Disco 3 (LR3) HDC fault.
- Thread starter Maurand
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Yes I understand what you're on about. But surely at system check the 12.2 Volts should be enough. On the D2 if the battery is low it won't do a system check without leaving some warning lights on. But as soon as I can I'll do what you suggest. Thank you.
sorry for the delay, other more important health checks than the health of the car mine....
Yes I'll try that, but to what end ?
Think you're correct about needing a different reader than the Foxwell which was bought for the D2. Though surprisingly the last time I tried not only did I have the option to check steering angle alignment but it brought up steering column alignment as well for the first time, bizarre. But I'm still not sure if I want to keep the D3 which is what's stopping me buying a Gap. And I don't know of anyone with a Gap and then is VIN locked. Going to see my MOT man tomorrow, he told me he has a 'friend' who does diagnostics on Range Rovers so.....?
I don't have 4x4 on the screen and it won't let me go into another setting like rock crawl, special etc is not available.
Again thank you both for help. I'll certainly come back with the battery voltages and the resistances.
Graham
A lead acid can give full operating voltage, but not enough current to maintain sufficient when cranking. The D3 is a power hog, and an old or week battery simply won't do the job. They discovered this with the D4, so added a second battery, simply to make up the shortfall.
You'll get back over 80% of the purchase cost, when you sell it on, after you've sold the D3.
You'll get back over 80% of the purchase cost, when you sell it on, after you've sold the D3.
WHAT four hundred quid.....?
Go easy for pities sake.....the car already owes me two fifty, a hundred to go and bring it back from France, a hundred and fifty for MOT and new rear brake pipes.....and now I find it needs a new rear wiper blade. Where's it all going to end ?
Okay, seriously I've got to find out if I can find someone to help with a suitable reader tomorrow, if not I'll have to get a Gap IId. But the battery, again you're talking about amperage.......what amps does it need for the start up system check ?
Yes, for starting it needs lots of amps, that I know and understand, and I will check what you suggest asap. In fact I use SLA batteries in audio amplifiers I manufacture, though with those it's internal noise I'm mainly interested in and not just voltage. But tomorrow I'm in hospital on a drip and I'll certainly not be thinking about steering angle sensors.
Again, thank you for your time and all your replies.
I paid £340 for my IID BT when they were on a special price somewhere. I had it 3 years and sold it for £375 as the price had risen in the time I had it. There's a strong market for second hand IID, particularly the BT model, which keeps the price to about 75-80% of the new price.
My D3 consumed about £1500 per year in maintenance and replacement parts in the 3 years I owned it. By the time I sold it, I'd replace all the brake components, all the suspension components, all the belts, all the fluids, and rebuilt both diffs, oh and replaced the propshaft, the steering column, the steering rack, the front discs/pads again, and rebuilt the EPB module and replaced the battery too.
I also fitted 4 new Pirelli Scorpion ATRs and had the wheels black powder coated at the same time, and the windows blacked out too, but that wasn't strictly necessary.
What I wrote was tongue in cheek....I'm very lucky (?) that the car was given to me. In the three to four years my sister owned it cost her (she says) 10.000 but what euros or real money I don't know. A replacement engine, plus all belts etc, new brakes all round and to be honest they're s***e, and any serving she had done. So I'm well aware of costs running a D3. It just happens it's cost me £250 so far and that included a break in France. I'm not complaining just joking.
I just want it sorted, not happy about having to take it to an indy would like to do it myself so,if it means I've got to spend £400 or so on test equipment then I will.....
Be nice to be able to drive it, to be honest be nice to drive anything. Back in isolation after tomorrow's treatment in hospital my immunity will be a minus number with the stuff pumped into me. So no rush, it'll still be sitting here til it gets sorted. But as always thanks for your replies.
I just want it sorted, not happy about having to take it to an indy would like to do it myself so,if it means I've got to spend £400 or so on test equipment then I will.....
Be nice to be able to drive it, to be honest be nice to drive anything. Back in isolation after tomorrow's treatment in hospital my immunity will be a minus number with the stuff pumped into me. So no rush, it'll still be sitting here til it gets sorted. But as always thanks for your replies.
Absolutely. You can't run these big LRs on buttons, so it's best not to try.
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And the more recent and more complex they are the more it all costs.
And the more recent and more complex they are the more it all costs.
Not just in reply to you John, but I'm fully aware of the costs of running a £40K car. Seems as though what I've written has been taken wrongly.
I just don't want to spend £500 on a new reader unless I have to, if I do then I'll get one...
This car has been a problem from just after my sister got it, needed a replacement engine, her garage in France quoted €16,000 minimum, no way, brought back here for the work. Brakes needed work, cost her a rip off €1,500 and they're still crap. When the last of many warning lights came on she'd had enough and asked me if I wanted it.
I jumped at it, not just for the car. I got to have a jolly back in France, got to see sister, got to go shopping (Margret de Canard, Tartiflette cheese etc anyone ?) see the house we lived in for 11years and get that out of my system, (don't ask) see a friend who's wife is very ill and have dinner with the consultant who looked after my health all those years.
Cost of running a £40k car it's not about, spending at this moment in time when we've not been able to earn is what it's about if it's not necessary....
And because of CV-19 I've had very little chance to drive it, so spending £400 on a reader for a car that I don't know I want to keep is stupid in my view right now. Keep it I'll buy a Gap, till then....
Graham
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Fair enough Graham, just going to check if a Foxwel NT pro will do a Disco 3, it does do a disco 2 and is less than half that.
Just checked, both the 520 and the 530 will do a Disco 3, in fact they do them up to 2104 so if I was you i'd give them a look. Even Sierrafery rates them. https://www.foxwelltool.co.uk/whole...MIyNiXxMSJ6gIV5IBQBh3QEgt8EAQYASABEgIK0PD_BwE
Best of luck
John
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Should have said I have a Foxwell Nt pro 520 and am very happy with it for my D2 and D1s. The massive advantage is that it does all, or probably nearly all, LRs and Jaguars. Rather than paying £400 for a tool that will only do one vehicle make and model. It will also do OBD2 for ordinary cars.
John,
Thanks, the Foxwell NT510 I've got does almost everything one would need on a D3 even the SAS but it won't do live data on that so I don't know where it 'thinks' the wheels are pointing if you get my drift. It really does need a Gap iid. But the NT510 is excellent with the D2. Should have left the car where it was....
The IID does all LRs 2005 onwards for code reading, or it did when I had it. The only thing that was VIN locked was programming, although that may now be different. Check with Pat at Gap Diagnostics, he'll tell you the capability of the IID on other LRs. If you buy an IID, then buy say a RR L322, then you only need pay for an additional license (was about £50) for the additional vehicle.
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