Handbrake on a Freelander 2

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tightropetom

New Member
Posts
5
I recently bought a 2007 Freelander 2. On test drive I noticed the handbrake was slipping on all but the highest notch (ie the one where you have to break a bicep to pull it up completely!). The dealer assured me the brake would be sorted before I picked it up.

Needless to say it wasn't and on a 30% slope going up over a mountain pass I had a bit of a scary hill start or two. I tested it on lesser slopes (eg 10%) and it was still slipping.

Anyway, I brought it back to the dealer under warrranty and they said they replaced the shoes/discs.

Tested it today near my house and sure enough, it was slipping backwards a little, before coming to rest after a few metres. On facing downhill, it continued to slide forwards (slowly) and would probably continue all the way.

My first question (finally) is: should the handbrake hold, even on the steepest slopes? Or am I expecting too much? My issue is, that on a steep mountain pass, if someone coming downhill cuts you off, and you have to do a hill start, should the handbrake be good enough to prevent sliding back into the car behind you while you take your foot off the brake and put it onto the accelerator to give it a bit of welly so you can get up the hill?

My second question is: is there a 'breaking in' process for new handbrakes?

My final question is: Should I just accept that the handbrake sucks?
 
handbrake should hold it rock solid wherever it is applied, regardless of how steep the slope.

if it rolls a few metres as yours does, it's an MOT failure for sure.

take it back and get it put right.
 
a handbrake doesnt have to be more than about 18% efficent. I think you may be expecting too much.
very few handbrakes will hold you rock solid, but if they have replaced the shoes etc they will take a while to improve
 
its not right bud and you know it....take it back and let them 'try' again but tell them that when they are happy with it you will take it for a test drive with the service manager, i did this (well with the dealer principal actually) and as they still hadn't done it i ended up with his brand new range rover for a few days ;)
 
a handbrake doesnt have to be more than about 18% efficent. I think you may be expecting too much.
very few handbrakes will hold you rock solid, but if they have replaced the shoes etc they will take a while to improve


what a load of old bollocks, every car i have will hold no problem on the steepest hills round here. whats the point of a handbrake that won't hold the rolling weight of the car. :doh:
 
yes storm and no mhm,
at the mo i've got my shogun, citreon berlingo and a pug on the front, all got handbrakes that work spot on.

i'm guessing at the shogun though 'cause i leave it in park and just pull the handbrake on for show:D
 
Update - did the 'bedding in' procedure for the discs and the brake now works on a 25% slope (below Honister pass). Will prob try it on Hardknott later in the week. I just would have thought they'd have done the bedding in while they were servicing it, or at least that they would have told me how to do it myself.
 
yes storm and no mhm,
at the mo i've got my shogun, citreon berlingo and a pug on the front, all got handbrakes that work spot on.

i'm guessing at the shogun though 'cause i leave it in park and just pull the handbrake on for show:D
if you knew what park brake was you would make sure handbrake was okay
 
I just would have thought they'd have done the bedding in while they were servicing it, or at least that they would have told me how to do it myself.

bedding in is the process whereby newly fitted component settle and "bed in" following being fitted, as they reach maximum efficiency.

Particularly with brake pads and shoes, the advice was "The brakes will need bedding in. Avoid sharp or heavy braking for the first couple of hundred miles"

How exactly would they carry this out on a service ? Take it for a protracted test drive I suppose. I'd not be happy at 200 extra miles on my vehicle during the service.
 
bedding in is the process whereby newly fitted component settle and "bed in" following being fitted, as they reach maximum efficiency.

Particularly with brake pads and shoes, the advice was "The brakes will need bedding in. Avoid sharp or heavy braking for the first couple of hundred miles"

How exactly would they carry this out on a service ? Take it for a protracted test drive I suppose. I'd not be happy at 200 extra miles on my vehicle during the service.

There are two possibilities, the second one being more accessible:
1. On a dynamometer: Apply the parking brake lever for approximately 40 seconds, a braking force of 800 Nm must be obtained.
2. On a road test: At approximately 24 mph (40 km/h), apply the parking brake lever until a braking force can be felt. Apply the parking brake lever by one further notch and drive for 400 meters (440 yards).

Freel2.com - View topic - Handbrake Fault
 
well i speak as someone who helps some dealers with some problems and that is that even with bulletins alot dont know what the f--k there doing
 
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