Freelander 2 (LR2) Haldex service did work! UPDATE

I removed the haldex today to give it a proper service, to see if that would stop the juddering when turning from a standing start. The filters were in a terrible state and the oil looked like a mixture of black, dirty oil and nice golden oil? Like it’s been topped up with new without a proper service?

Anyway, I was hopeful that a proper clean and new filter, O rings and fluid, would solve the juddering. It didn’t! But now I’m getting a fault message flash up on the dash, “all terrain system faulty” and “traction reduced”, even though no faults are showing up on my diagnostics tool?
Does anyone have a clue about what might be causing this, as I really don’t know.

What diagnostic equipment are you using? If it's flashing up TR errors, then a code will be stored.

Autel maxdiag

Steviecops said:

Autel maxdiag

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I'd have thought that would tell you the issue.
I've a selection of diagnostic equipment, including JLR SDD, but even my basic Icarsoft I930 gives error codes and descriptions for Haldex related issues.

It's worth checking the fuse, and connectors at the Haldex ECU, and the motor connection too.
Out of interest, did you apply 12 volts to the motor to check it ran?

No, I didn’t do that. Wish I had now. I’ll check the connections on the haldex later today. The fuse is good because I only put it back in yesterday after putting everything back together.

I don’t want to tempt fate, but I think the problem might be sorted out. Here’s what happened.
Yesterday, after refitting the haldex, I kept getting “transmission fault. Traction reduced” pop up on the dash. Then it would say “terrain response not working”. I also got one saying “special systems turned off”. But my diagnostic wasn’t throwing up any faults. I tried another basic code reader and that didn’t throw anything up, either. In fact, it said linking error. When I put my Autel diagnostic back on, that also came up with linking problem. Then all hell broke loose.
my temperature gauge went round to the red, even though the engine wasn’t running, all sorts of warning lights came on and and Engine fault message flashed up on the dash. My fob wouldn’t come out and the stop start button wouldn’t work.

My daughter had the same thing happen on her FL2 just a few weeks ago, so I had an idea what was up. Then my Autel asked if the battery was charged sufficiently. That confirmed my thoughts. When my daughter broke down, the RAC mans told her that they go to loads of freelander 2’s that break down because the battery isn’t 100%. Apparently, these cars put a lot of strain on batteries. So, although the battery looked quite new and the indicator was still very green, I went and bought a new one. Fitted it and went for a drive. So far, there’s no thumping, binding or juddering from the back end, pulling away on lock, or in reverse, and I’ve had no more fault messages on the dash. My thought are, if the haldex isn’t getting enough voltage to work properly, then you’ll get the thudding and juddering, as well as fault messages.

anyone got any thoughts on this? I’m keeping my fingers crossed that my issue is resolved and I’m not being lead to a false sense of security, like you do with land rovers.

The Freelander 2 is very power hungry, and a battery that isn't at it's best will simply cause issues.

So if starting the vehicle gives the traction warnings, then that is the battery, not anything else. It's all to do with the data string on starting. A bad battery causes loss of power to some modules (there are 25 or more) whilst cranking. The drop in power causes missing data packets on one of 5 data buses, (normally the high speed CAN), which results in the warning.

So it sounds like your warnings issue wasn't the Haldex, but the battery.

The Haldex seems to have enjoyed its fluid and filter change, just as mine did.

Yes, although the battery started the car and the health indicator was still green, it obviously wasn’t 100%. From starting, everything would be fine for about a mile, then the faults would start appearing on the dash.
Even then, I’d still get a slight judder on pulling away on lock before the faults showed.
Now, there’s no judder at all and no faults, even after driving several miles.
But, it’s a Land Rover, so let’s see what it does tomorrow. I’m keeping my fingers crossed.

Oh well, the judder is a lot better, but it’s still there sometimes. Had a diag from a mechanic this morning and it came up insufficient data coming from rear diff.

Steviecops said:

Oh well, the judder is a lot better, but it’s still there sometimes. Had a diag from a mechanic this morning and it came up insufficient data coming from rear diff.

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If the Haldex clutch pack has been sticking in the same place for some time, then it might take some time to smooth out the plates again.
The clutch in a Haldex isn't to dissimilar to the clutch on a motorcycle, only in reverse.

I'd give it a few miles to settle down. It might well improve in time.

Thanks, that makes sense. It does seem to be improving. It’s hardly noticeable now, but it still isn’t right. The mechanic said that if it hasn’t been serviced, with the dirty oil and gunk, the pumps start to burn out. I’ll give it a bit more time before doing anything.

The pump does get overworked by thick gunky fluid. The pressure accumulator and control valve can gunk up too, given unpredictable behaviour.

I suspect you've caught it in time, so may well be ok, although the pump motor could fail at some point in the future.

The dealer I bought the car from is sending me a new pump and I’m going to fit it myself. It was a choice of that or waiting a week to get booked in with his mechanic, who I saw today, and going without my car for a day. By having the part delivered and fitting it myself, it’ll be a half an hour job.
Can the pressure valve be cleaned up, or is that non serviceable?

Steviecops said:

By having the part delivered and fitting it myself, it’ll be a half an hour job.

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That's a good result.

Steviecops said:

Can the pressure valve be cleaned up, or is that non serviceable?

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No it's not serviceable, but will be cleaned be the fresh fluid, the fluid itself being cleaned by the filter.

Great stuff!

Nodge68 said:

If the Haldex clutch pack has been sticking in the same place for some time, then it might take some time to smooth out the plates again.
The clutch in a Haldex isn't to dissimilar to the clutch on a motorcycle, only in reverse.

I'd give it a few miles to settle down. It might well improve in time.

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Bang on the money, Nodge! I didn’t fit the new pump and now the car drives perfect. Nice and smooth with no thudding or juddering when pulling away on either lock. Thanks buddy, for your good advice.