HELP - Disco 2 Td5 cranking but not starting - Fixed?

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that was the question not while running ... if no crank signal while cranking there's no way for it to start, now the reason can be bad starter interference or sensor/it's circuit issue... did you check it's plug to be well connected?, tomorrow try to start it again normally(but dont insist) before you tow it... if you insisted much to crank it better charge the battery and dont forget the relay thing
 
sierrafery said:
that was the question not while running ... if no crank signal while cranking there's no way for it to start, now the reason can be bad starter interference or sensor/it's circuit issue... did you check it's plug to be well connected?, tomorrow try to start it again normally(but dont insist) before you tow it... if you insisted much to crank it better charge the battery and dont forget the relay thing
Click to expand...

I did start it this morning, not starting. Of course I just read your message now and forgot to disconnect the starter relay. But it bump started straight away without hesitation. Drove it back, still a bit rough/jerky but not misfiring in driving.
Parked the car, shut it off, tried to start again. it starts.

I will leave it sitting for a while and try again. If it doesn't start I will bump again and with the relay disconnected.
 
Just a quick note to underscore the importance of Sierrafery's point about the crank position sensor. I've had trouble over the years with a non starting TD5 in a Defender. When the starter is turning the engine over (but before the engine fires) does the Nanocom show you rpm (mine's about 260-300) and cylinder balance values? If it does then that demonstrates that the crank position sensor is giving the ECU a signal and that the starter isn't interfering with it too badly. That way you've ruled out two potential culprits.

I've also had oil in the injector look make the engine cut out completely. People look at the plug on the ECU, but by the timeoil has got there it's too late. The real bellweather is the plug where the loom goes into the cylinder head on the right hand side of the engine at the front. That's the one where you can see the oil first. If you don't know when it was last replaced, it might be worth changing it anyway, as it can make a difference.
 
Brown said:
Just a quick note to underscore the importance of Sierrafery's point about the crank position sensor. I've had trouble over the years with a non starting TD5 in a Defender. When the starter is turning the engine over (but before the engine fires) does the Nanocom show you rpm (mine's about 260-300) and cylinder balance values? If it does then that demonstrates that the crank position sensor is giving the ECU a signal and that the starter isn't interfering with it too badly. That way you've ruled out two potential culprits.

I've also had oil in the injector look make the engine cut out completely. People look at the plug on the ECU, but by the timeoil has got there it's too late. The real bellweather is the plug where the loom goes into the cylinder head on the right hand side of the engine at the front. That's the one where you can see the oil first. If you don't know when it was last replaced, it might be worth changing it anyway, as it can make a difference.
Click to expand...

No the nanocom does not register any engine speed at all, just 0.

The plug to the loom contained some oil. I did clean only the plug but before I did that the engine ran perfectly, I think some oil might be in the loom but I am I right to want to solve the starter issue before I have a go at the loom?
 
sierrafery said:
keep nanocom prepared to read before you try to crank it, then if it doesnt start watch the crank signal while towing it too
Click to expand...

Am I right to think that the crank shaft sensor would give signal while towing but without the engine running? I did the nanocom a few times when it didn't start and it didn't give an engine speed. I didn't look at the cylinder balance but will do when it decides not to start again.

Sierrafery; is it now the case of finding out if it is the crank sensor or the starter motor or do you still think it can be anything else?

Of course today I have all day to work on it and you guessed it, it is starting the whole time :mad::mad::mad:
 
as long as the ignition is on and the flywheel is turning the crank sensor must give signal cos it's a variable reluctance type, i'm getting around 300rpm while cranking injector plug disconnected... unfortunately it's output can'n be verified with multimeter only with oscilloscope, a measurement is possible but not 100% relevant only if it's completely out of that limit so you can measure it's resistance, it should be very close to 1200 Ohm... if it's more that let's say 5% different it's not good, the measurement is more relevant in the ECU plug while jiggling the wiring to rule out a circuit issue ...do you have RAVE?
 
it might have a cover on Td5 as well, look down between the FPR and bulkhead

CKP sensor.jpg
 
It is starting every time now..... sigh.
I going to clean of the oil and get a proper light as I can't see anything properly in that area.
It is still not running right though. but I worry about that later?
 
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