Grinding noise help !!!!

Frackfree · Sep 4, 2013

Hi All. Just wondered if any of you could help .I have a rubbing/grinding noise coming from my front axle area. When I press the clutch down the noise goes.I took it to my local garage and they said it could be the front hub bearings.I have changed them but the noise is still there.I did it myself as the garage is very busy,can anyone have any suggestions please

jamesmartin · Sep 4, 2013

does it make the noise if stood or only when driving ,and if driving on over run or power or both ,over run could be diff pinion bearings ,power prop uj etc

Frackfree · Sep 4, 2013

When the landy is parked up it is fine,when I drive and accelerate the noise starts,but when I engage the clutch and hold it down the noise stops.Also I found the noise got slightly worse when I put it into 4 wheel drive.

jamesmartin · Sep 4, 2013

Frackfree said:
When the landy is parked up it is fine,when I drive and accelerate the noise starts,but when I engage the clutch and hold it down the noise stops.Also I found the noise got slightly worse when I put it into 4 wheel drive.

its in 4 wheel drive all the time .unless its been modified , do you mean diff lock ie hi/lo lever pushed to left , prop uj would be first thought get under and try for play in prop at same time looking for play at either end ie diff and transfer box

Frackfree · Sep 4, 2013

Yes diff lock,so would that be the reason for the noise ??

Frackfree · Sep 4, 2013

So I will look tomorrow and see if it is the prop, and check for play :blabla:

jamesmartin · Sep 4, 2013

Frackfree said:
Yes diff lock,so would that be the reason for the noise ??

in diff lock on the road you would be winding transmission up and any play or worn uj or bearing would show

Frackfree · Sep 5, 2013

Thx for that,i did try all that but I cant see any problems (I just hope its not the transfer box)i think I need to take it to a reputable Landrover mechanic who can diagnose it for me.Any Suggestions ?? I have taken it to F &R Commercials in the past but found the work very sloppy.Is there any old boy hidden away anywhere who is some kind of oracle and reasonably priced ?? :blabla::blabla:

Station House · Sep 5, 2013

Frackfree said:
Is there any old boy hidden away anywhere who is some kind of oracle and reasonably priced ?? :blabla::blabla:

Yep - that would be James, but he's a bit of a drive for you

Oh, and he's about the same age as me, and I ain't that old

Frackfree · Sep 6, 2013

I just had an idea,if I disconnect both drive shafts from the transfer box and then started her up,put her in gear would that work ?Unsure if there would be oil spurting all over my drive ? I thought that would narrow down the problem,then I would know that the transfer and gearbox where ok ?

blue beasty · Sep 7, 2013

Yes you can but only if you get the grinding noise when not under load. Don't forget to chock the wheels before removing the props.

jamesmartin · Sep 7, 2013

Frackfree said:
I just had an idea,if I disconnect both drive shafts from the transfer box and then started her up,put her in gear would that work ?Unsure if there would be oil spurting all over my drive ? I thought that would narrow down the problem,then I would know that the transfer and gearbox where ok ?

no oil ,but just do one at a time and test drive whilst in difflock

blue beasty · Sep 7, 2013

James is right....one at a time will give more complete answers

Frackfree · Sep 7, 2013

I thought if I had the handbrake on I wouldn't need to chock the wheels? And could you explain ,if I engage the difflock to high or low wouldn't this just tell me if the diff was my problem.But if I didn't engage high or low wouldn't that tell me if it was the gearbox.

Was not sure thx for your help

jamesmartin · Sep 7, 2013

hand brake will only work if rear prop is attached ,we need more info ,removing one prop at a time will narrow, you can try running through gears with transfer box in neutral

blue beasty · Sep 7, 2013

you have a transmission parking brake, removing the props=no brake.

By doing it one at a time you can test under different load conditions, overrun etc.

Frackfree · Sep 7, 2013

So if I remove the rear one it will have to be on level ground(my drives on a slope).
I will remove the front one first, test drive it and see what happens ?

Excuse my terminology but if there is no noise would it be either

A Need a new front drive shaft

B The gearing on the connection between the drive shaft and front axle

jamesmartin · Sep 7, 2013

Frackfree said:
So if I remove the rear one it will have to be on level ground(my drives on a slope).
I will remove the front one first, test drive it and see what happens ?

Excuse my terminology but if there is no noise would it be either

A Need a new front drive shaft

B The gearing on the connection between the drive shaft and front axle

not if you chock wheels ,hand brake will act on front prop and wheels if center diff lock is applied,but you will need handbrake off and one wheel on which ever axle prop is been removed from jacked up to enable you to turn prop to access nuts ,removing prop reduces power going through which ever axle reducing load through worn part should make noise less

Frackfree · Sep 7, 2013

I got the front shaft off,loads of wear and play.But I cant get the bolts out next to the diff.Can I leave there to test drive or can I remove the large lock nut holding the flange in place?

blue beasty · Sep 7, 2013

NO! You need to be clearer. Do you mean you've disconected the front prop from the transfer box but can't undo the 4 bolts connecting it to the diff drive flange?

Grinding noise help !!!!

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