P38A Heated seats

Still a few minor things to fix, finally found the issue with the cruise control so on to the seats.
I had read somewhere on one of the forums that if the drivers seat didn't function then neither would the passengers side, it had given details of how to jump the wires to get the passenger side going. I am sure I am not imagining it but maybe I was...

My passenger side works but the drivers is not, as far as i know they work independently of each other
to fix the element in the none working ones is quite straight forward just a case of getting the leather cover off a soldering a longer piece of wire across the break to stop it going again.

cornishboater said:

Still a few minor things to fix, finally found the issue with the cruise control so on to the seats.
I had read somewhere on one of the forums that if the drivers seat didn't function then neither would the passengers side, it had given details of how to jump the wires to get the passenger side going. I am sure I am not imagining it but maybe I was...

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Driver and passenger side are separate circuits. Individually switchable. So the forums are wrong. But if fuse 2 30amp is blown neither will work.

wammers said:

Driver and passenger side are separate circuits. Individually switchable. So the forums are wrong. But if fuse 2 30amp is blown neither will work.

Click to expand...

The seats are on that? I thought it was just starter solenoid and EAS pump?

Grrrrrr said:

The seats are on that? I thought it was just starter solenoid and EAS pump?

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They are on my copy of RAVE.

The heated seat loop tends to break at the rear of the cushion. BikeTeacherDave did a write up on repairing them. It's worth uprating the heat when you do it. should be in the tech archive

Grrrrrr said:

The seats are on that? I thought it was just starter solenoid and EAS pump?

Click to expand...

Fuse 2 BECM not master fuse 2.

wammers said:

Fuse 2 BECM not master fuse 2.

Click to expand...

Oh yes, the numbering starts again. Stupid idea. Could have used letters for the BECM ones.

As mentioned - they are fed separately between drivers and passenger - so if one doesn't work, the other still should (assuming it's elements are intact).

I think what people are meaning on the forums about jumpering is the seat base/back. The feed goes into the seat base, though the thermostat and back out to the connector. The other connector for the seat back then goes from the seat base connector, through the back element and then to ground - so they are in series. If the base breaks, then the whole circuit is broken and nothing working. People have mentioned about jumpering the base (where the fault usually is) so the back part then gets power and still works.

They aren't hard to repair - I've done a number of them now - just a bit time consuming to take it all apart/rebuild. I would definitely recommend getting a cheap set of hog ring pliers (come in kits on eBay and the likes with hog rings) and then you can just cut/bend the old ones when you take it apart, and put new ones in when rebuilding it all.