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I'll up the bidding to 20 sovs AND a pair of roller skates
Getting Gwen the Mini to Run.
- Thread starter DanClarke
- Start date
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- Posts
- 16,734
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
Hi folks, here are some pictures of the engine bay and the "bits" that refuse to work happily together.
First the coil and its wiring. The grey tape bundle is covering a M/F spade terminal connection from the LT side to the wiring loom (I assume its the Rev counter input pulse).
The green and black wires from the Dizzy are on opposite sides of the LT side.
The this red wire is the incoming 12V to the LT side.
Here is the Carb, the vac-line port to a dizzy is blocked off, and I have capped the open pipe where the crankcase breather exit woul normally have been connected.
The piston in the carb can be raised at a slowed resisting rate (damper & oil) and falls similarly.
And here are the poor plugs..... Note the difference between Plug 1 (right) and the others.
I have no idea why 2 & 3 are more oily on the threads than the other two. ??? Is this indicative of a big problem?
First the coil and its wiring. The grey tape bundle is covering a M/F spade terminal connection from the LT side to the wiring loom (I assume its the Rev counter input pulse).
The green and black wires from the Dizzy are on opposite sides of the LT side.
The this red wire is the incoming 12V to the LT side.
Here is the Carb, the vac-line port to a dizzy is blocked off, and I have capped the open pipe where the crankcase breather exit woul normally have been connected.
The piston in the carb can be raised at a slowed resisting rate (damper & oil) and falls similarly.
And here are the poor plugs..... Note the difference between Plug 1 (right) and the others.
I have no idea why 2 & 3 are more oily on the threads than the other two. ??? Is this indicative of a big problem?
Last edited:
- Posts
- 16,734
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
It is freezing out there, so I am going to warm up while I scrub the plugs with brake cleaner and her toothbrush (she won't mind I am sure).
Very nice
I'd clean plugs up, set gaps and swap em around to see if it's the same
Gaps look different but maybe that's the photo
You need the vac advance pipe on or it will drink fuel when you get it running.
Also need to cover bare wires/connectors or it'll run rough when damp
Good luck getting it running
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- The Wooly Witch
Far too many crimped extenders and tape for my liking ...
Does the SU have a pip underneath the bell that when you push it up lifts the piston slightly ? If so does the piston drop with a good snap ?
- Posts
- 16,734
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
I cannot find a lifting pin on this SU model but as the air-cleaner is off and I can reach in I am able to lift the piston clear of the bridge (before any resistance kicks in) and it drops back smartly with an audible "click".
- Posts
- 68,916
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
I cannot find a lifting pin on this SU model but as the air-cleaner is off and I can reach in I am able to lift the piston clear of the bridge (before any resistance kicks in) and it drops back smartly with an audible "click".
Good stuff
JimS
Well-Known Member
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Is the dizzy 180 degree out, any spitting back through the carbs
- Posts
- 16,734
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
Not decent one's yet I am afraid. The cap is held on with screws not spring-clips; to get at the screws I will have to take the front gorilla off the car I think. I will see if I can find a pacifying banana.
The plastic box of tricks in the side wall of the dizzy is the smart/advance/retard electronics stuff I think. I cannot read any tradenames/marks on it for the angles I can see clearly with these old eyes. Sorry. I will see if I can get the grille off later today (weather permitting) or tomorrow (same deal). Thanks for looking/helping.
- Posts
- 45,480
- Location
- East Dorset
I know that method too and honestly I'd trust it more than a lamp flickering on and off.Now if you have points and know someone who smokes roll ups there's another method
A mate of mine who worked on powerful bikes used it all the time.
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- Benfleet, Essex
No, it was running (very badly) but running. I think it is a mix of bad carb settings and appalling timing settings.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
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- heathrow
The carb is an hif44 and the dizzy is later electronic one, looks to me its had a mg metro 1275 dropped in
- Posts
- 45,480
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- East Dorset
If that was the case it wouldn't start and run at all, but we know that it has done.
- Posts
- 45,480
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- East Dorset
... which what I did and is why I am so peed off I cannot help more, as I gave both books (Haynes), and various other notes I had about things I did when I made the change, to my grandson who is in Cyprus with the RAF now.
Grrrr!
- Posts
- 45,480
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- East Dorset
I have a funny feeling that pink wire may be a ballast resistor, but I may be wrong, it is years since I did this job!Not decent one's yet I am afraid. The cap is held on with screws not spring-clips; to get at the screws I will have to take the front gorilla off the car I think. I will see if I can find a pacifying banana.
The plastic box of tricks in the side wall of the dizzy is the smart/advance/retard electronics stuff I think. I cannot read any tradenames/marks on it for the angles I can see clearly with these old eyes. Sorry. I will see if I can get the grille off later today (weather permitting) or tomorrow (same deal). Thanks for looking/helping.
View attachment 333456
I'm not even sure it is needed with electronic ignition.
I'm also pretty sure that the advance/retard business you will find is still controlled by springs. The box of tricks being simply electronic ignition.
If you really believe the ignition is miles out just check the static timing, if it's OK then don't worry about it until you have sorted out fuelling.
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- 5,566
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- South Bucks
I think It was Stanley who said about a can of petrol directly fed into the carb.
Make sure it's fresh fuel, this modern stuff goes off quickly.
Make sure it's fresh fuel, this modern stuff goes off quickly.
- Posts
- 5,566
- Location
- South Bucks
You said you won the car, did it come directly from UK Minis with all those taped wires.
Was it running well when you got it, how long has the car been sitting.
Was it running well when you got it, how long has the car been sitting.
- Posts
- 45,480
- Location
- East Dorset
More likely than not to be leaky valve seals. They can be changed without taking the head off but it is a bit fiddly.
I bought a special valve spring compressor to do the job. If I can I'll put up a link, if I can find one.
Once you get it running you can get it warm and do a compression test to eliminate bore wear, head gasket problems etc.
- Posts
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- Location
- East Dorset
and E5 not E10
