Have I been driving 2wd for too long????

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
mikey7985 said:
I cant see how a tyre can go faulty in an hour??
Click to expand...

I did some work at Bandvulc tyres in Devon.
Believe me freshly cooked tyres can have defects.
Their way of testing was to inflate to 150% capacity in 1 second, when they pop they really go!
I understand from them that not all manufacturers are so rigorous in their testing.
 
bukko said:
I did some work at Bandvulc tyres in Devon.
Believe me freshly cooked tyres can have defects.
Their way of testing was to inflate to 150% capacity in 1 second, when they pop they really go!
I understand from them that not all manufacturers are so rigorous in their testing.
Click to expand...

Fair enough I suppose I should at least try the spare on each corner first before anything.
 
I have the BMW TD4, Bell supplied VCU with damper and bearings.

Yeah Grayo that's the rubber I was talking about just wondering if it being a used one it might be causing problems.....But surely Bell would know if they were good or not??
 
mikey7985 said:
Yeah Grayo that's the rubber I was talking about just wondering if it being a used one it might be causing problems.....But surely Bell would know if they were good or not??
Click to expand...

Right I'm with you now lol. Personally I would not put a used bearing on my prop. The only way they could have tested the bearing is to have put a couple of fingers through the hole and spin the bearing and feel for a little unevenness when it's spun. I changed my bearings after I had a similar vibration but I also had a droning noise inside the car. As soon as I changed the bearings for the GKN ones everything was back to normal.
 
The bearings themselves are new apparently.....Just pressed into 2nd hand rubbers. I think I am going to get some GKN bearings to see if that sorts it. Any idea where is the cheapest place to get them?
 
If there's the droning noise I would suspect the carrier bearings like you're thinking, but other things to check, are the ujs alright, heat might have been used to separate the props and vcu which could damage the ujs. Also it Isn't summit daft like the prop been nipped in a vice to work on? If they're nipped to hard it can put them out of shape. Try the vehicle with the prop off see if I doesn't vibrate again.
 
mikey7985 said:
The bearings themselves are new apparently.....Just pressed into 2nd hand rubbers. I think I am going to get some GKN bearings to see if that sorts it. Any idea where is the cheapest place to get them?
Click to expand...

You can't press the bearings into a used rubber mount. When the bearings and mount are assembled they are assembled in one go and moulded together, there is no way a bearing can be pressed into the rubber mount.

Give these people a ring for the bearings just make sure you ask for the GKN ones. They were the cheapest place to get them from when I bought mine.

Foundry 4x4 Ltd
 
The 1st new VCU I had fitted (2wd one) was only a couple of weeks ago so I would have thought no heat would have been needed this time at least. The front prop was/is brand new 2 weeks ago the rear is the original. Will have to investigate if they are damaged in any way.
 
Grayo said:
You can't press the bearings into a used rubber mount. When the bearings and mount are assembled they are assembled in one go and moulded together, there is no way a bearing can be pressed into the rubber mount.

Give these people a ring for the bearings just make sure you ask for the GKN ones. They were the cheapest place to get them from when I bought mine.

Foundry 4x4 Ltd
Click to expand...

Roger that Grayo seen them selling on eBay. Why would the guys at Bell tell me otherwise if that's the case. I thought they were too cheap to be any good!!
 
edwardcraney2012 said:
If there's the droning noise I would suspect the carrier bearings like you're thinking, but other things to check, are the ujs alright, heat might have been used to separate the props and vcu which could damage the ujs. Also it Isn't summit daft like the prop been nipped in a vice to work on? If they're nipped to hard it can put them out of shape. Try the vehicle with the prop off see if I doesn't vibrate again.
Click to expand...

There's no need to heat or smash seven sorts of ****e out of the uj's. All you have to do is slacken off the bolt which holds the two parts together then put a cold chisel down behind the bold and hit the chisel this will then start to split the two ends slacken off the bolt a little more and do the same with the chisel. The two parts will split easy.

You don't even have to remove the bolt once the "U" washer has been removed the bolt will go through the hole in the end of the prop and it's the same when putting the two back together leave the bolt in place and just push it through the hole.
 
mikey7985 said:
Roger that Grayo seen them selling on eBay. Why would the guys at Bell tell me otherwise if that's the case. I thought they were too cheap to be any good!!
Click to expand...

Better to give them a ring Mike to make sure it's the GKN bearings you are getting. They do a cheaper bearing as well and don't want you getting the wrong cheaper ones.

Austen from Bell engineering is a member on here so perhaps he can enlighten us on that.
 
Grayo said:
There's no need to heat or smash seven sorts of ****e out of the uj's. All you have to do is slacken off the bolt which holds the two parts together then put a cold chisel down behind the bold and hit the chisel this will then start to split the two ends slacken off the bolt a little more and do the same with the chisel. The two parts will split easy.

You don't even have to remove the bolt once the "U" washer has been removed the bolt will go through the hole in the end of the prop and it's the same when putting the two back together leave the bolt in place and just push it through the hole.
Click to expand...

I've tried all that before works with some of them, others require a bit more persuasion :D. I normally get a pry bar in between the bolt head and uj, I don't hit the uj but the heat won't do it good, (I keep the vcu cool with water though) but aye have seen a couple where they needed heat.
 
edwardcraney2012 said:
I've tried all that before works with some of them, others require a bit more persuasion :D. I normally get a pry bar in between the bolt head and uj, I don't hit the uj but the heat won't do it good, (I keep the vcu cool with water though) but aye have seen a couple where they needed heat.
Click to expand...

Aye you need a good cold chisel with a good tapper (wedge) on the end never failed yet and no heat needed lol
 
Grayo said:
Yep that's the ones but jesus they have gone up in price I only paid £36 for them in February. **** wish I had bought two sets now and kept one as a spare.

They are only about a 20 min drive from me so went and picked them up.
Click to expand...

I think I will call them and see if I can get a better deal off eBay so they have no fees to pay.

Its a pain in the backside because now I have to pay labour and be without the car for another day!!
 
mikey7985 said:
I think I will call them and see if I can get a better deal off eBay so they have no fees to pay.

Its a pain in the backside because now I have to pay labour and be without the car for another day!!
Click to expand...

Make arrangements to come and visit Kalvin & Claire for a weekend and we'll do it in my garage over the pit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Kerlaan
Freelander 1 Propshaft carrier bearings - how long to change them? [SOLVED]
Replies
6
Views
1K
Kerlaan
Kerlaan
Atomician
Fl1 with selectable 4wd?
Replies
2
Views
414
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
B
vibration under load.
Replies
1
Views
645
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
xDParis64
IRD Fail???
2
Replies
25
Views
3K
Alibro
Alibro
N
Rear diff issues
Replies
11
Views
1K
Jimmy1981
J
Back
Top