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I'd ignore LPG until everything else on the engine is sorted, you'll just chase your tail
P38A Getting fed up already (I think)... HELP!
- Thread starter Moosevan
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+1 on ignoring LPG until you sort petrol running. One thing to check for either single or multipoint is where the LPG injector pipe(s) are installed to the inlet manifold. Make sure these are not allowing air into the engine when LPG is switched off. Google for "finding intake air leaks". Same process for any engine.
High tickover is most probably either Idle Control Valve or dirty intake tract especially inside the throttle body. Best to take it off & thoroughly clean all the crud out. (I had similar high idle few years ago, so cleaned MAF, Intake pipe, Throttle Body, and Plenum chamber. Been smooth ever since.)
As said above, check the O2 sensors are switching from 0V to 5V while running. Generic OBD reader should show the values. The 4-pin O2 sensor connectors either side of the block tend to get oily so clean these as well.
High tickover is most probably either Idle Control Valve or dirty intake tract especially inside the throttle body. Best to take it off & thoroughly clean all the crud out. (I had similar high idle few years ago, so cleaned MAF, Intake pipe, Throttle Body, and Plenum chamber. Been smooth ever since.)
As said above, check the O2 sensors are switching from 0V to 5V while running. Generic OBD reader should show the values. The 4-pin O2 sensor connectors either side of the block tend to get oily so clean these as well.
I am, thanks for the reminder.
Anyone able to advise ref diagnostics?
We can handle pretty much anything mechanical in the family without any issues - it's the knowing which components are stuffed which is now the issue & I've just been told to expect around £100 to plug in to a local LR garage's diagnostics at £80/hr plus vat with a minimum 1 hour charge.
Considering I usually play with old Chevy & Mopar V8's - normally needing a bigger hammer is the tech limits; I haven't had to seek diagnostic computery stuff in the last 15+ years, so I'm slightly out of touch with prices.
TBH, I'm getting tempted to throw a Carbed 350 Chevy or 360 Chrysler in here if I can't figure it out in a straightforward manner.
I don't want to simply be chasing problem after developing problem - especially when my son's best mate now wants the truck off me as he fell in love with it the first time he drove it!
My standards mean that it either has to be 'right' when it's sold, OR it has to be at an agreed discount to take into account any work needed as I WON'T rip someone off, even if I'm the loser financially (although I would like to minimise my costs/losses if possible).
Thanks for this - have given a dosing of easy start all over outside of motor in appropriate places (no rev changes - should be no air leaks). Multiport LPG & all pipework is good/sealed.
Pulling the intake & ICV / MAF for cleaning this afternoon - have plenty of solvent, so hopefully some results here. Think I need to get a better OBD reaader.
As I said above in reply to kermit_rr:
"
Anyone able to advise ref diagnostics around South Herefordshire / Monmouthshire?
We can handle pretty much anything mechanical in the family without any issues - it's the knowing which components are stuffed which is now the issue & I've just been told to expect around £100 to plug in to a local LR garage's diagnostics at £80/hr plus vat with a minimum 1 hour charge.
Considering I usually play with old Chevy & Mopar V8's - normally needing a bigger hammer is the tech limits; I haven't had to seek diagnostic computery stuff in the last 15+ years, so I'm slightly out of touch with prices.
TBH, I'm getting tempted to throw a Carbed 350 Chevy or 360 Chrysler in here if I can't figure it out in a straightforward manner.
I don't want to simply be chasing problem after developing problem - especially when my son's best mate now wants the truck off me as he fell in love with it the first time he drove it!
My standards mean that it either has to be 'right' when it's sold, OR it has to be at an agreed discount to take into account any work needed as I WON'T rip someone off, even if I'm the loser financially (although I would like to minimise my costs/losses if possible)."
Sorry all, this one is becoming a Norse Saga...
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While it's a nice idea, throwing a different engine in a p38 sounds like a world of pain
Not too fussed with engine swaps...
We have a 57 Chevy here with a twin-turbo Lexus LS400, a custom hot rod race car with a V12 Jag motor (dual 750 Holley Carbs on home designed & built Hi Rise intake manifolds), a '39 Packard that's getting a V12 Jag & custom tube chassis (probably going to be supercharged this time), a '39 Packard being built on a Dodge truck chassis with dual compound turbo setup and air-ride (all designed and built here)
AND several others in process with 2, 3 and 4 wheels...
Weren't the first Overfinch motors 350 Chevy drop-ins?
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its not just the engine though, theres so much inter-dependency, engine gearbox abs/tc etc even the dash wont do much without much pain
the core vehicle
I do appreciate this; however, if the issue is either modification - or a scrapped vehicle, then comprehensive alterations it will have to be. The young man who's hoping to have the truck off me wants it original ideally as his truck is mechanically sound (other than the current issues which have hit in the last few weeks) and bodily rust-free (usual suspects are NOT corroded) and it warrants saving.
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Nanocom if you are keeping the car. Check LZIR map and there might be a member close by who can help.
EDIT: just read further down and realise Paul has already checked.
Much easier to fix the current engine. They're generally faily reliable apart from chewing through head gaskets, the occasional dropped liner and worn cams / lifters.
You can drop an LS1 or LS2 in it but is isn't simple. On the GEMS even the aircon is tied in so you need to trick that with an extra relay. If you look on RR.net someone did it. Not many have bothered replicating the act but if you have the time and money then anything is possible.
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Interceptorxj
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'Rotors' 'truck' Is you a septic tank or have you just forgotten how to speak the Queen's English like what I do!
Spent too many years in & out of The Colonies... Some has rubbed off even though I tried to eddicate them when I could!
Besides, truck is about right for something with live axles, innit?
tomcat59alan
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Gentleman's Carriage please unless it's been bastardised and put on coils then it's a truck
Gentleman's Carriage please unless it's been bastardised and put on coils then it's a truck
Flossie
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^^^^ this needs more 'likes' , brilliantGentleman's Carriage please unless it's been bastardised and put on coils then it's a truck
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Here hereGentleman's Carriage please unless it's been bastardised and put on coils then it's a truck
Dealer has taken relevant details and sent to LR. Hopefully I get a call tomorrow with EKA data. Good news though; I actually found the original service and recall book - it actually has an annual stamped history up until about 14k miles ago (& all from 'proper' businesses)! Surprisingly positive in a small way. Also showing dates of recalls etc... Only shame is the staples are in the front cover for the various code cards - unfortunately no codes
. Also showing dates of recalls etc... Only shame is the staples are in the front cover for the various code cards - unfortunately no codes tomcat59alan
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I don't suppose the previous owner has them?Dealer has taken relevant details and sent to LR. Hopefully I get a call tomorrow with EKA data. Good news though; I actually found the original service and recall book - it actually has an annual stamped history up until about 14k miles ago (& all from 'proper' businesses)! Surprisingly positive in a small way
Flossie
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My handbook has all the cards still in place but the dealer only put the radio code in, no eka.Dealer has taken relevant details and sent to LR. Hopefully I get a call tomorrow with EKA data. Good news though; I actually found the original service and recall book - it actually has an annual stamped history up until about 14k miles ago (& all from 'proper' businesses)! Surprisingly positive in a small way
I can disconnect my battery and the alarm doesn't go off and the radio doesn't lose memory. It's probably been disabled if that's possible, I think it is, and I have nanocom but not sure how to check that. Only just got her on the road after purchasing her as a project having stood 4 yrs unloved, so for now just enjoying her rather than fixing something that doesn't appear broke
Nope. Already checked. He only ever had one key also...
