grounded again....

slob · Dec 12, 2007

its still quicker, easier, safer and less likey to cause problem if yer solder them. daft's big list of problem are problem that occur during the crimping process it make no mention of problems that crop up during use. nor does it mention vehicles because i suspect its from a site that deals in static installations

A vehicle enviroment is not a friendly place for crimps. the vibrations and changes in temp and humidity make crimps prone to moisture getting into them and that causes problems.

most folk that buy crimpers go fer the ones such as daft posted in an earlier post which do not crimp them properly in the first place all they do is squeeze the end of it . this leads to even more likelyhood of joint failure.

if yer reet good you might manage a crimp joint that will last a while. if yer an average soldererrrerer you have a very good chance of producing a joint that will last the life of the car.

slob · Dec 12, 2007

right fess up daft .. how many cars have you used crimps on? how many have yer soldered.
how many DIY crimps on vehicles have yer seen fall apart?

and how many soldered joint on vehicles have yer seen fall apart?

The Mad Hat Man · Dec 12, 2007

slob said:
right fess up daft .. how many cars have you used crimps on? how many have yer soldered.
how many DIY crimps on vehicles have yer seen fall apart?

and how many soldered joint on vehicles have yer seen fall apart?

loads
most
only occasionally
depends - quite a few

not many - BUT i seen loads of cons with just twisted wires or crimploks and also loadsa satisfactory terminations and the wire has corroded within its insulation.

good termination, adequately insulated is usually satisfactory.
Prob is, as I am sure you will recognize, is Jo P recognizing a satisfactory termination.

slob · Dec 12, 2007

i have serious doubts about the number of diy crimps that ye reckon you've seen fall apart, unless you don't got much to do with vehicle repair. we're not talking about ones dunt by a profession lectricion but ones dune in the drive way by some one armed with a b&q box of assorted crimps and a flexable crimper.

you know when yer open the bonnet and you see these blue things that have bin half cut through cause the bloke abandoned the cheap crimping tool and used his best side cutting pliers.

if a professional armed with a decent crimper and decent terminals is doing the job them ok, but as we're talking about joe bloggs in his drive then the chances are the connection will be crap and fall apart pretty soon.

anyway arm orf out.

if yer crimp em yer taking a big chance, yer better orf soldering them. anyone that has seen the cheap squeezed on terminals will know what i mean when i say they is crap.

Sean · Dec 12, 2007

so cutting half the strands off cos they dunt all fit down the hole in the crimp is a bad idea ?

found that once of a substation that wasnt doing what it was supposed to be doing, a 80mm feed had been bodged into a 30mm lug

doobie · Dec 12, 2007

i have to agree with slob on this point, my perkins engine has been installed with copious use of crimps. half of which i've found have been done with a crimping tool but not done right, some have been squeezed with pliers and others soldered. the soldered joints are solid but i easily pulled out 3 or 4 of the crimp connections today.

i got stranded in a petrol station once cos a wire fell off as well!

got my starter motor working tho

sorted!!

The Mad Hat Man · Dec 12, 2007

see post #15 - a crimp is fine if its dun proper -if you are in any doubt then, yup, soldering will give a better job than a crap crimp jobbie.

BIOSBILL · Dec 12, 2007

Just had a go at soldering to some of those terminals and turns out really well. The connection is very strong, and feels more stable/strong that the crimp connectors!

Think Ill deffinitly be soldering from now on!

Pikey · Dec 12, 2007

I worked in a factory making wring harnesses for Fords and rovers and each teminal had it's own set of crimping tools which folded the crimps to the correct shape (all machine operated) the If they used crimping pliers they had changable jaws to suit the terminal been used. and each batch had a sample tested on a machine for strength. If your gonna use terminal buy the proper ones and don't use the nasty halfords type one.

slob · Dec 12, 2007

redhand said:
I worked in a factory making wring harnesses for Fords and rovers and each teminal had it's own set of crimping tools which folded the crimps to the correct shape (all machine operated) the If they used crimping pliers they had changable jaws to suit the terminal been used. and each batch had a sample tested on a machine for strength. If your gonna use terminal buy the proper ones and don't use the nasty halfords type one.

but as yer sed yer need all the right crimp tools to do the job right or one soldering iron

iannotts · Dec 12, 2007

seems to come back to a rachet crimper being used proper if you have one of those **** flexible things bin it and solder the crimp

doobie · Dec 12, 2007

managed to finally get the lump home again, had a bit of bother bleeding the diesel system (i had the sediment bowl off to get better access to the starter) but after i read the perkins manual and did it properly it fired up like a good tractor! tidied up the mess o wires a bit too so hopefully i'll not be settin fire to any thing for a while!

cheers for all yer advice!

grounded again....

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