Help desperately needed with 90 wiring

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Hi Guys

Latest update -

clamped a voltmeter to the engine block and ground ( 11.7v ) and then attached jumper cable from battery -ve post to the casing of the alternator ( and several other places ) and voltage completely disappeared !!!! woohoo!!!!!

Obviously your thoughts on the PD and requirement for everything to have an earth return was 100% spot on. I'd guess that one or more of the household earth cables were being used in this role and removing them caused the difference in PD etc. Although this will now be cured using correct size earthing cable from Engine-gearbox-chassis to battery -ve post.

I will get the alternator checked out but it does not seem as urgent as i initially believed.

Whilst i was checking the bulkhead loom on the table, removing all the remaining tape i did find five wires in the loom that had damage to the insulation material and one where the strands were actually broken although no damage was seen to the tape in this area. Might have been contributing to problem or not, at least now they are repaired and fully insulated which can only be a good thing.

I have loads of photos of the rebuild which i will put up on a share at the completion, which will include this saga.

thanks again for all the input and guidance.

Cheers
Kev
 
Just when things looked as if they were done!!!!!



Connected it all back up and now seem to have lost the passenger side lights and indicators ( when switched as indicators work on hazzards). There is no click in the relay when switching left indicator on !! :blink:



Will be checking connectors today but the loom looked good putting it in and taping up!!



Any ideas what might cause this one????
 
Managed to get a few hours in before going back to work for 4 weeks,



Upshot is all sidelights, fog and indicators are now working having run an independant earth to the chassis from rear of the new tub.



However the reverse light is still not functioning ( i've tested the block switch as ok on a meter ), i believe this may be a missing connection having re-run the bulkhead loom but not 100% sure.



Also prior to removing and replacing the (same) bulkhead loom, when i turned the key fully for a split second i got the starter motor kicking in which i now don't get.



Will have to wait until i get back to sort.
 
Hi guys

Just back fro the job and started to look into the electrical side again. Snapped up a brand new AMR2352 loom whilst away but after checking all ( i thought :confused2: ) of the connectors it seems i missed the one that goes to the voltage dim/dip unit that is mounted behind the console. there does not appear to be any wiring in the loom to connect to this. Can i do without this item, can the loom be adapted or do i have to go for a completely new loom ?? ( The AMR2352 is listed at £1500 on Rimmers website so should not have to much problem selling it for a lot less. Seems a shame to cut a brand new loom. Have tried getting in touch with Autosparks but cant get put through to anyone that can understand the problem ie Q plate so no VIN numbers etc!!!! Arghhhhh!!!!!:mad::frusty:

Any thoughts on this one??
 
Hi guys

Just back fro the job and started to look into the electrical side again. Snapped up a brand new AMR2352 loom whilst away but after checking all ( i thought :confused2: ) of the connectors it seems i missed the one that goes to the voltage dim/dip unit that is mounted behind the console. there does not appear to be any wiring in the loom to connect to this. Can i do without this item, can the loom be adapted or do i have to go for a completely new loom ?? ( The AMR2352 is listed at £1500 on Rimmers website so should not have to much problem selling it for a lot less. Seems a shame to cut a brand new loom. Have tried getting in touch with Autosparks but cant get put through to anyone that can understand the problem ie Q plate so no VIN numbers etc!!!! Arghhhhh!!!!!:mad::frusty:

Any thoughts on this one??

you don't need the dim dip unit so just forget it ever existed;):)
 
Hi Redhand

Sorry, there is a vin number assigned to the Q Plate but it bears no resemblance to a landrover vin issue so does not help when you are asked to give the vin.
Also harness numbers like AMR2352 do not equate to the q plate.

Q plates are fine if you are the builder as it means the build is inspected etc but if you don't keep records of what you do and the 3rd or 4th owner needs to do anything it becomes a real PITA!!!
 
Hi

I have a transplanted Disco 300tdi in a 90 body. Have just done a rebuild and converted to an open bed cab type setup. the old loom was realy tatty with a few burnt wires so we decided to change it rather than mess about rewiring etc.
 
Hi James
The fuse box is the blade type which is included in the loom the engine is a disco 300tdi transplant.
The missing plug to what I thought was a dim/dip unit might well be a voltage transformer of some kind. So I'm now not sure if it can be left unconnected.
 
Hi Redhand

Sorry, there is a vin number assigned to the Q Plate but it bears no resemblance to a landrover vin issue so does not help when you are asked to give the vin.
Also harness numbers like AMR2352 do not equate to the q plate.

Q plates are fine if you are the builder as it means the build is inspected etc but if you don't keep records of what you do and the 3rd or 4th owner needs to do anything it becomes a real PITA!!!

Generally speaking you can get round the lack of a vin by breaking down the way LR Vin works.

So as long as you know the rough dates that your engine, gearbox and axles are from you can just check what year the parts fit .

So if a part says Vin HA onwards etc as long as you know what year HA relates to and the age of your bits it then becomes simple to tell if that part will fit. for reference the LR year numbers on VIN numbers are as follows.

Year of Build
A all models except:
B Ser. III CSW or R/R Phase II, or 90/110 face lift to 1987 M/Y
C R/R 1986 M/Y
D R/R 1987 M/Y
E 1988
F 1989
G 1990
H 1991
J 1992
K 1993
L 1994
M 1995
T 1996
V 1997
W 1998
X 1999
Y 2000
1 2001
2 2002
3 2003
4 2004
5 2005
6 2006
7 2007
8 2008
9 2009
The A that is usually stated as the 2nd digit I:E LA HA etc etc simply denotes a landrover. built in Sollihull.

Full descritption ere.

Chassis Number Information
 
Ah well, latest update...... new AMR 2352 Loom proved a dud with regards being compatible with my setup....only one light on the pannel came on and no rear lights etc at all !! :-(

Got to bite the bullet and try to source a complete system from Autosparks. Finally managed to speak to Paul there and we decided to send the original naff loom back to him to look at and se what can be done to recreate it etc. I've told him i want to get the full issue from front to rear but already the fly in the ointment is the engine. Autosparks only do up to the 200Tdi and mine is a Disco 300Tdi so not sure what the differences are going to be etc. When you look at it there is only a glow plug timer / controller, oil, water temp, alternator and starter motor....how hard can it be??

Updates to follow
 
Ah well, latest update...... new AMR 2352 Loom proved a dud with regards being compatible with my setup....only one light on the pannel came on and no rear lights etc at all !! :-(
Updates to follow

What became of the AMR2352? Was it a problem with the loom or compatibility issues? I need a harness with that part number hence the interest.
 
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