Hammerite problems

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KNine

Active Member
Posts
149
Location
Salisbury Plain
I have been removing some rust on the chassis and am struggling with hammerit smooth as a top coat. Rust converter then a coat of red oxide went on fine, but I find the Hammerite smooth very sticky and difficult to brush on without getting streaks. It's almost as if it dryers on the brush a bit after about 20 minutes of work. I also made sure the paint and metal were warm before starting the job. Does anyone know of a top coat that is easier to work with and that will go on top of my first coat of Hammerite?
 
Try letting it down with a bit of Hammerite thinners. Or if you are a cheapskate use a splash of petrol. Hammerite thinners is expensive!

Do not use white spirit or cellulose it just goes lumpy and impossible to use.
As ever - try a test patch first.
 
Try letting it down with a bit of Hammerite thinners. Or if you are a cheapskate use a splash of petrol. Hammerite thinners is expensive!

Do not use white spirit or cellulose it just goes lumpy and impossible to use.
As ever - try a test patch first.

Thanks Yoyo, I was wondering if it could be thinned down, I am pretty sure the tin said it couldn't, but worth a test as you say
 
I've also found smooth hammerite to be a pain recently, even when applied on top of a good coat of red oxide primer. Not sure if there has been some change to composition, or if I'd just forgotten how crap it is.

Wouldn't surprise me if there's some EU legislation to blame somewhere. My drive is overgrown since they outlawed Sodium Chlorate as weedkiller, and I can barely see in my shed anyway since my last 100W bulb blew.
 
I've also found smooth hammerite to be a pain recently, even when applied on top of a good coat of red oxide primer. Not sure if there has been some change to composition, or if I'd just forgotten how crap it is.

Wouldn't surprise me if there's some EU legislation to blame somewhere. My drive is overgrown since they outlawed Sodium Chlorate as weedkiller, and I can barely see in my shed anyway since my last 100W bulb blew.

WTF is the story with lightbulbs?
Brightest I could get in Tesco yesterday was 55W :mad:
 
hammerite is hopeless as a chassis topcoat as it loves to chip and track water, red oxide isnt what it used to be as the good old H&S brigade have outlawed the lead that used to make it a good rustproofer, its now no different to cheap B&Q undercoat, just more expensive.
That said i did my chassis with 6 coats of hammerite on top of a kurusted bare mettaled chassis but then waxoyld to death on top afterwards to protect...

chassisblack by The_Wild_Boar, on Flickr

IMG_1922 by The_Wild_Boar, on Flickr

DSC_3300 by The_Wild_Boar, on Flickr

Cheers Steve
 
Although to be fair, if you put enough coats on thick enough, even my welding can look ok :)
 

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Yes, Hammerite doesn't seem to like red oxide primer any more. It either looks streaky or it gives you a rather uneven looking lumpy surface. These days I only use that combination on bits that don't show. Shame. When I was a youth Hammerite on top of red oxide primer used to be a winning combination.
 
White Spirit is one of the recommended thinners for the Hammerite Smooth ...have a look on their website.

I have thinned it down for spraying and had no problems at all! Linky
 
I tried Hammerite on grey primer that i had sprayed on new steel and again it was all streaky not what i expected, so what would you guys recommend instead ?
 
If you want old fashioned incandescent bulbs of a higher power, search for "rough service bulbs"

Available from Amazon, Maplin, and lots of other places.
 
i was having same issue with mine earlier, not been used for a few months admittedly, so out came homebase own white spirits mixed a drop in and hey presto, its paintable again (dont need much either)
 
just drop the hammerite in the bin, its absolute crap. I had all the same problems topcoating on red oxide. The red oxide wont come off, but the hammerite wasnt worth even applying. will never use again!
 
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