Grinding noise need advice asap!!

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surplus

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united states
Hey guys so i'm in quite a pinch... I have a 1995 Range Rover County LWB I took it about a month ago and got my both my front and my rear tires rotated and balanced. On the way home when I would brake I would hear a loud grinding noise. My brakes had been squeaking so I figured my brake pads were worn down and needed to be replaced. While I was waiting for the brake pads to come in the mail, I noticed while driving one day the anti-lock and TC lights had come on. I wasn't sure what it was but I ran the test on it and it gave out the code 2-8 not sure if it is related to the grinding or what but i replaced the brake pads and the lights are still on and the grinding noise is still there. It only happens when i'm braking at speeds above 55 and sometime if i let off the gas at like 65 or so it will still make the noise even when i don't use the brakes at all. It doesn't happen at speed lower than 55 though. I recorded a video of the noise the link will be below. I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff so shame me if you like, but i really cant seem to figure this out and no auto places want to work on I guess because its a land rover and they tell me to take it to the dealer but i don't have the money for that so anything will help a ton! Thanks!

Here's the link:
 
Sounds like disc or bearing collapse. Did you change all the parts? I'm sure you'd have noticed something. Do all the wheels turn easily without roughness when jacked up? Nothing loose near them?
 
All I changed was the brake pads nothing else. Ill jack it up this afternoon and test the wheels. I thought that the bearings would make a noise as the wheels turn not when you brake i could be wrong though.
 
As you brake the loading on the bearings changes slightly, if the bearings are really shot braking can actually move the disc and hence shaft. It is also when there is less noise from other components in the drivetrain meaning other noises are more noticeable. I can't help much further I am afraid as the video won't play for me.

Code 2-8 I think is no voltage to solenoid block, so first check there is fusing, and clean the connectors.
 
As you brake the loading on the bearings changes slightly, if the bearings are really shot braking can actually move the disc and hence shaft. It is also when there is less noise from other components in the drivetrain meaning other noises are more noticeable. I can't help much further I am afraid as the video won't play for me.

Code 2-8 I think is no voltage to solenoid block, so first check there is fusing, and clean the connectors.
Remove the $ from the link and paste it in
ht$tps://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2uyYvuwo04Y
 
Yeah, tried it in youtube directly, I think its my browser and the whole flash/html5 thing. Buffers in Chrome, then doesn't play, and Edge just has a complete hissy fit about it
 
Yeah, tried it in youtube directly, I think its my browser and the whole flash/html5 thing. Buffers in Chrome, then doesn't play, and Edge just has a complete hissy fit about it
Yeah, tried it in youtube directly, I think its my browser and the whole flash/html5 thing. Buffers in Chrome, then doesn't play, and Edge just has a complete hissy fit about it
Do you know where the solenoid would be? Not really sure tbh
 
Hey guys so i'm in quite a pinch... I have a 1995 Range Rover County LWB I took it about a month ago and got my both my front and my rear tires rotated and balanced. On the way home when I would brake I would hear a loud grinding noise. My brakes had been squeaking so I figured my brake pads were worn down and needed to be replaced. While I was waiting for the brake pads to come in the mail, I noticed while driving one day the anti-lock and TC lights had come on. I wasn't sure what it was but I ran the test on it and it gave out the code 2-8 not sure if it is related to the grinding or what but i replaced the brake pads and the lights are still on and the grinding noise is still there. It only happens when i'm braking at speeds above 55 and sometime if i let off the gas at like 65 or so it will still make the noise even when i don't use the brakes at all. It doesn't happen at speed lower than 55 though. I recorded a video of the noise the link will be below. I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff so shame me if you like, but i really cant seem to figure this out and no auto places want to work on I guess because its a land rover and they tell me to take it to the dealer but i don't have the money for that so anything will help a ton! Thanks!

Here's the link:

The little squeak at the end? Doesn't sound too bad.I ahad a bit of a howl on the overrun when me cv joints went
 
The little squeak at the end? Doesn't sound too bad.I ahad a bit of a howl on the overrun when me cv joints went
No the noise starting at like 2 seconds you can hear it when i apply the brakes I disconnected the abs on it and its still making the noise so im still not sure about it
 
Do yall think I should just replace the rotors they are smooth and it doesnt seem like the pads could rub on anything... Or maybe the calipers might be going bad I believe they are the stock ones that came on it. I unplugged the abs ecu which I read would turn off all abs function and it still made the noise and now they noise is happening more often like at slower speeds. I was breaking from 40 today coming into the drive and it happened.
 
Lovely motor.

Not sure about the classic but on the P38 nonormal code reader works. Assume it is the same WABCO system?

Unexplained ABS light on P38 often sign of impending bearing failure. Don't know what sort of job that is on a Classic but rotors are cheaper and quicker although I am not sure why they'd make that noise unless worn below wear limit.
 
That sounds more like something touching the tyre. Mudflap or loose inner wing trim, something like that. Look behind the wheels for something that swings forward as you slow down.
 
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