Optimus Prime
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what about satin black exhaust enamel / paint ?
Hammerite?
- Thread starter blackrandomapple
- Start date
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chrissyboy
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Hi all,
In my opinion, its best to avoid paint on the underbody and use a rustproofing wax like Waxoyl or Dinitrol (which is more of a rustproofing grease).
The problem with paint is that if your paint is not successful in holding back the rust (and it certainly won't be if you use exhaust enamel
) what do you do then? In order to re-treat it you have to remove your paint.If the rust starts to come through the Waxoyl coat that you have applied you can just re-apply some more waxoyl and it will soak into the Waxoyl - rejuvenate it - and form a new amalgam.
The other problem with using paint is that unless you get the chassis really clean (very difficult for a diyer) you are painting over a lot of dust and muck and the paint is not going to "wet" the surface properly. So it won't adhere.
Waxoyl was formulated to be used by diyers and will still work well if there is a bit of dust on the surface. One of "Finnegans" advertising boasts use to be that you could even apply it over road dirt but for best results I do not recommend this.
Cheers Chris
Before 'n' After - Classic car rustproofing since 1987
Griffdowg
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plugger...
clivees
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Red oxide and black Hammrite on the axel's
Waxoil on the rest (Inside and out).
Waxoil on the rest (Inside and out).
GRUNT
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Just got a screwfix speshul offers catalogue.........Rust Converter paint 250ml £4.24. item 24280-10.
clivees
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Ashoofack
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I used to use Jenolite on all sorts but came to the conclusion that the stuff is a nightmare. It's just too corrosive; it'll do more damage than good if even just a small amount is left on. To get metal clean I don't think you'll go far wrong with a needle gun or, if you haven't got access to compressed air, a rotary wire brush.
GRUNT
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Dunno might slap some on the axles before I put em on me shiney new chassis. Don't s'pose it can do any harm.
chrissyboy
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Hi all,
Here is some information that I hope you will find useful. I have done a great deal of research into all kinds of anti-corrosive coatings and lots of tests and I do know what I am talking about.
1. Red oxide red oxide is absolutely useless as an anti-corrosive paint. Red oxide is a cheap "decorative" pigment. It has absolutely no anti corrosive action. In years gone by there was a coating called "red lead" which had exactly the same appearance. Red lead was a very effective anti corrosive coating but was very toxic and it has been banned for a long time. In my opinion, manufacturers of red oxide paint are cynically taking advantage of the fact that people had come to associate a red coloured coating with proper preparation of steel. Red oxide primer is likely to have large amounts of calcium carbonate (aka Chalk!) as a filler. Can you imagine anything less likely to make a good anti-corrosive coating than chalk?
2. Jenolite Jenolite is phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid is not very corrosive except to rust which it dissolves. Pickling steel in baths of phosphoric acid has been done for many decades. Phosphated steel is very resistant to corrosion. The problem with using jenolite on the underbody is that you cannot immerse the part you want to treat but have to keep applying it with a brush. It therefore becomes impractical to use it in this way on the undebody on very heavy rust. With using jenolite there is also the problem that the surface will be very acid and this could affect any coating you then put on it. Jenolite do a primer called jenoseel and it would probably be best to use this as well if you are using jenolite. I have not done any tests with jenoseel so I dont know how well it performs.
3. Rust Converters Rust converters in my opinion do not work well. If your rust converter has a milky appearance then it will contain a latex co-polymer. These kind of converters appear to work very well and the rust is turned a nice black colour. However, if you use some rust converter on a rusty plate as a test and then scratch through the converter once it has done its work, you will usually see that the converter has not penetrated through to the seat of the rust. What this means is that if you use if on your Landy underbody, it will appear to do a very good job for about a year. Then it will fail as the rust breaks through again. What is really disastrous is to use this as part of a rustproofing process with Dinitrol because the Dinitrol will not penetrate through the latex. This is one reason why I do not recommend Dinitrol because they actually sell a rust converter for this use!
Cheers Chris
Before 'n' After - Classic car rustproofing since 1987
Here is some information that I hope you will find useful. I have done a great deal of research into all kinds of anti-corrosive coatings and lots of tests and I do know what I am talking about.
1. Red oxide red oxide is absolutely useless as an anti-corrosive paint. Red oxide is a cheap "decorative" pigment. It has absolutely no anti corrosive action. In years gone by there was a coating called "red lead" which had exactly the same appearance. Red lead was a very effective anti corrosive coating but was very toxic and it has been banned for a long time. In my opinion, manufacturers of red oxide paint are cynically taking advantage of the fact that people had come to associate a red coloured coating with proper preparation of steel. Red oxide primer is likely to have large amounts of calcium carbonate (aka Chalk!) as a filler. Can you imagine anything less likely to make a good anti-corrosive coating than chalk?
2. Jenolite Jenolite is phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid is not very corrosive except to rust which it dissolves. Pickling steel in baths of phosphoric acid has been done for many decades. Phosphated steel is very resistant to corrosion. The problem with using jenolite on the underbody is that you cannot immerse the part you want to treat but have to keep applying it with a brush. It therefore becomes impractical to use it in this way on the undebody on very heavy rust. With using jenolite there is also the problem that the surface will be very acid and this could affect any coating you then put on it. Jenolite do a primer called jenoseel and it would probably be best to use this as well if you are using jenolite. I have not done any tests with jenoseel so I dont know how well it performs.
3. Rust Converters Rust converters in my opinion do not work well. If your rust converter has a milky appearance then it will contain a latex co-polymer. These kind of converters appear to work very well and the rust is turned a nice black colour. However, if you use some rust converter on a rusty plate as a test and then scratch through the converter once it has done its work, you will usually see that the converter has not penetrated through to the seat of the rust. What this means is that if you use if on your Landy underbody, it will appear to do a very good job for about a year. Then it will fail as the rust breaks through again. What is really disastrous is to use this as part of a rustproofing process with Dinitrol because the Dinitrol will not penetrate through the latex. This is one reason why I do not recommend Dinitrol because they actually sell a rust converter for this use!
Cheers Chris
Before 'n' After - Classic car rustproofing since 1987
Ashoofack
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still a plugger but usefull stuff none the less.
GRUNT
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So Chrissy Boy what do you recommend? Waxoyl and nowt else?
mondo
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Ahh But his waxoils "SPESHUL " waxoil !
tint like the crap us mere mortals can git
S'magic waxoil is chrissy's
GRUNT
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Wooor it's magic is it cor reeely cor magic waxoil, who sells that then, do yer have ter climb a beanstalk or summat an fight with a giant or summat to get it?
paulb
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So you've all reached a decision then?
chrissyboy
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Hi Grunt,
You got it! You will get much better results for much less effort using Waxoyl than any paint finish.
Cheers Chris
chrissyboy
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Ahh But his waxoils "SPESHUL " waxoil !
tint like the crap us mere mortals can git
S'magic waxoil is chrissy's
Hi Mondo,
You are confusing me with the "Australian Carpetbaggers" in St. Albans who use the phoney Swiss waxoyl. I use the real waxoyl - the same stuff you can get in Halfords. If it was good enough for Allen Forster, the guy who formulated it all those years ago - its good enough for me!
Cheers Chris
mondo
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yella
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not much
mondo
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