HELP - Crossed battery terminals now shorting/non start

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Should I keep trying to fix it or just pull it out the garage

  • Pull it out the garage and leave it to rot

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Get that thing running and put it back on the road!

    Votes: 4 100.0%
  • Total voters
    4
I have already disconnected the stop solenoid back in my original testing (number 5 on my “additional additional” info) and it didn’t seem to make a difference, something else in the injection pump must be clicking? As far as I know the pumps have some other internal solenoid?

I can test again now with this reduced relay setup, unfortunately it will be later in the week (I’ll be away for work until Wednesday night) so I can update you guys again once I get time to do some more tests.

Thank you all so much for being so helpful, I have posted this problem on one other forum and a Facebook group and you guys have by far been the most helpful (I know it’s the kind of problem where nobody really knows the solution, but all I was looking for was some more things to try before I completely gave up)
 
MikeFl4 said:
I have already disconnected the stop solenoid back in my original testing (number 5 on my “additional additional” info) and it didn’t seem to make a difference, something else in the injection pump must be clicking? As far as I know the pumps have some other internal solenoid?

I can test again now with this reduced relay setup, unfortunately it will be later in the week (I’ll be away for work until Wednesday night) so I can update you guys again once I get time to do some more tests.

Thank you all so much for being so helpful, I have posted this problem on one other forum and a Facebook group and you guys have by far been the most helpful (I know it’s the kind of problem where nobody really knows the solution, but all I was looking for was some more things to try before I completely gave up)
Click to expand...

There's the electronics that controls the control collar in the top of the pump. I'm trying to recall what is in there other than a circuit board and the solenoid. I may have put some pictures on here somewhere in the past. If that collar cannot move then it won't start for sure.
 
Grrrrrr said:
There's the electronics that controls the control collar in the top of the pump. I'm trying to recall what is in there other than a circuit board and the solenoid. I may have put some pictures on here somewhere in the past. If that collar cannot move then it won't start for sure.
Click to expand...

Something to add that I noticed while it makes the clicking in the injection pump, is that there is also this kind of fluid squirting/moving noise that is in time with the clicking. This of course makes me think the same - that it must be the stop solenoid, as what the hell else could not only be in that area, make a clicking noise and a liquid squirting inside a pipe noise!

Im defiantly going to disconnect the stop solenoid again once I’m home and try it now with all the relays removed, it is very likely at this point though that the ECM got damaged with the battery crossing.
 
MikeFl4 said:
Something to add that I noticed while it makes the clicking in the injection pump, is that there is also this kind of fluid squirting/moving noise that is in time with the clicking. This of course makes me think the same - that it must be the stop solenoid, as what the hell else could not only be in that area, make a clicking noise and a liquid squirting inside a pipe noise!

Im defiantly going to disconnect the stop solenoid again once I’m home and try it now with all the relays removed, it is very likely at this point though that the ECM got damaged with the battery crossing.
Click to expand...
I would say it's pretty certain that the ECU is toast. There is a control servo in the FIP, so if it's not the stop solenoid it will be that. If you look for a replacement ECU, make sure it's the correct one for your car, either with MAF or without. You will need diagnostics to code the BECM to the replacement ECU.
 
I agree with Keith, don't waste your time faffing with parts. Get the ecus checked first and then move onto everything else in line after that. ;)
Callrova are a good place to start and there are others who specialize in 38' ecus ;)
 
Mark Piercy said:
I agree with Keith, don't waste your time faffing with parts. Get the ecus checked first and then move onto everything else in line after that. ;)
Callrova are a good place to start and there are others who specialize in 38' ecus ;)
Click to expand...

Any BMW place should be able to sort the engine ECU on the oil burner. The map is a special Land Rover one but I am sure it can be had from somewhere.
 
Hi everyone, thank you all again for your replies (even though you are all telling me my ecus are toasted) it’s much appreciated!

I will test the stop solenoid today JUST in the off chance I missed a trick with it, otherwise it looks like it’s going to be ECU specialist time.

So, I do have a question in return. Since I live in Ireland and there now exists import duty on anything I receive from the UK, do any of you guys know a specialist that’s based in Ireland (including NI) that would give this P38 the best chance at life again?
Unless there is something I’m missing with this import duty, as I’ve been charged for some things and not others?

I don’t mind spending a few hundred to sort out the ECUs either in Ireland or UK, I guess I would probably be best to send out the BECM and ECM as a package?
 
Grrrrrr said:
You've tried a mechanic's stethoscope or screwdriver to be certain where the noise is coming from?
Click to expand...

I’ve got a bit of hose from water cooling a computer left over, I can’t think of what else it could be in that area other than the injection pump at this stage though?
 
I’ll give it another look again when I’m back home, I’m pretty much on the edge of breaking it for parts for my other P38 so I’ll give it one last chance by locating the source of the noise 100%
 
On the bottom on the backside of the pump there is another plug of I remember rightly that does the advance for the pump when my fusebox decided it was going to play up on the engine ecu side that used to click repeatedly might be that one , possible that the backwards connection has something that way
 
On the shipping to & from UK, the duty depends on what's on the paperwork & if they open the package. For items being sent that are gonna be returned such as ECU repair, then you're not exporting or importing permanently, so there should be a way round the duty (Look up ATA Carnet and Temporary Export-Import).

EDIT . . Just found this company for possible repair. https://www.autokey.ie/our-locations/
 
Hi everyone,

Thanks again for all of your replies, I have been busy the past week with work so have only gotten a chance just now to read your comments!

I did some more diagnosis on the Range Rover and (In my opinion) it’s certainly something is quite wrong. I had the key in the ignition turned to ignition 2 so the clicking noise could be heard. It’s 100% coming from the injection pump, not the starter solenoid etc. I decided to take the stop solenoid wire and reconnect it (as removing it made no difference) but when I went to move the wire (with the key on) it stopped the clicking noise. I then turned the key off and on again (with the stop solenoid wire isolated) and it start making this weird screeching noise. I was able to locate this noise as the passenger side horn - so I unplugged it and then relay 19 started making this screechy noise (not clicking just whining) so I unplugged it and plugged it back in. Upon plugging it back in - again - I heard another weird noise. I then found that this time it was a pump (the one with the red connector) for the washer system was buzzing. So I unplugged this and the relay 19 intermittently was doing its whining noise… car won’t turn over at all.

I know that’s a big load of bollocks but I thought it would be interesting to explain what I experienced!

Now I think I have come to the conclusion that I will use this vehicle as a parts car for my other (working) P38. My other P38 is missing air suspension (coils), all the A/C system (in the engine bay anyway) was removed leaving the ports next to the firewall open and it’s remote central locking doesn’t work (I got a fob with the vehicle [doesnt work, even with batteries the light flashes but I cannot sync it to the car] but I believe someone has disabled a bunch of the alarm system stuff in the past due to possibly getting locked out with the key in the ignition)

All of the systems I listed above are present and “kinda” working on the green P38 so maybe it would be worth a shot to try transferring them over and making one good one?

Please let me know what you guys think, my other P38 runs and drives great (and has NCT test making it road legal) so might be worth making it better instead of going down a rabbit hole with this one?
 
Datatek said:
Have you actually tried unplugging the engine ECU? The clicking is a symptom not a cause.
Click to expand...
With the engine ecu completely disconnected it stopped the clicking (I did that test before my above post so I’m not sure what all the horn and washer motor stuff it about now though)
 
Bern768 said:
On the bottom on the backside of the pump there is another plug of I remember rightly that does the advance for the pump when my fusebox decided it was going to play up on the engine ecu side that used to click repeatedly might be that one , possible that the backwards connection has something that way
Click to expand...

Thanks for this info! I have never actually checked to see if there were any more connections on the pump, I have disconnected the big round 7 pin connector that goes to the glow plug area and that stopped the clicking before so I stopped looking for more connectors since then. I will have a look again when I have time for this connector.
 
pwood999 said:
On the shipping to & from UK, the duty depends on what's on the paperwork & if they open the package. For items being sent that are gonna be returned such as ECU repair, then you're not exporting or importing permanently, so there should be a way round the duty (Look up ATA Carnet and Temporary Export-Import).

EDIT . . Just found this company for possible repair. https://www.autokey.ie/our-locations/
Click to expand...

Yes, you would hope so that I could get away with the duties but from experience it’s very random and if you refuse to pay when they ask (even if duties don’t apply) you will just never get your package and it will be lost forever (I have personally always paid but this is what friends have told me)

I might give the company you recommend a ring to see what they would quote for a repair to this type of ECU, I’m in two minds about spending more money on this green P38 now as maybe my time would be better spent swapping the parts over to my other working P38!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Montyjohn
P38A Corrosion on battery terminals
Replies
5
Views
391
pwood999
pwood999
P
L322 Battery Drain
3 4 5
Replies
86
Views
2K
marjon
marjon
A
L322 L322 V8; Clicking noise (like a relay) from passenger side
Replies
4
Views
862
biketeacherdave
biketeacherdave
J
Clicks when wet.
Replies
3
Views
411
Judd8008
J
Z
TD6 2003 L322 Rangerover Sound system making a brrp,brrp,brrp when car is locked/before entering key
Replies
8
Views
852
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
Back
Top