P38A Has anyone seen my missing volts? ‍

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 4, 2020

2000 Range Rover p38 2.5tdi DHSE.
Why hello my fellow mentally disturbed Land Rover owners! My ungrateful silver cow has recently (well since about 3 weeks ago) decided that batteries aren't allowed to store power. My and @Mark Piercy have checked the output on the alternator and all is good, the hatred of electricity has coincided with the radio discriminating against the tweeter in the passenger side rear door, making it scream in a high pitched fashion! But it still emits the sound of the radio. We have noticed that it does it when the BeCM is buzzing away and when it stops the radio works as it should. When the door is open it drains the battery like it's going out of fashion but when it is locked and inactive, it does nothing, but sometimes does drain it. Although my battery is rated at 720A the tester sais 610A, the battery was provided by the previous "owner". I'm afraid to send the BeCM to a specialist because of the cost of checking it out and rectifying the problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Henry_b · Nov 4, 2020

You have to pin down what is causing the battery to drain down..

A parasitic draw test would be my first port of call.

Is the car going to sleep?

Check for the red glow near the gear lever, best to check at night, it should go to sleep after 2 minutes of inactivity

Oh and that battery isn't good enough for the Diesel, it needs to be a minimum of 1000cca

RangeRoller dt · Nov 5, 2020

May have more than one issue. Until battery is 100% you cant trust the electrical faults they go bit crazy tell lies

Grrrrrr · Nov 5, 2020

Henry_b said:
You have to pin down what is causing the battery to drain down..

A parasitic draw test would be my first port of call.

Is the car going to sleep?

Check for the red glow near the gear lever, best to check at night, it should go to sleep after 2 minutes of inactivity

Oh and that battery isn't good enough for the Diesel, it needs to be a minimum of 1000cca

+1.

Your model got that PITA DSP amp in the boot?

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 6, 2020

Henry_b said:
You have to pin down what is causing the battery to drain down..

A parasitic draw test would be my first port of call.

Is the car going to sleep?

Check for the red glow near the gear lever, best to check at night, it should go to sleep after 2 minutes of inactivity

Oh and that battery isn't good enough for the Diesel, it needs to be a minimum of 1000cca

Yeah the battery is just dead, I went out in it this morning and it only just started but when I got in it just now it died on the first turn over. I'm looking at a Hankook 1000cc battery for it but none are in stock ‍

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 6, 2020

RangeRoller dt said:
May have more than one issue. Until battery is 100% you cant trust the electrical faults they go bit crazy tell lies

Yeah the battery was replaced before last winter the previous owner left the car for 3 weeks and didn't start it. With the cold weather it's just gotten worse

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 6, 2020

Grrrrrr said:
+1.

Your model got that PITA DSP amp in the boot?

Yeah it does

RangeRoller dt · Nov 6, 2020

Funny enough I’ve been eyeing an 1000cc up, bit lower Ah than my current deaded one. I could only order if I bought 2 at a time?

pwood999 · Nov 6, 2020

Buy one of these DC Clamp Meters. Then fake the door & bonnet so the BECM thinks they are closed & locked. This way you can probe for unwanted current drain with them both open. Doors are simply a mater of closing the latch full with the door open. Bonnet is done by unplugging the latch contact.

Then wait for BECM sleep and check Battery cables to see if it really does sleep. Other systems can be done by removing fuses, so they cannot cause a drain. Otherwise, also get one of these so you can check the drain on each fuse in BECM or engine bay fusebox. Same thing could be done with a wire link to bypass the fuse, and then use current clamp to check for drain.

Grrrrrr · Nov 6, 2020

RisforRacingnotReverse said:
Yeah it does

Might be worth unplugging it. Check plugs for green.

Jon Dor · Nov 9, 2020

They were last seen running away with my missing MPG's...

Dippypud · Nov 9, 2020

Might pay to check for cracked/broken wires in the door, might be damp causing a short draining all that lovely juice ..

Mark Piercy · Nov 10, 2020

Did the blocks in the footwell last night... Shït job that is.. Stopped the radio from buzzing.
Big El dug the subwoofer out and there is bugger all behind it inside the rear wing. Is the dsp on the drivers side??

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 26, 2020

I thought it had one (DSP AMP), but upon inspection some cretin has put his dirty mits in there (no not @Mark Piercy) and took the little amp off of the sub, not that it would work mind you as it's got more tape on it than speaker! I don't think it ever had a DSP, it's only the 10 speaker system, I googled it and it was solt mostly on the 17 speaker system. I'm judt looking of a sub amp now

Henry_b · Nov 26, 2020

Rarer than hens teeth the subs for the P38..

My HK system would blow yer ears off, until it broke now it does **** all

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 26, 2020

Henry_b said:
Rarer than hens teeth the subs for the P38..

My HK system would blow yer ears off, until it broke now it does **** all

Haha! Nice! All my other amps work, just need the sub one for some window rattling bass! I can repair the speakers (my dad did his the other week) as they're not that badly damage, the foam has detached from the disk, but all that is for f*** all if I can't get an amp. I looked on google for a replacement and it seems that the door amp is the same as the one I need.

Henry_b · Nov 26, 2020

RisforRacingnotReverse said:
Haha! Nice! All my other amps work, just need the sub one for some window rattling bass! I can repair the speakers (my dad did his the other week) as they're not that badly damage, the foam has detached from the disk, but all that is for f*** all if I can't get an amp. I looked on google for a replacement and it seems that the door amp is the same as the one I need.

Ahh yes, if yours is pre 1999 it'll have the Clarion head unit with the door amps which is a far better system than the later cars with the single AMP next to the woofer.

I'm gonna have to retro fit the system from the older P38 into mine thanks to the HK amp costing roughly £700 2nd hand!

the earlier amps are cheaper,

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 26, 2020

Henry_b said:
Ahh yes, if yours is pre 1999 it'll have the Clarion head unit with the door amps which is a far better system than the later cars with the single AMP next to the woofer.

I'm gonna have to retro fit the system from the older P38 into mine thanks to the HK amp costing roughly £700 2nd hand!

the earlier amps are cheaper,

Nah my dude! It's a 2000, but with a very iffy history of bodge jobs and crappy resprays

Henry_b · Nov 26, 2020

RisforRacingnotReverse said:
Nah my dude! It's a 2000, but with a very iffy history of bodge jobs and crappy resprays

Ahh right sounds like the twin to mine

Amp should be here on the later cars

mine was crispy.

RisforRacingnotReverse · Nov 26, 2020

When I looked behind the sub and the interior trim on my search for the mysterious DSP I didn't find any mounting points for it or any cables for it to plug in to. Only the plug for the small sub amp that bolts onto the side of the sub.

P38A Has anyone seen my missing volts? ‍

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