Glowplug/Heater Plugs duff same one breaking ?

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ER1C

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Cheshire
I had traditional glow plugs but they were burning out. Usually on Cylinder #2 both the odd other one went. After going through about 8 I fitted the upgrade kit and now see Cylinder 2 is blackened and the light isn't working again... Amy thoughts ?
 
Are they early serially wired or parallel? Could they be wired incorrectly?
Can't think what would burn them out other than exess voltage or intermittent connection.

Also oem or pattern?
 
I had traditional glow plugs but they were burning out. Usually on Cylinder #2 both the odd other one went. After going through about 8 I fitted the upgrade kit and now see Cylinder 2 is blackened and the light isn't working again... Amy thoughts ?

if upgrade is parallel then how did your wire the light up?

give a pic/description of wiring
 
I wired them as per the instructions.... Postive from output of resistor to plug #2, then wire from that to plug #1, then another wire from that to #3 and in turn #4. There is no way to bugger them up really and the negative is the body with the upgrade.

So the light is just as it was untouched.
 
Modern ones usually require 12V the resistor should not be in circuit.
You can couple the light to the glow plugs to show they are getting a supply but it will not prove they are heating.
Try putting 12V on the one that is black out of the engine to see if it glows loads of videos on youtube to show how to test.
 
I wired them as per the instructions.... Postive from output of resistor to plug #2, then wire from that to plug #1, then another wire from that to #3 and in turn #4. There is no way to bugger them up really and the negative is the body with the upgrade.

So the light is just as it was untouched.

pigtails are low voltage. the ballast is a resister and reduces the voltage.

the upgrade kit is 12v. you need to remove the ballast to get them to work properly. however, you lose the functionality of the glow light.
probably to keep original lamp behaviour. with pigtails as the resistance increases (glows get hot) the bulb gets brighter, so you know when they are hot.

when removing the ballast the easiest way is to connect the lamp to the glows power and the other end to earth; so the light comes on when the glows are heating up.. it gives no indication of the plugs heat state.

btw change the bulb to 12v if you do the above
 
If you put the bulb so it is fed via the old resistor you might be able to see a change in light output as typically modern glow plugs have a double filament and are self regulating so current to all four usually about 40A initially then drops off as glow plug heats so the voltage will also change a little depending on the resistance of your feed wire.
 
If you put the bulb so it is fed via the old resistor you might be able to see a change in light output as typically modern glow plugs have a double filament and are self regulating so current to all four usually about 40A initially then drops off as glow plug heats so the voltage will also change a little depending on the resistance of your feed wire.

thinking about it, it's the ballast getting hot and becoming more resistant that makes the light glow.


The upgrade kit clearly is designed for keeping the resistor in the loop as stated.

use your noggin.

pigtails are around 1.5v each in series. 4*1.5 = 6v. So the ballast reduces the voltage down to 6v.

your upgrades are 11/12v in parallel, yes?

if you give them 6v they'll take forever to heat up.. if optimally at all. they need the 11/12v as they are rated for.
 
Anyway back to the original question perhaps.. lets not the facts get in the way... plugs are working as designed and vehicle starts but number #2 always seems to have issues and looks burnt..... Could there be an old pig tail in there causing issues ? or just a coincidence
 
Could be you are right about remnants in combustion chamber, its a problem with model plane glowplug engines. [plug blows,you put a new one in and that blows very soon due to bits of original one floating about in engine] You could try running engine without that plug in to blow it clear,put a heavy cloth over to catch anything, Take care.cheers.
 
Eric
Been thinking about this one and would like to point out that if the resistor needs to be in to reduce the voltage to protect the new style of glow plugs then when one fails the rest will soon fail afterwards.
As the volt drop across the resistor is dependent on the current through the resistor so when i fails the current falls and the voltage will rise putting higher current through the rest of the glow plugs and burn them out..
 
Ta mate, I tried turning it over with the plug out to pop out any crap before but nothing.... I was reading a long article detailing how exhaust pressure would clear anything. I have even been in there with a magnet etc.....
 
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