the filter under the left side as you lift it up (viewed from the front of the bonnet). The filter should be renewed every 24,000 miles or two years, whichever is soonest. If the filter isn’t changed and becomes blocked, it can cause excess crankcase pressure leading to damaged oil seals and oil leaks. It can also affect engine power, cause an inability to rev, produce exhaust smoke and increase oil consumption. If you find that the filter is blocked, it’s best to renew the complete depression limiter valve assembly. Incidentally, this also applies to the Range Rover fitted with the Td6 diesel engine.
After the valve assembly is lifted, the filter (arrowed) will be visible
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...nder+2&hash=item33bfaefb63:g:cMsAAOSwuxFYwaSf @ £30.99 for standard - or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...nder+2&hash=item43c562713b:g:eDQAAOxyRhBS84YH @ £65 for the silicone version.
you decide
Although this job is specified in the service routine, the Land Rover workshop manual makes no reference to the procedure for changing it. The filter is housed inside the depression limiter valve casing on top of the engine. To reach it you’ll need to remove the air filter element cover and engine top cover, then unbolt the injector harness support rail and tilt it forward out of the way. The depression limiter valve assembly is between the injector harness and the air filter casing. It’s black plastic with two circular shapes, like a figure eight on its side.
Depression limiter valve assembly (arrowed) is unscrewedRemove the screws from the valve casing and lift off the assembly. You’ll see the filter under the left side as you lift it up (viewed from the front of the bonnet). The filter should be renewed every 24,000 miles or two years, whichever is soonest. If the filter isn’t changed and becomes blocked, it can cause excess crankcase pressure leading to damaged oil seals and oil leaks. It can also affect engine power, cause an inability to rev, produce exhaust smoke and increase oil consumption. If you find that the filter is blocked, it’s best to renew the complete depression limiter valve assembly. Incidentally, this also applies to the Range Rover fitted with the Td6 diesel engine.
After the valve assembly is lifted, the filter (arrowed) will be visiblehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...nder+2&hash=item33bfaefb63:g:cMsAAOSwuxFYwaSf @ £30.99 for standard - or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...nder+2&hash=item43c562713b:g:eDQAAOxyRhBS84YH @ £65 for the silicone version.
you decide
td4van
Well-Known Member
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The FL2 doesn't have a crankcase filter, only a separator that returns the oil to the sump and any gases back through the induction system.
Although this job is specified in the service routine, the Land Rover workshop manual makes no reference to the procedure for changing it. The filter is housed inside the depression limiter valve casing on top of the engine. To reach it you’ll need to remove the air filter element cover and engine top cover, then unbolt the injector harness support rail and tilt it forward out of the way. The depression limiter valve assembly is between the injector harness and the air filter casing. It’s black plastic with two circular shapes, like a figure eight on its side.
Remove the screws from the valve casing and lift off the assembly. You’ll see the filter under the left side as you lift it up (viewed from the front of the bonnet). The filter should be renewed every 24,000 miles or two years, whichever is soonest. If the filter isn’t changed and becomes blocked, it can cause excess crankcase pressure leading to damaged oil seals and oil leaks. It can also affect engine power, cause an inability to rev, produce exhaust smoke and increase oil consumption. If you find that the filter is blocked, it’s best to renew the complete depression limiter valve assembly. Incidentally, this also applies to the Range Rover fitted with the Td6 diesel engine.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-II-2-2-TD4-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-HOSE-LONG-LR002589-/222259247971?fits=Model:Freelander+2&hash=item33bfaefb63:g:cMsAAOSwuxFYwaSf @ £30.99 for standard - or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-TD4-2-2-TURBO-TO-INTECOOLER-SILICONE-HOSE-PIPE-KIT-/291074371899?fits=Model:Freelander+2&hash=item43c562713b:g:eDQAAOxyRhBS84YH @ £65 for the silicone version.
you decide
That all refers to the BMW engine in the Freelander 1 not the Ford/PSA 2.2 engine in the car affected
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it was specifically for the fl2..... look at the links
it was specifically for the fl2..... look at the links
I guess the link is wrongly named MHM. The picture and description definitely relates to the M47R BMW engine. The text also referred to the RR 6 cylinder diesel, which uses the same crank case filter as the Freelander TD4 unit.
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i bow to yo greater knowledge.....
Will smith
New Member
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- Carlisle Cumbria
I have a freelander 2 it seems to have a small oil leak but can see nothing under the bonnet could it be something to do with a recent service.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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- 53,847
Possible they split some down the side of the engine etc. Clean the oil off with something like gunk and wipe clean. Then see where the oil appears again. It will blow around when yer driving at speed so the source of the leak may be difficult to find unless yer clean it oft at some point.
Appologies to resurrect an old thread @Hippo I wondered what mechanism the FL2 has for seperating the oil from the air and how good it is when it is working.
I ask because my FL2 leaks oil from the induction pipe that goes across the engine and down to the turbo. The leak is just after the PCV connection, so I assume oil is getting breathed in and then leaking out there. Over time it can build up and it has even snuck down the conduit that holds all the wires, most notably the one to the CrankShaft Sensor. I am blaming this for my need to add a replacement loom to the sensor get the car running properly. My new dedicated loom to the sensor now doesn't go near the oil leak, but there are other wires there too (I think one of them, from the direction it goes off in, goes to the fuel pressure sensor for example and so is another problem waiting to stop the car starting).
So do I just need to make that joint better so it doesn't leak (and I have to be careful what I use, as any fragments of said glue/silcone could fly into my already chipped turbo turbine). Or do I need to address the oil coming from the PCV - is this to be expected?
Picture of new loom and oil leak location:
Cheers
James
I ask because my FL2 leaks oil from the induction pipe that goes across the engine and down to the turbo. The leak is just after the PCV connection, so I assume oil is getting breathed in and then leaking out there. Over time it can build up and it has even snuck down the conduit that holds all the wires, most notably the one to the CrankShaft Sensor. I am blaming this for my need to add a replacement loom to the sensor get the car running properly. My new dedicated loom to the sensor now doesn't go near the oil leak, but there are other wires there too (I think one of them, from the direction it goes off in, goes to the fuel pressure sensor for example and so is another problem waiting to stop the car starting).
So do I just need to make that joint better so it doesn't leak (and I have to be careful what I use, as any fragments of said glue/silcone could fly into my already chipped turbo turbine). Or do I need to address the oil coming from the PCV - is this to be expected?
Picture of new loom and oil leak location:
Cheers
James
Update:
it seems like this is a hot topic:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31972.html?highlight=pcv
some like a catch can, some like a posher seperator, and some say both are bad as they starve the inlet stems of oil vapour. Who knows who is right.
A mini sump, with a drain, on the plastic induction pipe seems like a good compromise. I just have to decide if I am up for that mod - as any failed part kills the turbo. perhaps I should just make the leaky connection better
it seems like this is a hot topic:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic31972.html?highlight=pcv
some like a catch can, some like a posher seperator, and some say both are bad as they starve the inlet stems of oil vapour. Who knows who is right.
A mini sump, with a drain, on the plastic induction pipe seems like a good compromise. I just have to decide if I am up for that mod - as any failed part kills the turbo. perhaps I should just make the leaky connection better
Arctic2
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It is a simple fix first remove air intake pipe from the pipe going down to the turbo, clean it out, then when you re-fit it use a decent jubilee clip, instead of the spring clip that is used. solved my weeping.
first removed when i did my belts.
1
Area was cleaned after the belt change
2
weeping again
3
No weeping since a jubilee clip was added.
4
first removed when i did my belts.
Area was cleaned after the belt change
weeping again
No weeping since a jubilee clip was added.
That's a Norma clip, which was the OE supplier to Rover for many years.
I love them, and have a few spare myself.
