P38A Having even more problems now

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how did you check the fusebox? a thorough check means taking the board out of the enclosure.
when I had fusebox problems, one of the 3 screw connectors underneath were loose,, the solder joint had cracked meaning i had intermittent problems
 
I seam to recall Shippers have trouble with a customers car and Marty pointed him in the right direction and it was a trim screw that had caught the wiring loom by the sill.
 
Grrrrrr said:
That might have been it.
Click to expand...

It was the window switch pack wire trapped around the stud for the central cubbybox that was trapped and kept blowing N1 fuse it did blow the BCEM which Callrover fixed...Marty pointed us in the right direction tracing the wires...
 
Hi
I didn't check inside the fusebox, but did remove every fuse looking for any dis-colouring.

Fuse 14
1 Rear Central door locking...…I did have problems with drivers rear super locking, had to smash the motor to get the door to open, the connection block is now disconnected and I now don't have rear central locking. I never had rear light problems when I was sorting this out.
2 Fuel flap solenoid
3 Trailer socket
4 Tailgate central door locking

For a few months, if I need to get in the boot I would put a fuse in then open the boot, but had to it out before driving otherwise it would blow. But at the moment I can't put the fuse in at all.

Fuse 15
1. Courtesy lights...…………………….These turn on when they like
2 Handset receiver...…………………...N/A
3 Load space light
4 Rear wiper
5 Sub woofer
6 Rear audio system amplifiers
 
Grrrrrr said:
On mine the tailgate lock actuator - that sounds like a good place to start
Click to expand...

Agree I would have that stripped down and looked at...in fact Barry had an L322 that main dealer couldn't fix and he sorted it think it kept blowing fuse will ask him...
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi
I didn't check inside the fusebox, but did remove every fuse looking for any dis-colouring.

Fuse 14
1 Rear Central door locking...…I did have problems with drivers rear super locking, had to smash the motor to get the door to open, the connection block is now disconnected and I now don't have rear central locking. I never had rear light problems when I was sorting this out.
2 Fuel flap solenoid
3 Trailer socket
4 Tailgate central door locking

For a few months, if I need to get in the boot I would put a fuse in then open the boot, but had to it out before driving otherwise it would blow. But at the moment I can't put the fuse in at all.

Fuse 15
1. Courtesy lights...…………………….These turn on when they like
2 Handset receiver...…………………...N/A
3 Load space light
4 Rear wiper
5 Sub woofer
6 Rear audio system amplifiers
Click to expand...

Did you not say there is no radio fitted if so I would be checking the redundant wiring...
Also your disconnected doorlock connectors if damp has got in could cause a short as it sounds very much like that is your problem as these are the areas that are supplied by your blown fuses...
 
Just disconnect everything those fuses feed.
Then replace each fuse.
If they still blow then you have wiring issue.
If not one of the items above has a fault.
 
Hi
I think that's a good idea, not sure where to locate everything but at least I will be doing something, I will also look under fuse panel inside the main fuse box.
These fuses aren't connected to my lights problem which is what I really need solving because its MOT time after today.
Didn't anyone think my continuity testing the wires from the Becm outputs of the relevant lights would work.
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi
I think that's a good idea, not sure where to locate everything but at least I will be doing something, I will also look under fuse panel inside the main fuse box.
These fuses aren't connected to my lights problem which is what I really need solving because its MOT time after today.
Didn't anyone think my continuity testing the wires from the Becm outputs of the relevant lights would work.[/QUOTE

If it's lights that's your problem you havn't mentioned starting at them and testing back to BECM for power...you need thin pins to get in behind where wires enter connectors to check for power with your DMM...and dont forget to make sure light switch on,ignition on and battery connected...lol...has been known to forget one of the above...guess how I know...lol
Click to expand...
 
Mark Piercy said:
How do you know? :p
Click to expand...

Last month sorting a brakelight problem connected battery switched on ignition and jammed down brake pedal...nothing at lights...switched on sidelights....nothing...forgot to connect the remote big red battery live switch it was in but not on wasted half an hour checking fuses etc before I noticed...lol
 
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