Help...gearbox oil change disaster... :-(

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Hard-Drive

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Rugby
About ready to top myself and torch my Landy after tonight's bit of "preventative maintenance". I'm after some help or advice!

My Landy is new to me, I've had it about a month. It's a 1986 110SW, that was originally a 2.5 N/A but has been converted to a 200Tdi. It's running a 1.22 Disco transfer box on an LT77 gearbox. I have no idea when it was last serviced so I thought I'd better get on and change all the fluids. I did the engine oil and went to change the gearbox oil. There was nothing wrong with how it drove, however after having had a Disco with an R380 box that always responded very well to an oil change, I was hoping for a good result with the 110 as it was not the nicest gearbox to use.

I drained the oil (both drains) and removed and cleaned the filter. There was a fair bit of debris on the gearbox plug magnet, but only fine "filings", no big chunks or swarf. The filter was fairly clean, although there was a bit of mayonnaise style gunge in the bottom of the plug.

I then replaced the plugs, refilled with ATF to the overflow point (using a brand new garden sprayer bought specially for the task) and put the plug back in.

There's now no doubt that the box changes more smoothly and goes into gear easier, but...and it's a big but, it now makes a horrible noise if you give it some welly. Symptoms are as follows:

High range, 1st or 2nd gear, gentle acceleration...no issue.
High range, 1st or 2nd gear, hard acceleration...horrible noise. Somewhere between the whine of a dentist's drill and someone running their fingers across the teeth of plastic comb. Seems to increase in speed faster than crankshaft revs increase. Almost sounds like one of those straight-cut rally car gearboxes...in a bad state of repair. Comes in when the turbo really spools up and it gets going. Sounds horrible.
High range, 3rd/4th/5th gear, no noise, regardless of how much welly is being given
Low range, all gears, hard accleration, horrible noise. Gentle acceleration, no noise.

There's no slipping or lost drive, no banging or juddering. It's not dependant on road speed or revs. It seems entirely dependant on how much welly you are giving it and how smooth you are. The best comparison is like driving on snow. Go gently in whatever gear you like at whatever speed and it's fine. Hoof it in a low gear and you're going to wheelspin, or get that horrible noise.

I'm absolutely gutted. I've done loads of tinkering on my truck, just got it straight through an MOT with no advisories, so I've started treating it to accessories and pointless shiny bits and I get this in return.

How the hell can brand new fluid make a previously unknown problem suddenly manifest itself in such a horrible sounding way, yet at the same time hugely improve the gearchange? The fluid that I drained was a bit black, but not overly thick/runny and had no visible water contamination or similar.

Any advice gratefully recieved...thoroughly p1ssed off right now.

Thanks...
 
It could be something completely unrelated, does it do it if you dip the clutch when driving at high revs?

Not tried that but can do in the morning...

could be bearings spinning in casing ,atf is very detergent and will clean out any lacquer maybe stopping races spinning

Hmmm...it sounds more like teeth grinding, I'd expect spinning races to be more of a judder?
 
Right, just had another drive.

In fairness it only does it at full throttle in the lower gears. If you apply 3/4 throttle you can go right up to full revs/change point with no issues. It's just when you really stomp on the throttle it's an issue. It seems more about load than speed/revs, and to be honest I would rarely drive it hard enough to make the noise in everyday driving. I have been "provoking" it to get the noise.

With the transfer box in neutral it doesn't make the noise in any gear, but then again there's no load so it probably won't. I have not changed the tfr box oil, so I'll try some fresh EP as a process of elimination, but I'm fairly convinced it's the main box.

Again, any thoughts gratefully received. I do really need to use the truck at the moment, so if I keep driving it sympathetically is it likely to be OK for a bit?

Sadly I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that this is going to be a call to Ashcroft as it looks like any kind of DIY fix is out in terms of my skill levels and tools...
 
Right, just had another drive.

In fairness it only does it at full throttle in the lower gears. If you apply 3/4 throttle you can go right up to full revs/change point with no issues. It's just when you really stomp on the throttle it's an issue. It seems more about load than speed/revs, and to be honest I would rarely drive it hard enough to make the noise in everyday driving. I have been "provoking" it to get the noise.

With the transfer box in neutral it doesn't make the noise in any gear, but then again there's no load so it probably won't. I have not changed the tfr box oil, so I'll try some fresh EP as a process of elimination, but I'm fairly convinced it's the main box.

Again, any thoughts gratefully received. I do really need to use the truck at the moment, so if I keep driving it sympathetically is it likely to be OK for a bit?

Sadly I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that this is going to be a call to Ashcroft as it looks like any kind of DIY fix is out in terms of my skill levels and tools...
i still think im likely to be right from what youve said
 
Right, just had another drive.

In fairness it only does it at full throttle in the lower gears. If you apply 3/4 throttle you can go right up to full revs/change point with no issues. It's just when you really stomp on the throttle it's an issue. It seems more about load than speed/revs, and to be honest I would rarely drive it hard enough to make the noise in everyday driving. I have been "provoking" it to get the noise.

With the transfer box in neutral it doesn't make the noise in any gear, but then again there's no load so it probably won't. I have not changed the tfr box oil, so I'll try some fresh EP as a process of elimination, but I'm fairly convinced it's the main box.

Again, any thoughts gratefully received. I do really need to use the truck at the moment, so if I keep driving it sympathetically is it likely to be OK for a bit?

Sadly I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that this is going to be a call to Ashcroft as it looks like any kind of DIY fix is out in terms of my skill levels and tools...
As a new member you may not know any better but I would not dismiss JM,s diagnosis.;). Good luck anyway.
 
Gear oil from a healthy gearbox should never come out any shade of black, maybe a tinge of syncro ring bronze.
Maybe a failed/weak layshaft bearing.
Have seen the LT77 burn the first motion (input shaft) gear and its mating gear on the layshaft right off due to layshaft bearing failure.
 
Gear oil from a healthy gearbox should never come out any shade of black, maybe a tinge of syncro ring bronze.
Maybe a failed/weak layshaft bearing.
Have seen the LT77 burn the first motion (input shaft) gear and its mating gear on the layshaft right off due to layshaft bearing failure.
ive seen a few, its very common on poorly serviced r380s too
 
Sorry, quite right as a newbie it can be tricky to sort good advice from bad! Thanks for the insight.

So, what's the fix?
Is it OK to keep driving gently (avoiding making "the noise") or is it likely to go bang catastrophically at any moment?
Is it remotely DIY repairable or is it new box time?
Is there anything that I can add to the oil to buy me a bit of time?
Is it worth me dropping the ATF again and having a look for any signs of trouble in it?
You mention the detergent properties of the new ATF. Would it be that quick? Would it show immediately after dropping and changing the oil in one evening and driving a 1/4 mile, all in the space of a couple of hours?
Lastly, I had a trawl through the old oil and found this. It look like the end of a circlip but is it very small (penny for size comparison). Is this the smoking gun? Although it's entirely possible it's not even from the box and was stuck to the pick up tool or just in the catch bucket anyway...

24900227573_c017b2057c_b.jpg


And I take it this is perfectly OK ATF to use?

24896405994_b398bf7750_b.jpg
 
atf is fine,whats recommended in any case,
there are 2 circlips one directly behind the rear mainshaft bearing the other behind 5th synchro, the rest of the circlip would need to appear before anything moved, with selection of 5th been noticeable different, personally id pull the box out and strip it and fix before box gets worse,if its only on hard acceleration the presumably if you dont it will be ok for sometime or till symptoms increase or change
 
atf is fine,whats recommended in any case,
there are 2 circlips one directly behind the rear mainshaft bearing the other behind 5th synchro, the rest of the circlip would need to appear before anything moved, with selection of 5th been noticeable different, personally id pull the box out and strip it and fix before box gets worse,if its only on hard acceleration the presumably if you dont it will be ok for sometime or till symptoms increase or change

Hmmm...I'm a reasonably competent DIY mechanic on simpler stuff, but I'm not sure stripping the gearbox is realistic, especially as the Haynes manual says "run away".

I don't suppose it's a case of the offending bits say just behind some cover or similar is it? I take it it's a full stripdown?
 
Hmmm...I'm a reasonably competent DIY mechanic on simpler stuff, but I'm not sure stripping the gearbox is realistic, especially as the Haynes manual says "run away".

I don't suppose it's a case of the offending bits say just behind some cover or similar is it? I take it it's a full stripdown?

If you can strip and rebuild a swivel hub, you can do a gearbox .... I've done them ... it's scary at first ...
Plenty of advice on here, and if needed James will talk you through step-by-step ...
Go for it, it is soooo satisfying ...
 
Hmmm...I'm a reasonably competent DIY mechanic on simpler stuff, but I'm not sure stripping the gearbox is realistic, especially as the Haynes manual says "run away".

I don't suppose it's a case of the offending bits say just behind some cover or similar is it? I take it it's a full stripdown?
most things on those boxes are full strip downs,they can be tricky i have some special tools for pulling collar and synchro hub off ,some will prise off others the pullers are struggling, you can get to the front bearings by removing cover inside the bell housing ,the rears do require a full strip,the bearing outer races are a very loose fit in the box ,rear ones especially are prone for spinning and wearing the rear seats this gives endfloat ,which means shafts will move between drive and overrun
 
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