Help needed, what next ?

afternoon all, have I got the hump or what, i'll try and keep it brief.

03 D2 TD5,
started loosing power a couple of weeks ago, no smoke.
bought service kit and the fuel pipe sprang a leak.
Leaking fuel pipe, replaced
new fuel filter and cleaned the sedimenter, done.
battery then died, replaced.
took it for a test drive, lost power, black smoke, turbo screaming.
on inspection, turbo dead.
new turbo, fitted
new oil filters oil and air filter, fitted
intercooler pipes, cleaned, no visible damage or delamination but new ones on the way.
intercooler, cleaned
egr, replaced
start her up, screaming gone, only gets to 1500rpm, black smoke.
map sensor, cleaned
maf sensor, replaced
found one broken exhaust manifold stud, drilled removed replaced in situ.
fuel pump removed, mesh filter cleaned
removed ECU, no visible signs of oil, cleaned anyway
still only 1500 rpm and black smoke.

what next ? is it the ECU or could it be the head ?

have you tried a diagnostic kit

tried to find one local (Billericay Essex) but doesn't seem to be a lot round here, which is a surprize, there are a lot of landy's round here.
probably resort to buying one but needed someone else's thoughts first.

no thoughts without some live data... there could be many management elements involved...for the issue you have a proper diagnostic is the only way...or keep replaceing bits based on luck

I bit the bullet and ordered a nanocom, will update when I get some info

you'll not regret it, will pay for itself in no time... save a live data sheet and attach it here then we'll speak seriously about what's the trouble...

maybe you'll find lots of fault codes stored in the ECU memory, remember them for just in case, erase them go for a ride then read codes again.

Fuel presure regulator on side of head !!! May be faulty !!

View attachment 55856sierrafery,

I copied the files form nanocom to SD, took the live data but it only came out as an xl file, cant attach an xl so I copied it to a word, then it wouldn't let me do that either so sorry, it's a jpeg (probably not very helpful) but I don't know what to convert too.
I have attached
cleared the fault codes but still no change, very frustrated ! could not drive.
did notice EGR Inlet (%);EGR Modulator (%);Wastegate Modulator(%) all 0
EGR has been removed but thought the wastegate would have shown something ?
what should I look for next ? is there something I've missed on the nanocom ? should I reformat the SD and try again ?

flat top said:

sierrafery,

I copied the files form nanocom to SD, took the live data but it only came out as an xl file, cant attach an xl so I copied it to a word, then it wouldn't let me do that either so sorry, it's a jpeg (probably not very helpful) but I don't know what to convert too.
I have attached
cleared the fault codes but still no change, very frustrated ! could not drive.
did notice EGR Inlet (%);EGR Modulator (%);Wastegate Modulator(%) all 0
EGR has been removed but thought the wastegate would have shown something ?
what should I look for next ? is there something I've missed on the nanocom ? should I reformat the SD and try again ?

Click to expand...

img is too small to be useful, you can't read the text

yeah just noticed that, changed from gif to jpeg and double clicked and worked ok, should be better now, tell me if it doesn't.

check fuse F2 in engine bay

F2 is ok, swapped it out with the 15a from F3 just in case, both fuse fine.

so i extracted two lines which seem relevant would have been good a reading above 3000 rpm though(or you can rev it above 1500 what eve you do?), so

1. MAF : idle = 44.1, 1565 = 87.4

2. AAP : idle = 98.15 1565 =97.5

3. MAP: idle = 99.77 1565 = 98.8

conclusion, something is wrong with the MAF circuit(if you can vouch that it's new and genuine cos both readings are too low, it should have been around 55-60 at idle and around 200 at 1500, also there's no boost at all, that's why i said to check fuse F2 cos the MAF, EGR modulator and the wastegate modulator are all on the same circuit(fed through F2) insist in this area, if one of the solenoids(EGR or wastegate) or the MAF itrself is not the best it mixes up the feed (without blowing the fuse).

you said EGR was removed but was the modulator too?...and confirm didnt you find fault codes stored as "airflow low"?


anyway unplug modulators(EGR if still there and wastegate), clog the vacuum pipes, bypass the wastegate modulator by connecting the pipe which comes back from the intercooler directly to wastegate actuator valve then go for a ride(or at least rev it up stationary) and read live data again, post here in writing only those values like i did... i see you didnt tell about the air filter, remove it entirely for this short test(or replace it with new if youn have one), now as you have tester we'll get to the end of it

by the way order a depression controll valve to have it within reach for the next test

You have checked your intercooler/turbo hoses ??

I had this with a TD5 and it was the top hose to the intercooler, looked perfect from the ourside but it had de-caliminated on the inside and was totaly blocked !

hey @falt top, if you'll dissapear and not answer after i killed my eyes on those small figures trying to help you i'll come to Essex and kick your arse ... i'm joking but take into account that maybe you'll need help other time too and then i'll ignore you ... cos i saw you've read my post... your issue made me curious and i feel unsastisfied

Sorry, not ignoring you, just making sure I do it right, I like to triple check things as I get older

Ok,
EGR, I had only disconnected the top modulator so disconnected the bottom one too and test ran, still the same, codes found and cleared yesterday were ambient pressure circuit (logged high) and air flow circuit (logged low)

New silicone hoses had arrived so I fitted them wile I was at it (had to go to halfrauds to get a large jubbly clip had new ones for all the rest already) test ran, no change.

disconnected wastegate modulator, EGR vac hoses were already blocked, disconnected vac hoses from the wastegate actuator and the steel tube that goes to the intercooler and ran a pipe from there straight to the actuator then tested, no change (as the wastegate modulator was disconnected, I take it I didn't have to block any of these pipes ?)

Ran the nanocom, no change in figures, thought i'd try the old MAF so changed out and the air flow dropped to 4.3.
the MAF I bought last week was an as if as it was the only one available so I rang europarts an told them there sensor was faulty did they have any more (thought i'd chance my arm) fortunately for me they had a fresh stock of VDO sensors so I did a swap + £30 with them.

air filter is new but looks really dirty seeing as it's done 1.5 miles and a lot of ticking over, got a new one but left it out for the test.

final test figures are,

1, MAF : idle = 45.6 1514 = 89.5

2, APP : idle = 98.68 1514 = 98.55

3, MAP: idle = 99.48 1514 = 97.73

no change really !

depression control valve now on order after a long conversation with a local land rover dealer who more or less told me I was talking Bo####ks then had to eat his words when I told him exactly where to look

unfortunately you must rule out the AAP sensor... which is expensive, are you sure the EGR valve is not clogged.... as or no boost is reaching the MAP or the sensor is fubar'd too... would be good to adapt a pressure gauge somewhere after the turbo to check real boost if there is any

the EGR valve is removed, I don't understand why the MAF is only reading 40 odd, there is no air filter at the mo.
the turbo is quiet but I want to pull the intake hose just to make sure its turning, check it yesterday wile fitting the silicone hoses, there was a little oil in the exit pipe going to the intercooler ! not what id expect from a brand new turbo.

that air flow reading is low all the way, unplug the MAF and try so as the ECU will go on default value... also the strange thing is that there's no manifold pressure reading

I took the inlet pipe off the turbo, turned on and it span freely at tick over.

refitted the turbo modulator, checking all the vacuum hoses were intact.

took the steel pipe to the intercooler off as I find it easier to fit the vacuum hose to the turbo modulator (fat hands and sausage fingers)
there is fresh oil in the intercooler hose (brand new yesterday) looks like I have a brand new turbo with shot oil seals.

put it all back together, tried the nanocom with the MAF connected and again disconnected, the only change was the MAF reading went from 45 to 4.
everything else is the same

if the turbo seals are shot, would the turbo create enough boost ?