Head Bolt HELP!!!!!

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I've re-examined the rave and ermm...

i may have been undoing them in the doing up order instead of the undoing order.. so.. is it possibel the head is distorting into the bolt hence making it impossible to move.. in which case can I tighten them back and do it the right way round.. maybe that will help out..

plus.. I found a blow on the other gasket (track marks on the head and the gasket and fluffy carbon on the piston head) so if it comes to it what about re-torque ing this head down and not changing the gasket???
 
Morning.. just a thought and as i dont know the engine it may not help but could you gring the heah off the bolt and then lift the head off. This may give you room for a stud extractor to get in there.. or a set if bloody great stilsons
 
One last resort method that MIGHT "crack" it loose is a combination of torque and smack both at the same time.

The idea is to apply as much undoing torque as you can, and while holding that torque applied, give the head of the bolt an almighty SMACK with a decent engineer's hammer, say a two-pounder. If it doesn't crack loose the first smack, apply a tad more torque if you can, and smack it a bit harder. Be prepared to have to smack it many times, but do NOT smash it hard enough to wreck the engine!

Don't release the torque if you can manage to hold it on, until the bolt cracks loose.

This job requires some preparation as you need to be able to apply torque the bolt-head and hit the head of the bolt directly, at the same time.

When it does crack loose, do NOT assume it will screw straight out! Be prepared to have to work at it backwards and forwards for a while to get it right out.

CharlesY
 
CharlesY said:
One last resort method that MIGHT "crack" it loose is a combination of torque and smack both at the same time.

The idea is to apply as much undoing torque as you can, and while holding that torque applied, give the head of the bolt an almighty SMACK with a decent engineer's hammer, say a two-pounder. If it doesn't crack loose the first smack, apply a tad more torque if you can, and smack it a bit harder. Be prepared to have to smack it many times, but do NOT smash it hard enough to wreck the engine!

Don't release the torque if you can manage to hold it on, until the bolt cracks loose.

This job requires some preparation as you need to be able to apply torque the bolt-head and hit the head of the bolt directly, at the same time.

When it does crack loose, do NOT assume it will screw straight out! Be prepared to have to work at it backwards and forwards for a while to get it right out.

CharlesY
Click to expand...

i have used the same thing numerouse times myself
if you have a good set of sockets you can do it with a socket and a tommy bar (put a peice of tube on the tommy bar) for more torgue then strike the socket head of the tommy bar easier if you get someone else to apply the torgue (then they dont hit you with the hammer;))
have had wheel nuts done up with a windy gun that have broken sockets (1 did for 3 ) but this way it seems to work much better (not advisable with a woolworths socket set though )
 
well the blow torch I have isn't even warming it up.. the impact driver is not doing anything and extensions on the breaker bar are just rounding the head.. don't think I can get a drill in to drill off the bolt and so I am steeling myself for some interesting replies when i ring round some people tomorrow..
 
mjltigger said:
well the blow torch I have isn't even warming it up.. the impact driver is not doing anything and extensions on the breaker bar are just rounding the head.. don't think I can get a drill in to drill off the bolt and so I am steeling myself for some interesting replies when i ring round some people tomorrow..
Click to expand...

what sort of gas are you using ? - if your on a budget mapp gas (from BnQ etc) will get it more than hot enough

if not how about a cobalt drill, or a small grinding ball on a flexi drive to get the bolt head off - then a stud extractor

did you try getting a large stud extrator on the bolt head ?
 
thanks again for all your ideas.. I have tried everything you list that I have the tools for and can be done on my own...

here is a pic that might help see how hard it is to get anything in there..

I have a chap coming in the morning with a different set of sockets and longer bar and a bit of scaffolding.. £30 an hour for a bit of extra muscle.. I reckon with me leaning on the top of the bar and him pushing that's as much torque as we are gonna get on it.. if that don't work he has a air gun so will see what can be done with that..
 

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cant u just get a peice of scaffolding there everywere and put the socket on it while its still red hot on then use that breaker bar with a peice of scaffolding on it, im sure you can get another pair hands without spending all that
 
it wont get red hot without the aluminum sparking.. tbh even when i was brave and held the flame there well past the point where it seemed the alu was burning it was still cool enough to touch within a few seconds.. and being on my own the scaffolding is no good as the funny angle means i need someone to hold the bar onto the nut while i put torque on it.. hence paying the fella to come round.. he will bring scaffolding and so on plus if that doesn't work he has his air gun..

where do you live to say scaffolding is everywhere lol
 
If you were closer I wouldnt mind giving you a pair of hands to help...
dont you have any mate that would come round to give you a hand?

such a shame having to spend that money...
 
nah.. nearest peeps who would be willing to get their hands dirty are in cornwall, sussex or the midlands.. cheaper to pay this guy by the hour than pay for all the beer and bacon butties it would take to get one of them here anyway..
 
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