Help!.... clutch.

Bollox! Driving to uni on the main A road, clutch pedal went flat to the floor. It wouldnt come back up.
Pulled over, and managed to pull the pedal up by hand, but its now rock hard and wont budge at all!

A few things ive noticed; over the last fortnight wen in neutral, stationary and foot off of clutch there is a loud metallic rattle tht is definatly clutch related.

Also,the pedal has been slow to come back up after lifting foot i.e its abit sticky.

Also over last,couple days i have had to double clutch to change gear now and again.

IS this all the same problem?
What is it likly to be?
Whats the cost of parts?
is it an On the driveway job?

Cheers.Sam

remove slave and see if pivot has worn through clutch release lever,if your very lucky might just need reservoir topping up and bleeding but noise might suggest you will have to have gearbox out

Cheers for reply

Will try and get it home later, an have a look at slave tomoro.

You reckon rattle is release bearing?

Sam

Sounds like a thrust bearing going... now its failed.... Gearbox removal and new thrust. Would be worth changing the spigot and clutch whilst your in there.

I think it is the release beaing making the noise, which it is still doing....

If it had failed would it still be rattaling like a b1tch?

If its a gearbox out job i will do the lot.

Clutch Kit + HD Release Fork

rattle might be the clutch springs? mine are rattling like hell, and my clutch is warn to buggery!

That'll be the release bearing or/and the release arm/fork, best off changine the lot while your in there.

Karlos28 said:

rattle might be the clutch springs? mine are rattling like hell, and my clutch is warn to buggery!

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oldskool said:

That'll be the release bearing or/and the release arm/fork, best off changine the lot while your in there.

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Looks like its gearbox out, New Clutch kit and Fork jobbie then!

Cheers Guys.

Anyone got a guide on how to do Clutch Renewal on a Defender 300tdi.

Ive never done a clutch on any car before, but have a well stocked home mechanics garage at my disposal and a couple of mechanic mates that are easily bribed with beer tokens!!

also am i right in saying AP Driveline are berg & beck clutches?

i believe berg and beck are AP. does anyone kno if the universal clutch alignment tools work well on defender clutches?

Karlos28 said:

i believe berg and beck are AP. does anyone kno if the universal clutch alignment tools work well on defender clutches?

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Does the Alignment tool general come in a Clutch Kit or is it a special tool purchased seperatly?

BearDy89 said:

Does the Alignment tool general come in a Clutch Kit or is it a special tool purchased seperatly?

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i use a 15mm deap soket as a Alignment tool works for me

chris07 said:

i use a 15mm deap soket as a Alignment tool works for me

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Excellent just the kinda of shortcut (scientific tip) i like


Cheers

perfect, il use that then! the universal tool is separate, but makes the job a hell of alot easier, its only like a tenner or sumat.

Karlos28 said:

perfect, il use that then! the universal tool is separate, but makes the job a hell of alot easier, its only like a tenner or sumat.

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Cool, 15mm Socket is cheaper than £10 though as its sat on the bench anyway.

If splitting gearbox and engine then you want to renew the lot, plate, cover, bearing and fork (HD fork or weld a little piece of plate over the back which is all they do anyway). AP and B&B are the same now yes. Valeo are good too. You can fit a heavy duty plate and release bearing if you wish.

A few ways to do it, depends what you have access to, I did it on a 4 post once so I dropped the geabox by lowering it onto an oil barrel, undoing it all, sliding it back and lifting the car off the gearbox.

In answer to your question, it can be done on the drive, there are a few ways to do it, you can take the engine out, this obviously requires an engine lift. Although more things to disconnect it does mean most things are up top and you can do it without taking the floors and things out as you can get to all the nuts on a 300tdi from underside and up top. I have done it both ways and would probably take the engine out again do to a Defender clutch if I was doing it without a pit or lift.

For engine your need to (more or less) drop the exhaust from turbo and tie in place or support with blocks to reduce strain on it. Disconnect about 5 wires in total. Drain cooling system, and disconnect from the engine the relevant pipes, undo the fuel lines then you are onto undoing the gearbox to engine nuts. Get a lift on the engine, undo the mounts and hoick it out. Clutch is now on the back of your engine and the other bits can be done from the engine bay.

Other option is to move gearbox back, undo both props, drop centre section of exhaust, remove tunnel and probably the transfer box linkage so it clears the seat box when you roll it back then it's a case of unbolt and slide it back on jacks with wheels enough that you can get at all the parts to replace. It seems like a lot less parts coming off but remember you are doing all of that on your back with over 100kg of gearbox above you. Helps if you have an engine lift or can make something up to hold the gearbox from above, then you can swing it back, turn it and take it out the door if you want.

I have also taken the seat-box out to remove the gearbox, I was changing the whole box but same process, I wanted to re-panel the seat box sides, replace battery box and paint it etc and I was going to have time waiting for my new gb to arrive so I did it that way, this let me stand above it and pull it off the back with the help of blocks and some straps taking the weight of certain bits. Again a lift would help with this one.

BearDy89 said:

Cool, 15mm Socket is cheaper than £10 though as its sat on the bench anyway.

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The alignment tool is not worth £1 let alone £10, so indeed, use the socket. O even a 1/2" drive extension bar as I used one, just do the cover up so that the plate is caught but can be move a bit, put the socket or the extension bar in and nudge it about till the plate sits in the middle.

discomania said:

If splitting gearbox and engine then you want to renew the lot, plate, cover, bearing and fork (HD fork or weld a little piece of plate over the back which is all they do anyway). AP and B&B are the same now yes. Valeo are good too. You can fit a heavy duty plate and release bearing if you wish.

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Again a lift would help with this one.

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I have no Engine lift so looks like its a day led on my back sliding gearbox back.
Im on 33" tyres and got a set of 1.5' ramps that i can drive the front wheels up onto so it will give me some wiggle room underneath!

Cheers for all the advice/help.

Ill be sure to take some pictures along the way so others can follow.

Sam

Eat lots of porridge between now and then - it's not bad weight wise, but under there it is bloody awkward. A strong friend who you trust would be good.

good luck fella, pics would be nice and useful for me too ;-) im doing it on a td, but id imagine its not for the same. guna change my leaky rear crank oil seal too.