Giving an old S3 army girl a new lease of life

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
How does the engine run? If it's OK then I would leave it alone for now. You could get into whole lot more expense and time. Personally I'd replace the rear crank seal whilst the engine is out and fit a new clutch, engine mounts etc. perhaps considering seeing the engine as a separate project for the future, assuming it runs ok for now.
Others may best be able to advise on lump removal but for sure you're going to need a crane of some sorts
 
I suggest you clean it down in place and get it running 1st .
Once clean you should be able to detect any oil leaks ,unusal noises exhaust smoke level ,then if in doubt about engine post a video of it running and people can comment.
With a bare chassis you can easily strip head off and examine top end ,bores etc and removing sump to check bigends without lifting it all out
 
Still undecided about taking the engine lump out............
However, finally approached a more pressing issue this weekend: the footwell!!!

Cleaned back the top and looks fine!



Shame I can't say the same for the bottom half!



I've ordered some replacements and now I've got to decide; do I get some kit and do a crash course in welding or do I look out for a mobile welder in North Suffolk??
 
IMO do a crash course in welding, will be cheaper in the long run and you can always fix it yourself/earn beer tokens welding for mates (cars, gates, all sorts)
 
flat said:
IMO do a crash course in welding, will be cheaper in the long run and you can always fix it yourself/earn beer tokens welding for mates (cars, gates, all sorts)
Click to expand...

Think I'll go down that route. I need to do both footwells and a bit on the dumb irons, as well as anything hidden under the tub. By the time I pay someone to do it will be costing me more than the £250 to buy some kit and having a go myself!!
 
As there is no structural components ie steering / brakes on passenger side you can probably repair that by rivetting new plate in place.
Drivers side looks to have a few years life in it treat with some curust and give it a good paint job and it will last.
 
Started off a bit wet today so got some jobs done in the garage.
Cleaned the brake master cylinder:

Sorted out the clutch.

And gave the servo a new coat of paint.

I even had the chance to wash down and polish my seats!!
 
Then the rain stopped and I could go out and play! Decided to take the sides and roof off as I'm getting close to taking the tub off.

With the roof off I got a brighter view of inside the cab.

Only a few screws and bolts, so I might as well take some more bits off to clean down and repaint.




And I discovered a gearbox!
 
I've got lots of bits of filler all over my bulkhead. But when I clean it back there is no rust or damage?! Was a previous owner over cautious or did the military have a habit of daubing filler everywhere?

 
davebeccles said:
I've got lots of bits of filler all over my bulkhead. But when I clean it back there is no rust or damage?! Was a previous owner over cautious or did the military have a habit of daubing filler everywhere?

Click to expand...

i think you will find thats actually seam sealer not filler probably used at the factory to stop rust forming in between the panels ;)
 
Had a good afternoon trying to strip a bit more back. Tried to get the bulkhead off, easier said than done.
Got the retaining plate off first.

Then got the nut off the big holding bolt.

Removed all the bits still connected including the brake pipes.

Got one side off but the other was being stubborn.

Eventually it came off.

Now I can start on filling them holes.

Looks even more like a tractor now.
 
Had a spot of lunch and carried on.
Decided to have a go at removing the tub. Rather than do it all in one go I thought that I'd take it off bit by bit.
So I started here.

Got the capping off.

And all down the sides.


Now for this weeks big question:

I keep taking all these rivets out but......... are they a particular type and do I need a particular tool to replace them????:confused:
 
Lights then came out.

Rusty plate stopping me getting to the lights.

Exposed wiring.

Almost clear.

Everything off, including paint and filler, exposing quite a large rip in the metal work.

Looking cleaner but still not sure how to get it off!!!

OK, it's now as free as I can make it but it still won't shift. Where else is it fixed or will it only move when the rest of the tub moves?
 
Land Raver said:
I think they are 4.6mm rivets.
Replaced all my cappings, simple enough job but would recommend getting a decent quality heavy duty pop rivet gun.
Click to expand...

definetly get this type of riveter for putting them back on
41bDMNIYgRL._SY450_.jpg


the hand rivet type is going to destroy your hands and make you swear
5556.jpg


or if you have a compressor you could get an air riveter
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top