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Hi can anyone tell me what model this is ar all?

Just so I can look up the trim, interior, electric windows/sunroof etc?

The owner is away just now which is why I'm not doing the obvious thing and asking them!

I am going to view it tomorrow so would like to know beforehand so I know what to check. It's got "bespoke landrover seat covers" which I take it is code for 40 quid covers from halfords because the seats themselves are shot?

Any advice on bits to check too would also be greatly welcomed


Thank you

Have a read of this https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/car-reviews/land-rover/discovery-series/discovery-series-2-2002-2004/ although there are threads on this site for what to look for if considering buying. Basically make sure all electrical equipment works, air con works, there are no warning lights on the instrument panel, if it has air suspension, that it works like it should, test the Hi-Lo ranges, traction control, ABS and diff lock if you are lucky enough to be looking at a model so equipped. Lift carpets and look for a damp floor. The sunroofs leak for a pastime unless you are very lucky, also look to see if the headlining has been stapled back up! If the lever won't move to the left it is likely to just be a sticky linkage which is fairly easily fixed. Under the bonnet check it is not too leaky with oil, that all levels are correct, Take the cap off the coolant reservoir, run the engine, pinch the pipe and check for bubbles, this is to check for head and head gasket problems. If you can see under the engine cover, look around the exhaust manifold to head joint for signs of blowing and listen for squeaks and blowing noises. A warped headgasket sound slike a squeaky drive-belt bizarrely.Check the history thoroughly. The bloke may well not be going to Greece at all, just not keen on going to a Land Rover garage! I am pretty sure you are looking at a Series 2 Discovery TD5, facelift, i.e. phase 2, possibly auto, (Transmission - other) although better pics of the interior/dash area would give you a better idea of the equipment level. Therefore with slightly more powerful and economical engine. Look on the Gov/uk website under "check MOT history" to get an idea of whether previous owners gave a real monkeys or not, for the mileage it looks pretty straight to me, for the price, mmm, maybe even a bit cheap, but then not 12 months MOT.
Don't knock the seat covers if they have Land Rover tabs on, they fit like a second skin and really protect the seats from dogs, which is why we have them and they are not cheap! Ditto the Land Rover rubber mats. (Don't know why the bloke isn't taking it to Greece, all it ought to need is second-hand LHD headlights!) But DO look at the rear of the chassis, where it dips down, for rust. These beasts rust in the chassis, not so much the bodywork, but it is in Scotland!

Seat covers looked nice, D2 not a bad example.

You best buy it before I get there tomorrow

dieseldog69 said:

Seat covers looked nice, D2 not a bad example.

You best buy it before I get there tomorrow

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Haha I was thinking that as I posted it, alerting others!

Will post some pics tomorrow if I go for it, really excited!

Millertime_9 said:

Haha I was thinking that as I posted it, alerting others!

Will post some pics tomorrow if I go for it, really excited!

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Mind and keep the heid and dinnae go daft...good luck...what Capri you got...had 2.0S German import Dad bought it at 1yr old in 79 then gave to me when he bought a Saab 900...

Millertime_9 said:

Haha I was thinking that as I posted it, alerting others!

Will post some pics tomorrow if I go for it, really excited!

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Just make sure you get under it with a small hammer, if they won't let you, walk awayyyy!

What bits should I be looking to tap?!

Last 2 MOTs, under advisory only said "vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced , chassis corroded 6.1.1.c"

I know I'm maybe asking a daft question as that doesn't sound great but... if it's just advisory then doesn't necessarily mean I should walk away?

Or does it...

Rear quarter of chassis is notorious on D2s mate. The seams on underside of longitudinal members, behind rear spring mounts and inner faces where fuel tank is.

Advisory means either surface rust or more likely the rot is there and starting to take hold imo. It might be saveable by a good clean and appropriate treatment but I'd bet a pound to a piece of shìt you'd find some welding to be done if you looked hard enough. Not a 5 minute job if you do it properly.

Also means it probably hasn't been addressed for at least 2 years if its cropped up 2 years on the bounce

1988smithy said:

Rear quarter of chassis is notorious on D2s mate. The seams on underside of longitudinal members, behind rear spring mounts and inner faces where fuel tank is.

Advisory means either surface rust or more likely the rot is there and starting to take hold imo. It might be saveable by a good clean and appropriate treatment but I'd bet a pound to a piece of shìt you'd find some welding to be done if you looked hard enough. Not a 5 minute job if you do it properly.

Also means it probably hasn't been addressed for at least 2 years if its cropped up 2 years on the bounce

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Yep and that's my worry

I'm hoping to get a bit off the 2k price so it's not going to cost the earth but I don't want to be hit with MOT failure and up to 1k in bills for a chassis fix

Hmm... theres a chance it's just surface I suppose but the fact it mentions structure AND chassis rust doesn't sound promising eh...

Millertime_9 said:

Yep and that's my worry

I'm hoping to get a bit off the 2k price so it's not going to cost the earth but I don't want to be hit with MOT failure and up to 1k in bills for a chassis fix

Hmm... theres a chance it's just surface I suppose but the fact it mentions structure AND chassis rust doesn't sound promising eh...

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Doesn't sound great dude, I would be going to view with eyes wide open. And safety goggles on hopefully it is just surface rust but even then, if you wanna keep it you really wanna be stripping as much as you can, even fuel tank then cleaning it to feck and using proper stuff which ain't cheap

There is good uns out there, you just need to bide your time. But by all means view this 1, it'll give you a benchmark if nothing else

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Offside Rear Fluid leak harmful to the environment or a risk to other road users Diesel leak at fuel filter housing connection (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded Inner wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
• Nearside Front Brake prescribed area is excessively corroded ABS unit mounting area excessively corroded at inner wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
• Rear fog lamp switch inoperative (4.5.3 (a) (ii))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced Chassis corroded (6.1.1 (c) (i))

It was then retested and passed but kept the last one about vehicle and chassis corrosion

Am I kidding myself by thinking it cant be THAT bad if it was only advisory?

Millertime_9 said:

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Offside Rear Fluid leak harmful to the environment or a risk to other road users Diesel leak at fuel filter housing connection (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded Inner wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
• Nearside Front Brake prescribed area is excessively corroded ABS unit mounting area excessively corroded at inner wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
• Rear fog lamp switch inoperative (4.5.3 (a) (ii))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced Chassis corroded (6.1.1 (c) (i))

It was then retested and passed but kept the last one about vehicle and chassis corrosion

Am I kidding myself by thinking it cant be THAT bad if it was only advisory?

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you know where to look...can you take someone with you?...to bounce off and give a second pair of eyes?...

Double check those fails have been repaired properly as well

Millertime_9 said:

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Offside Rear Fluid leak harmful to the environment or a risk to other road users Diesel leak at fuel filter housing connection (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Brake master cylinder/servo mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded Inner wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
• Nearside Front Brake prescribed area is excessively corroded ABS unit mounting area excessively corroded at inner wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
• Rear fog lamp switch inoperative (4.5.3 (a) (ii))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced Chassis corroded (6.1.1 (c) (i))

It was then retested and passed but kept the last one about vehicle and chassis corrosion

Am I kidding myself by thinking it cant be THAT bad if it was only advisory?

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Yeah, well, I've instantly lost interest in buying another rot box.

dieseldog69 said:

Yeah, well, I've instantly lost interest in buying another rot box.

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Good!

Millertime_9 said:

Good!

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Looks like you didn't waste your time joining the forum eh? Sounds like a definite fail next MOT. Powerful bargaining tool, knock of the cost of the chassis repairs. Do you have a welder and are you OK with welding overhead?

Stanleysteamer said:

Looks like you didn't waste your time joining the forum eh? Sounds like a definite fail next MOT. Powerful bargaining tool, knock of the cost of the chassis repairs. Do you have a welder and are you OK with welding overhead?

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Yep, the signs are there eh?

They seem like nice people but I need to factor in the fact a chassis repair could be up to 1k eh?

Millertime_9 said:

Yep, the signs are there eh?

They seem like nice people but I need to factor in the fact a chassis repair could be up to 1k eh?

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Not having seen the chassis, I cannot say how bad it is, but the indications are there that there may be signs, if you see what I mean. The people being nice means absolutely nothing really. I have seen nice people flogging absolute crap, and nice people flogging really good stuff. Try to ensure you shut your ears and open your eyes wide. Then ask questions, keeping your eyes open and of course opening your ears! I have no idea how much the welding will cost as I have never had it done, I usually do it myself, but mine needs doing in exactly the usual places before next MOT but I am not getting it done right now or else I could tell you. Have a search on line you may find a thread or article on how much it costs, or ring a :Land Rover or 4x4 specialist, they'll have a rough idea.

Stanleysteamer said:

Not having seen the chassis, I cannot say how bad it is, but the indications are there that there may be signs, if you see what I mean. The people being nice means absolutely nothing really. I have seen nice people flogging absolute crap, and nice people flogging really good stuff. Try to ensure you shut your ears and open your eyes wide. Then ask questions, keeping your eyes open and of course opening your ears! I have no idea how much the welding will cost as I have never had it done, I usually do it myself, but mine needs doing in exactly the usual places before next MOT but I am not getting it done right now or else I could tell you. Have a search on line you may find a thread or article on how much it costs, or ring a :Land Rover or 4x4 specialist, they'll have a rough idea.

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Thank you Mate

I just dived right in and bought it!

Having looked under it I'm convinced it will need chassis attention at next MOT, but I used that to get it down from 2000 to 1250, so I'm factoring in an expected welding cost of 800 to 1000 with the purchase price

Driving it home was so different to anything I've ever driven, I was sitting at 70 on the motorway but felt about 40! Is that just because I'm not used to such a big and heavy car?