Guess Who's just come back to Daddy!

Glad you're back with a landy.

now i see nice 1!

boydy1989 said:

now i see nice 1!

Click to expand...

Yes yes! I've only just seen your surprised post in that other topic I'm on top of the world. It failed it's MOT for various things, emissions NOT being one of them but all have been put right, that is besides a foook off huge hole in the back of the a-frame cross member which I've got booked in for welding. When that's done it should sail through its test and i'm back on the road 4x4 style!

-Pos

Mr POS - you still not bought a welder? Get yourself a mig £150 will get one that will deal with LR chassis NP. You will be suprised how easy it is to start laying down good strong welds. Then you can go about and blast every bit of rust with some plate.

discomania said:

Mr POS - you still not bought a welder? Get yourself a mig £150 will get one that will deal with LR chassis NP. You will be suprised how easy it is to start laying down good strong welds. Then you can go about and blast every bit of rust with some plate.

Click to expand...

I thought you could get hold of them a little cheaper than that. Aldi were selling some a few months back if I remember rightly. They looked good, but I didn't realise back then that I'd need one as much. It'd be a brilliant thing to have I might have to ask santa and contribute a little It's getting all the settings right, and choosing which welder to go for that's the most complicated bit, there's so many of them. I like the idea of the stick welders as opposed to the wire feed welders.

I'll have a look now
-pos

Stick welder is not suitable for welding the chassis, even with a 2mm or a 1.6mm rod if you can find them; they are also the hardest rods to use.

I have a stick welder that will deal with rods over 4mm, that’s some serious welding, with a 2mm rod in it and some care I can weld 1.2mm plate and not burn holes in it, but that’s taking some real care and a bit of experience.

MIG welder, gave it to my brother a year or two ago, he had NEVER welded in his life, listened to what I told him and he laid down a fairly nice weld, good enough I didn't bother giving him the angle grinder!

Unless you need to do a lot of heavy welding (steel fences, I-beams...) I would not bother with the stick welder yet. You want to work on your LR, MIG is the way, get a proper GAS MIG then if you need to weld outdoors (well when it's windy) you can fit flux cored wire.

MIG is much easier to pick up, easier to get into tight spaces because you're not fighting with a foot long welding rod trying to get it between the gearbox and chassis!

The little Aldi ones may be OK, in fact I am sure they will work but they you have things like duty cycle to worry about. I was welding ALL day yesterday making rock sliders and things and it ran all day and never once did the thermal protection cut in, I reckon the aldi ones would, and its one BIG pain in the neck when you are about to put on a critical tack weld and the fooker shuts down for 20 minutes!

This would be ideal: Clarke Pro 90 MIG Welder - Machine Mart

Or if you are on a tighter budget: Clarke MIG85ENB 'No Gas' MIG Welder - Machine Mart

Right I am off to do some more welding! Where's my suncream?

thats almost true mate, i have a wee stick welder which has just welded lots of my chassis fine, using 2.3mm rods! although i do agree, mig is much easier and much prettier when you've done it

Kinellers pos!!!

Welcome back mate I miss mine too ahah

boydy1989 said:

thats almost true mate, i have a wee stick welder which has just welded lots of my chassis fine, using 2.3mm rods! although i do agree, mig is much easier and much prettier when you've done it

Click to expand...

pretty

boydy1989 said:

thats almost true mate, i have a wee stick welder which has just welded lots of my chassis fine, using 2.3mm rods! although i do agree, mig is much easier and much prettier when you've done it

Click to expand...

You want to try welding a TD5 chassis with 3.2's!

You would blow through both sides!

discomania said:

Stick welder is not suitable for welding the chassis, even with a 2mm or a 1.6mm rod if you can find them; they are also the hardest rods to use.

I have a stick welder that will deal with rods over 4mm, that’s some serious welding, with a 2mm rod in it and some care I can weld 1.2mm plate and not burn holes in it, but that’s taking some real care and a bit of experience.

MIG welder, gave it to my brother a year or two ago, he had NEVER welded in his life, listened to what I told him and he laid down a fairly nice weld, good enough I didn't bother giving him the angle grinder!

Unless you need to do a lot of heavy welding (steel fences, I-beams...) I would not bother with the stick welder yet. You want to work on your LR, MIG is the way, get a proper GAS MIG then if you need to weld outdoors (well when it's windy) you can fit flux cored wire.

MIG is much easier to pick up, easier to get into tight spaces because you're not fighting with a foot long welding rod trying to get it between the gearbox and chassis!

The little Aldi ones may be OK, in fact I am sure they will work but they you have things like duty cycle to worry about. I was welding ALL day yesterday making rock sliders and things and it ran all day and never once did the thermal protection cut in, I reckon the aldi ones would, and its one BIG pain in the neck when you are about to put on a critical tack weld and the fooker shuts down for 20 minutes!

This would be ideal: Clarke Pro 90 MIG Welder - Machine Mart

Or if you are on a tighter budget: Clarke MIG85ENB 'No Gas' MIG Welder - Machine Mart

Right I am off to do some more welding! Where's my suncream?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the priceless info Disco, I'll start a new fund. Should be able to afford one in a few weeks time all being well. It'll be yet another thing that I get bollocked for having about the house! Meh.

TheVengefulElephant said:

Kinellers pos!!!

Welcome back mate I miss mine too ahah

Click to expand...

Where's yours gone!?

pos said:

Where's yours gone!?

Click to expand...

He sold it to Yella.:doh:

ratty said:

He sold it to Yella.:doh:

Click to expand...

Whaaaaat!? How come?

he cudn afford it... besides, he was too short to be able to pose on it, how could people take photos of him looking like a tit on it? (see his sig)

POS arcing is fine on an older chassis, turn the current right down, and see if it sticks or arcs - if it sticks, wind it up a bit - i found that as long as you dont try to hold the arc still for too long its fine, good penetration, strong weld! Once mine is all finished ill get some pics up, theres probaby not far off 12 foot of weld on it though...

They both employ arcing to do there job

discomania said:

They both employ arcing to do there job

Click to expand...

aye they do BUT... mig is generally rectified, so provides a more stable and controlled arc, whereas a plain arc is normally AC, so you get an arc that changes direction lots, giving much more splatter and a less clean weld.

With a mig the feed rate is also pre set rather than set by how steady your hand is

I _love_ my arc welder. I'd love it even more if it were DC, but AC is fine. It's a lot more enjoyable that MIG, and if I can weld 1.6mm box section with a 2mm 6013 stick at 80amps, then it should be pretty damn good for a landy chassis. I find arc (stick) welding easier to be honest. The way you use sticks is much more appealing as well. You're concentrating on the weld pool more than anything. I admit that it'll be more difficult to blow holes in things with a MIG, although that's not to say it's not easy to blow holes in things! One of the good things with sticks is that you can weld if there's a bit of dirt/rust or paint in the way. It's always best to clean it up first, but with a MIG, it has to be literally spotless, or your arc is going to start going where it wants to go rather than where you point it!

if your finding it difficult to blow holes in things with a MIG you need to have a lession from my little brother